johnnybebad

I have an extinguisher close at hand just in case . the floor was damp from rain the night before and I couldn`t tell the fuel was leaking until I got under the jeep and had a small flicker of flame when I was grinding. Its always a good idea to check for fuel leaks before doing any type of cutting,grinding,or welding, and I always do, but I think when I moved the old brake lines out of the way I ruptured a leaky fuel line behind the tank skid and this caused the leak later. as for the jumper wire under the hood, the battery pack shown in the pic has an on/off switch, so there were no sparks at any time. I simply shut it off when I needed to empty the jerry can. safety first !! :yes:

yes there are other ways to empty your MJ`s fuel tank other than simply driving it lol.... while stripping down the comanche yesterday I needed to grind off one of the trans mount bolts, and this is when I found out my fuel tank was leaking lol..... got to love fire ;D the tank was 1/2 full, and i was working alone so I knew removing it was going to be a PITA. Then I had a thought, why not bypass the fuel pump relay and let the tank pump itself dry ?? simply unhook your fuel line and if need be attach a hose to it to reach a gas can. take a piece of wire and jump it from your + battery terminal to the fuel pump relay connector as shown. I was in the process of removing the engine, but you get the idea.no need to have the key on to do this. I drained my gas tank in under 10 minutes !

got a lot accomplished today. motor,tranny,transfercase and both driveshafts are out. going to take the box off tomorrow . the drivers side spring perch is rotted completely off which is why it sits a bit crooked. the bed and underside of the box is in great shape, but the guy put new panels on the boxsides with rivets and fibreglass :doh: going to take a lot of work to get it looking right but i think it`ll turn out fine.

dug it out of the snow, started it up and drove it into the shed..... no fanbelt, broken DS spring perch, flat tire, and FOREARM steering lol. starting to strip her down tomorrow

I did need to box in the upper control arms the first year I raced..... have a pic of the old ones somewhere, they resemble two mangled pretzels lol

yeah i knew it was only a matter of time. I bought the rims and tires for $100 with a set of Wild Country RVT`s on them , so i wasn`t too concerned with the rim. switched back to steelies after that run lol

this is my 2nd run of the day in a 96 cherokee that I have beat the living bejesus out of for 2 years. the front end is NOT trussed, and the day before this event I had found that the factory original ball joints had beaten a hole up through themselves on the lowers lol. on the first jump as soon as I landed I knew something broke and by the time I landed the second one i couldn`t steer .....turns out the alloy rim literally broke almost in half, and where it shattered actually caught the tie rod end,but somehow it kept on moving lol....enjoy

nice truck !!! it`s so odd to see a vehicle 20 years old with so little rust. my XJ is a 2000 and has more rust than the 88 you scrapped lol

it`s been a long cold winter so far, but I am going to start tearing down the MJ next week. I have been stuck in the house with a leg infection ( cellulitius ) for 2 weeks and have been making plans for the truck. I am going to freshen up the stock motor with a 4.6 stroker kit remove the AX15 and put the AW4 in its place install a locker in the D44 gusset the front ,reinforce everything,swap in some F-150 coils and spacers for 4 inches of lift , and I may even tackle a4 link or a 3 link in the rear with panhard bar. not going for huge lift here, just want better handling. I am thinking on bumping up a class, mostly because of the rules ,but this will still look like a stock MJ because I love the looks of these trucks !! I`ll post up pics of the teardown /build up as it begins

I haven`t tackled it yet but i soon will.my downbars will exit through the rear window opening and right to the top of the frame . i`d rather take out the window and fab up some lexan to fit the bars than cut holes through the cab .

lmao, do you want to get a shipping quote for that ??

hehe, awesome pass !!!!!!!

it is loads of fun. we cover most of the province !! this was my second year racing in the series, first year for points . i learned a LOT in the last year , working the suspension bugs out and finding a setup that works. I beat that poor cherokee as much as i posibly could , towed it across Nova Scotia with a fozzy locked 8.25 on a tow dolly, and always brought it home in one piece lol. people can say what they want about the Dana 30, but mine was NEVER trussed, and it saw more time off the ground than on it, and never let me down !

here are a few vids of the racing we do , enjoy !! this was my first time racing. 31`s with no lift + motocross jumps = rear frame destroyed lol this is why it`s important to beef up your tie rod !!! I broke both rear shocks on the first run, causing the bounce lol broke an aluminum rim in half coming off the second jump one of my better runs lol

10/91

as Eagle said, cutting a pair of old leafs and adding them does help. I did this with my XJ, and also added the bottom helper spring from an older model Dodge Dakota and the lift was quite noticeable. MJ`s have longer leafs than XJ`s , but you could still use cut off main leafs from an XJ.

could be a number of things but they all point in the same direction... LINKAGE either the rod that engages the 231`s shift lever is bent, out of whack, the bushings are shot, or the whole thing could be shot. if you crawl under there with the vehicle in PARK,turned off, and the wheels blocked, and have a friend try to shift from 2hi-4hi, you should get an idea of how the linkage works, and what may be causing it to bind.

it`s actually not that bad. some of the floor and rockers need to be replaced ,and the box sides need some attention, but the frame is in great shape. as for the proportioning valve..... it was like that when I bought it lol :D

edit: pics are in here until I can get time to fix them: https://www.facebook.com/BeBad/media_set?set=a.10150285246438120.354604.511328119&type=3 for the past 2 years i have been racing in the BF Goodrich Offroad Series here in Nova Scotia. I compete in the stock class.My first vehicle was a 96 XJ which took one HELL of a beating and never let me down. it has been submerged,sunk,stuck,pitchpoled and airborn more times than I can count. but it has come time to replace the XJ. Unibody vehicles can only stand so much abuse, and my obvious alternative was the Comanche. I lucked out and found a 92 SWB 4x4 with a 5 speed , 4.0 liter HO, and a Dana 44 rear. This will be a slow build , as racing doesn`t begin until next May, but I`ll keep you all posted ! ooooh a nice DANA 44 !! rusted out spring perches ?? ahh we can fix that lol

i don`t know if the 'correct term' is seal,dust sheild ,or what, but I mean that tiny black plastic ring around your axle that fits into the housing to keep dirt and crud out of the axle tube. when I replaced the axle joints in the rally truck I noticed mine were fubarred and had let loads of gravel and dirt inside the tube. Then while doing some plumbing I got a brainfart...... [ this is a 2x1-1/4 reducer fitting,PVC schedule 40. it fits a D30 axle shaft perfectly and the taper in the fitting matches the taper of the axle shaft.... it fits snug against the tube when the wheel bearing and axle nut are installed,and even if it is too tight, it will wear with use. I ran these for the entire season and no failures , total cost, 4 bucks

i put a set of 85-90 trans am GTA hood vents in my XJ. this was a shot in the dark but they fit perfectly between the ribs on the underside of the hood. they are louvered so rain wasn`t much of an issue either. sorry for the dark pic but you get the idea.

at the very first pic i said..this has gotta be in Nova Scotia lol, i was close !!! good work !

one thing to watch for is the input shaft on your 231. up to 92 ,AW4 and AX-15 were 21 spline, and 93 and up were 23 spline IIRC. not to say it can`t be done. the inputs can be switched fairly easy in the 231`s but it does require a tear down to do it.

lol, i tried one of those jimmy-rigs before, my review was NFG :rotf: I think I might see how much it will cost to have it removed, then advertise it for cost price. would rather see someone use it than just ruin it

sweet. i`ve got all winter to fab one up ! want to run a 4 link for racing , going to be using a fuel cell so clearance isn`t an issue for me