trinity5007

Where are you located?

For a side note I did a custom long arm kit on mine. With a 6.5 inch lift I wish I had done a long arm first instead of a short arm. In terms of stability and ride quality... if you are going to get a lift and are one the fence... anything over a 3 inch I would go long arm. You will be alot happier with it. Mine rides smoother then a Cadillac. Just saying.

Lol ya I actually ran into issues with it before. And had to clean them

Might be late I did actually figure it out. I couldnt find it because it's not there. I go the wiring diagram and traced the wires. My headlight harness didnt have the fog light option. Truck side is all there. So all I have to do is ad in the relay kit and I'm good to go.

This could be a tough one... I hope someone can help me out. So my front passenger corner has gotten hit... by trees.. I'm wondering if anyone has ever drilled out the welds holding the header support panel on. It would be the large metal panel the battery tray mounts to as well as the front clip. Does anyone have the measurements for where a new one is supposed to sit?

The 1990 was by the air box. I'm not sure about the 92. There is a plug that comes off the harness by the ecu but the wiring is different colors.

Hey guys. Looking for some help. In trying to set up my factory fog lights but I can't seem to get them to work. I have the OEM switch it lights up but no power to the actual fog lights. I know there is a relay but I can't seem to find it. It's a 1992. The Haynes manual was less then helpful. And Google does nothing. I found the fuse it's good. Now I'm trying to find the relay. Any Ideas?

Personally I would run the ho. And swap the parts over. You want. The columns are easy to swap over. I've changed mine twice. Electrical connections are the same on both.

That one would have to be turned. Con rod number 1 was trying to spot out the bearing. And the crank has major grooving in it. Unfortunately it's a 45min drive to a machine shop and they want 600 cad to do it. I was able to source one through Clegg's for alot less. Then it's a new crank ready to go

Haha no doubt. She is noisy smokes like crazy but.. stil runs still drives. Idk how far but I will

If anyone is following this. I ended up going ahead with the swap. A couple things I found out. First I found several bad connections when I was pulling out the old harness. This could have been the cause of a few of my issues. Second its alot of work but... totally worth it. It cleaned up the wiring so much. And now my starting is amazing. And swapping just the renix to the ho block yes it gave it more power but when you swap the ecm to match.. soo much better I was getting 375km to a tank of fuel now I'm seeing 450 pluss. The power and tourque increases are definitely noticable. Now I can actually cruise at highway speeds. Couldnt do that before. Things to note. The fuel sending units are different you need a 92 to read properly. Ignition switches and map sensor are identical. No need to change. The ecm will need to relearn the engine. Not a big deal but worth noting. The rear tail lights plug is different you will have to swap it out unless you do a custom harness. Accessory package on engine is different but performs better. Power steering pump remains the same but brackets will have to change if you are changing any of that. I'm sure if you dabbed it up you could make it work but I just swapped all the 92 stuff over. Over all worth the swap. But it's a bit of work

Haha I wish. Basically i rebuilt another block. And put an engine tech oil pump in it. Ran about 5000 km on it then the oil pump failed took out the block while on a trail ride. By the time I realized what happened it was too late and I just said screw it and drove as far as I could. Made it to a budys place it's been there ever since. Engine still starts and runs but noisy and smokey. Oil pressure comes up to about 30 psi and slowly drops as it warms up. I'm not totally sure what happened but she done either way. It's probably salvageble but... the block has over 300 000 km on it it was hydro locked and rebuilt once already didnt see a point in boreing it out and redoing it again. Found another complete engine ax15 and np231 for $400 cad couldnt pass up that deal. I run ax15 in my truck as is. They are hard to find. Figured even if the block was shot the rest was worth it. But I tore the engine down camshaft has weird wear on it timing chain was worn pistons have mild scoring and rod bearing number 1 was damaged and oozing out the side. Guy said it had a slight knock... Haha I'm not surprised. But I measured the block everything checks out. No scoring in the cylinders and they fall into factory spec. So now I'm just tracking down parts. This thing has gone from 2wd to 4x4 6 inches off the ground to 24 inches to my lowest point. Had a renix ecu now its swapped over to a 92 ecm. Btw well worth it but alot of work. Finally got the engine humming alot happily then bam just one bad week. Driving down the trail drove through a water hole nothing out of the ordinary the an hour later lost oil pressure and things got loud. Sorry maybe a longer story then expected. The fall before I was out rock crawling I was going up the steepest sketchfest stuff I have ever done. The thing performed flawlessly... I figured if it was going to go it would have been 3 hours away from home in the middle of no where. But nope it goes 20 minutes away on a trail i hit up regularly.

