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Looking for mounting brackets for a SWB roll bar. Factory is great but if you've fabbed your own and they work I'm fine with that too! PM me with what you have, thanks!

Snagged a roll bar today! Doesn't seem to fit with the bed liner in there so that might have to go, hope there aren't any nasty surprises waiting for me underneath... Didn't come with any mounting hardware, anyone know where to get the brackets for the underside of the bed? I guess I can just get the bolts and stuff from Fastenal?

Haven't updated in a while as I've been fighting the truck running a bit hot over in the Tech section. Still not 100% in slow traffic (but pretty close - maybe like 215 now?) but seemed fine on the highway sooooo... I finally took it on some trails! Nothing super exciting, just starting to explore Wharton State Forest in NJ and barely even scratched the surface before it started to get late, can't wait to go back! Love this truck!

Awesome, thank you! That is super helpful. I'm also gonna try switching the new fan clutch for a ZJ one, will report back if that helps.

Yeah the wires for the ECU connector look pretty nasty so I'm sure that's not helping. I'll probably just rig up a direct switch soon.

Sorry, I meant that temps actually do go DOWN (slightly) under heavy throttle. And both hoses are new, lower has spring.

I fully installed the e-fan today just to see what happens, didn't hear it come on while driving to work but I'll keep an ear out. Temps do seem to slowly creep back down under heavy acceleration (which unfortunately I don't do much of driving around town) so maybe the new fan clutch is doing it's job? Did get that new cap, no change. At this point I'm not really sure what else to try?

Welcome to the club! Should be a fun project.

After replacing radiator, water pump and serpentine belt - temp still high... but at least drops down a bit when I get up to speed, then fluctuates a little. 16lb cap is ordered (still can't believe no one locally carries them), will try that next, then replace the gauge sending unit again with a MOPAR one. Also, hooked the e-fan up, would not run at normal operating temp but DID kick on when I disconnected the ECU. So at least it works!

Cool, thanks guys. I'm gonna replace the radiator and the water pump today. I'd like to get it to run @ 210 without the efan if possible since that's how it is originally configured, and should be able to do so. If those don't fix it... there's not much left to replace haha. Will try testing the out the efan once I'm done. Thanks again!

Thanks hornbrod, I'll see if I can get the e-fan up and running. Another thought: the first thing I did was replace the rad cap, the parts store gave me a 13lb one and from what I'm seeing now people seem to think a 16lb is actually correct? Is it possible that could cause this type of issue? I would have replaced it and tried already but all three parts stores in my area are out of stock... Will report back tomorrow hopefully!

Quick update, I replaced the fan clutch today - way louder, seems like it's moving more air but gauge still showing hot. On the plus side, I do in fact seem to have an electrical harness for an aux fan! I plugged it in, put a fuse for the aux fan in the fusebox but I'm confused about the relay. Inside the fuse box there is a space listed for a "cooling fan" that was empty, so I put the relay there. However, stuff I'd read online said the relay should be near the driver side fender. Anyone confirm where to put it on a 91 4.0? Are there any other fuses/etc I need to plug in before this thing should start kicking on above 210? Or should I just rig it up manually?

Hmmm this is the only unused connector I see in that area... A local junkyard actually just got in a 95 XJ (very rare to see XJ's in jy's around here) so I'll check it out tomorrow and see if I can snag a fan!

Update: I flushed the coolant, installed new Mopar t-stat, replaced upper and lower rad hoses and... still running hot, maybe a touch hotter. So what's next? Fan clutch? I did the hand-spin test when hot and it seemed ok but if there's a better test I'll try it. Also, should a 91 Eliminator have come with an aux electric fan? Because I don't have one Should I install one? How difficult is that?

These guys have em on eBay and ship internationally, should come out to around $330 for ya? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hurst-Billet-Plus-Shifter-1989-1999-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-MJ-6-cyl-w-AX15-5-speed-/281869896756?hash=item41a0c14c34:g:kXAAAOSwEppUMHEy&vxp=mtr

Awesome writeup! Good to know that's another option for replacing the bench. Truck is looking great man!

