Gene

Possibly a split in the rubber hose in the tank? You are hearing a small amount of fuel leaking at high pressure? Gene

Hi Jeep Driver, Thanks so much for thinking of me. Yet another example of why this is the best group of people around. However… ***Major wimping out alert so be warned***… I don't see this happening anytime soon. Too much of "life getting in the way", time and money both very limited now. The next year includes two college tuitions, a wedding coming up in about a year, and the possibility of having to replace my wife's car… So I don't see a new Comanche in my future soon. But it does look like a steal at that price. Thanks again for thinking of me. Gene

Hi Virginia, I think you would have little to lose by replacing the master cylinder. Much easier and cheaper. If it does not fix the problem you are not out much. Good luck! Gene

http://comancheclub.com/topic/53309-carpet-question/ might help. Gene

I suspect this is an problem with the master, not the slave. If the slave were leaking, it would leak externally, and you would lose fluid. If a seal on the master were bad, the fluid could "leak" internally, causing the symptoms you are experiencing, without losing fluid. Gene

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/research-guides/10-drool-worthy-new-high-performance-trucks/ss-BBD2wof?li=BBnb4R5#image=9 Scroll through if the right page does not display. Happy 4th to all! Gene

I think this thread is in the running for most posts in the least period of time! :rotf: :rotf: Gene

Hi Goose, You might want to search through the forums. There are many, many causes for oil leaks, and they all look like it's coming from rear main seal… Cruisers tip may be helpful http://cruiser54.com/?p=96 Good luck! Gene

Hi Sam, About 10 years ago, the clutch hydraulic hose on my 88 4.0 started leaking. If I recall correctly, after changing the hose, I was actually able to gravity bleed it. I installed the new hose, opened the bleeder valve, wide open, fluid started flowing out, followed by air bubbles, followed by more fluid. I'm pretty sure that was sufficient for bleeding. Good luck! Gene

Not much better. The long bed still isn't 8 feet inside, so you still can't put up the tailgate with 4x8 sheets in it. And there still isn't 4 feet clear between the wheel arches, so you still can't lay the panels flat on the floor. Hi Eagle, Yes, if I had to transport construction materials daily, a full size pickup would be much better. For occasionally carrying 2X4X8' or a few sheets of plywood or drywall, the 7' bed does pretty well. We also have (my son is using it) a Chevy S10 with a 6' bed. Even carrying 2X4X8' becomes an adventure with a bed that short! Gene

Hi everyone, A few more pics in this article, but little useful information http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/autos-trucks/2019-jeep-wrangler-pickup-everything-we-know/ar-BBCFT9n?li=BBnbfcL At least it looks like there might be a two door model available. Gene

Hi Don, Thanks for the thought. The harmonic balancer is relatively new, probably no more than 20,000 miles on it. I'll take a look at it anyway. Thanks. Gene

Hi everyone, This has nothing to do with anything jeep, sorry about that… Wondering if I could have the thoughts of the collective wisdom of this board about another vehicle. We also have a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, 3.8 V6, automatic, 147,000 miles. It has an irregular ticking noise. It is noticeable at idle, when engine speed is increased it stays about the same intensity, or perhaps get slightly softer. What's puzzling me is that it is totally irregular. It will be tick tick… tick…… Tick tick tick… Tick and so forth. It seems too irregular and slow to be valvetrain. Certainly too slow to be a rod bearing. Anyone have experience with cracked flex plates? Any easy way to diagnose these? Any other thoughts? Thanks. Gene

Working for me too. Gene

Unfortunately, that's not all that it eats up. I think it was a major factor in the frame rot in my Comanche. I'm shocked by how quickly it deteriorated over the past two years, which were not even particularly bad winters. http://comancheclub.com/topic/53126-will-my-comanche-break-in-half/ So, yeah, I think you'll be getting lots of use from the double flare tool! Gene

Good point, Eagle. Perhaps it depends on how many vehicles you have, or how old they are, or how bad your winters are. I put my double flare tool in the "can't live without it" category. I might only use it once every few years, but when I need it, I need it! Gene

Hi 54bobby, Be ready to replace more than just this line. When I had to relpace "A" rear line it turned into replacing "all" rear lines. Hope that is not the case for you! There is another thread going about brake lines you may want to take a look at that. Nevermind, you started that thread! Good luck! Gene

Hi everyone, Not sure why there is such sentiment against double flaring. I am fair-to-middlin', at best, with my mechanical skills, and I have no problem with it. About 10 years ago I bought a decent double flare tool at Sears, about $60 if I recall correctly, and have used it on several of our vehicles. After a few practice double flares, it is really not hard at all. Two advantages to this. First, as noted in this thread, you can make up brake lines to the exact length needed. Second, (not MJ) if you have a long line with one bad spot, you can cut the line to remove the bad section, double flare and splice it, leaving the rest in place. My daughters 97 Subaru Impreza has 2 lines that goes from under the hood, snake through the passenger compartment to under the back seat, then pass through the floor there to the rear wheels. They were quite rusty after they left the cabin. I cut and double flared under the seat, and ran new lines back to the rear wheels. I can't imagine how hard it would have been to replace the entire line. Finally, if you have a vehicle with bubble flare, not double flare (our old 2000 Dodge Caravan) you can buy premade bubble flare lines, cut them and double flare one end to double flare, and work with that. The Caravan had a crazy stainless flex section on the rear line that would rust out. You could cut that out and save most of the rear line. Gene

Our Walmart has R134a for about six dollars for a 12 ounce can. Gene

College tuition costs are crazy now. That's why both my daughters went to college under ROTC scholarships. Both of them were raised in a military environment so it wasn't hard to convince them. Their scholarships covered about 85% of the total bill. They are both now working off their obligatory payback time; one is a captain in the USAF and the other is an Army reservist. I salute you, sir, both for your service to our country, as well as passing this on to the next generation! Thanks. Gene

I'm not sure, I got the idea he gutted the vehicle in anticipation of doing a full restore, and never got around to it. Gene

Hi everyone, Thanks so much for all the thoughtful replies. By your standards, I am a total wimp when it comes to this. Unfortunately, I have time and financial constraints (kids requiring two college tuitions and a wedding coming up in a year, you older guys will understand this!). Additionally, my space to store and work on vehicles is somewhat limited. I envy you guys with the ability to do as you suggested above. I'm just not in that position right now. I'm not giving up on this by any means, I'm just not going at it as quickly as you guys would! Additionally, I'd really like a long bed, I think it does a better job of hauling plywood, drywall, studs, and so forth. Thanks again for all the responses! Gene

Don probably wrote it...... :bowdown: :bowdown: :banana: :banana:

That, of course, is key. https://frederick.craigslist.org/cto/6156237926.html Asking $2500 for the truck itself. I doubt anyone would be touching it for that. Thanks for your thoughts. Gene

Hi everyone, I have a 1988 longbed 4WD 4.0 5 speed with really bad frame rust. I have been looking for a recipient vehicle. Most of these are quite a distance away. There is a stripped (no engine/trans/interior) 88 shortbed RWD about 1 1/2 hours away being advertised. Described as perfect body, rust free. A few pics posted seem to confirm this. Any thoughts as to a reasonable price for this? Thanks Gene