Mine always kicks on at 212. But that's slowly moving through trails or stop and go traffic. At 86 degree air temp. But that being said I have a single core rad. When I was running the thicker rad it never came on. Even with the single core. A new clutch fan helped significantly. Now the aux fan barely ever turns on. It's got to be hot hot.

Hey so... I ran I to a tough spot it seems. My engine blew.. I picked up a new/used block. It needs a rebuild but everything is in spec minus the a few things. Going with all new internals but I'm having a hard time finding a crank shaft. I'm not sure if it's worth it for me to go stroker or keep it stock. I'll be porting the head to allow for more air flow but otherwise keeping the rest stock. Anyone have lines on crankshaft suppliers? Engine is a 1992. 4.0l

I believe they were in the 4x4 dakotas too.

Hopefully. Are your engine mounts pulled or anything? Like pushed at an od angle?

My guess is that a 94 housing then. Which he did say earlier on. Hear are some measurements on mine

i did find the ba 10 to be short enough to cause shifter issues tho. i had to use the cover plate for it vs the ax 15. but the whole in the floor was plenty big enough.

hmm ill grab some pics with measurements. and see if yours line up the same. i beleive i read the same thing. that they are the same. but unlus your mounts somehow shifted an inch. or you got the one truck made an inch shorter... i think you got something else going on. at least it will give you a few ideas anyway. altho mine no longer has the 231j in it or the factory cross member. it still has the ax15 and jeep 4.0 in factory spots.

its possable they changed the input shaft lengths on the transmision as well. i would say maybe look up some specs on different years and see if its changed. and yours is deffiniatly an ax 15 but it looks newer. i know there is changes to the 231j t case. it wouldnt surprise me if other things changed too.

ok I'm not sure if ya have it figured out but it looks like the BELL housing is too long. in theory yes the 94 should fit but it clearly doesnt and your transmissions position proves this. having done a 2wd to 4x4 conversion mine lined up perfect. here's a bit of my experience. truck 89 2wd ax 15. swaped out to a 92 4x4 ax15 / 231j tcase trans has internal slave. i blew transmission. put in peugot pos thing. yes it is in fact shorter!!!! i had to change my cross member position. repaired ax trans put back in. i had to use the 4x4 drive shaft from the comanche. but otherwise i used cherokee stuff for the front. i never changed engine mount or crossmember. from what it looks like the 94 bell housing with external slave is longer. you may have to find one from a closer year. evidently i do have a spare, but its internal slave and I'm in canada so shipping could be brutal. if you want i can try to get pics and measurements. of what mine looks like. just soot me a message.

having trouble. anyone ever get a bad oil pump? i have a 1992 4.0, " rebuilt" the block new bearings new rings, new gaskets, honed cylinders full valve recut and head job, compression varies 135 to 145. figured while I'm in there new oil pump, but.... ever since first fire up oil pressure is up there. i started with a mecheanical gauge. it read 85 pluss psi.but engine ran perfectly. no ticks no weird noises nothing, if wasnt for the guauge you wouldnt know different. figured its fine. fast forward 7000km. swapped out to oem guages. oil pressure still reads high, maxes out the gauge when running above 1500rpm. loads of oil in the top end. when you shut if off you can hear it pouring down. so not plugged filter. lots of power. engine seems to be happily broken in. decent fuel mileage 400km to a tank 6.5 inch lift with 31s, however I'm concerened the high pressure is going to cause issues. i can hear a mild tick now when its running. I'm thinking lifters? maybe the pressure is too high? I'm not sure. could be exhaust leak too. its tough to narrow down. i have never seen a pump push that much oil before. it was a stock spec replacement. but its an engine tech brand. thinking chinesium? either way i don't think the pressure relief in the pump is working proper. thoughts? spec in my haynes book is 12 psi hot idle. 45 psi above 1500 rpm.

well having done a 4wd conversion. its pretty straight forward. everything just swaps over. the only issue you will have mechanically is the rear driveshaft. the 2wd and 4x4 shafts are different length. shifter spot in the floor is just a cover plate. so you can just put in the shifter from the xj. i loved when i did mine. i thought it was goining to be this huge pain. but it turns out jeep just had one body for both 2wd and 4wd. all the bolt hols were there and threaded for the skid plates too. by far one of the easiest swaps i have ever done.

how hot is the engine? ive had 92s do that when they over heat. with idiot lights i guess its hard to tell. maybe pop hood and let cool down?