While replacing my front driver's side brake caliper/pads/rotor I noticed when putting the wheel back on that there was a little bit of play even when the lug bolts are torqued to spec. I don't notice it as much side to side but can feel it when pulling with my hands at 12 and 6 oclock. I don't have any strange noises or vibrations when driving (only took it around the block to test the brakes), from a cursory Google search it seems that I'm looking at probably the ball joint or the bearing/hub unit most likely, but are there any other tests I can do myself to try to narrow it down? Nothing seemed loose or wobbly when I took the wheel off again and tried to move things around by hand. The amount of play is also fairly small - is there ever an "acceptable" or normal amount of movement? I can try to post pics if that is at all helpful.

I got the guy down to $175 but ran out of time to pick them up on my way back to PA. Which is fine because I think if I'm gonna bother replacing the bench I'm gonna hold out for legit Eliminator seats or at least a close equivalent. Oh and random aside - I totally saw an MJ on the road while visiting friends in Newport News! Red LWB with bed rails, he was going the opposite way so no time to even snap a pic.

So I did get those busted caliper slide pin ends out of the steering knuckle, in case it helps someone else with the same problem here's how I did it: Top one - easy, enough of the pin was still sticking out so hit it with PB blaster and then a torch and turned it out with some vice grips Bottom one - broke flush with the edge of the hole so drilled two very small holes next to each other a couple mm deep, then hammered in a small flathead and was able to turn it out with the screwdriver Now I can finally start the five minute job I should have finished three days ago lol Also, can I get a price check? What are Comanche buckets going for these days, I hardly ever see them for sale so not sure what the going rate is but this seems... high? http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/5522782728.html They look pretty nice though and I'm literally driving right through there this weekend. Anyone have an opinion on what I should offer? (And is it someone on here selling?)

Not a very successful workday today... Doing front brakes, right side went fine, left side - broke both caliper bolts. Don't have time to get to Advance right now, so decided to swap out temp gauge sender and see if that solves my temp issue before trying anything else. Now the temp gauge does not work at all so uhhhhh there I fixed it???? :thumbsup: Ugh I think I'm done with Jeeps for the weekend, it's Miller time. I'll wait til next weekend to break my truck any further.

Replaced the aging, sagging front coil springs today with Moog CC782's. Not a great before photo but: and after: Definitely a noticeable bump in height in the front, almost too much actually! The rear is probably sagging too, I haven't measured yet to see how far off it is. What would be a good, easy way to get a tiny bump in height in the rear? Shackles? I don't know anything about lifts and I'm trying to keep it as close to stock as possible, might just leave it as is.

They're 7mm on some and not others I guess because... Chrysler? idk haha Thanks! 114k on the clock. Future plans are to keep slowly chipping away at deferred maintenance, I basically just bought it as a learning tool to get some experience with automotive work. Front suspension still needs some refreshing, I have some control arms I just haven't had time to install yet, not sure what else needs to be replaced at this point. Engine seems strong but has a bit of a tick to it so we'll see. This summer I'll be learning how to weld to fix the floor pans (no rust anywhere else luckily). After that I think I'm gonna try my hand at repainting it. I could probably afford a decent paint job but I think I'd rather just do it myself, that's kind of the whole point of having it. Also I'm weirdly protective of it haha, I don't like letting anyone else mess with my truck!

Yeah A/C was apparently optional on all trim levels. It's not on the build sheet anyway. Gives me a reason to get my window roller handles fixed before summer lol

91Pioneer, thanks for the tip! My original plan was to cut the old stud off, drill it out and replace with a grade 8 bolt. Got about halfway through drilling it and broke a 3/8" bit off in the hole. #*(%$@! So I used your video as my backup plan and relocated the stud a little over an inch forward. I used the Dorman kit since I already had it but if it doesn't hold up I'll either replace with a strong bolt or just have someone weld a new stud in the old location. Either way, it seems fine and the truck rides great with new shocks all around!!! Also cleaned up the cabin a bit (a lot actually) and installed a new tape deck. There must have been an issue with the old head unit since it sounded like crap and only used one of the rear B pillar speakers (and neither of the door ones) but now I have power all around and it's AWESOME! Gonna replace front pads and rotors this weekend. Thanks to whoever posted in a thread about needing a 7mm bit to remove the calipers, I had no idea and I would have been PISSED if I got the truck up in the air and had to stop and get yet another new tool to get the job done!

Worked on replacing the shocks this weekend, not problems at all til I got to the very last nut on the rear lower mount: Booooo. I tried to be careful with it, hit it with tons of PB Blaster for over a week, torched it, froze it, guess it was just gonna break. What's the go to fix for this? Grind it off, drill it out then replace with... something?