kro10000

Sorry bud, hopefully you can find work soon

here's an update... Brought the rotors up to advance today and the guy handed me a new one. As there was nothing visibly wrong with the other it didnt get swapped.

Ahh... If only :(

I was bleeding it properly, one person depressing the pedal, then I open the screw... Thanks for the tip though, ill go over the line tomorrow

:D Sorry guys, I heard that line somewhere and felt this an opportune time to use it. It's your jeep and youre entitled to do what you darn well please to it (assuming the govment doesnt say no) just as I am entitled to my opinion that if I wanted something to corner well, I'd build a car, just like if I wanted a off roading truck, I wouldn't set my mustang on a ford 4x4 frame with some mud tires... Not saying people don't do it, just not my thing. Honestly I meant the sex change thing more in humor than anything else

So for the last few weeks, my MJ has been getting noticably harder to shift. Until the other day when I pretty much lost the clutch completely. So I attempted bleeding the system, no dice. So praying that the internal slave didnt go out, I replaced the not leaky 5-month old master cylinder, and again... no clutch. After excessivly bleeding it, the clutch engagement was exactly as it was before I installed the master, so I don't think the master was the issue. So I'm left with replacing the dreaded internal slave :ack: But I was hoping you guys could check me. I have always had black colored fluid in the master, even after I put the new master in. Now I can start the jeep up with the clutch pedal down, and in first gear. While stationary I can't move into any gears, but I can take off in first. Sometimes there is some "dragging" as the clutch is not fully disengaged while at a stop. And NO I AM NOT DRIVING IT, I had to get it home, so I drove it without using the clutch. I really need to get this fixed, but have limited funds, and this is my dd... Last friday my mustang became inoperable so I can't drive that. And since I am a full time student, with a part time job I never have full days off, so replacing the slave will mean me lying in my driveway until god-knows-how-late until I get this fixed. So obviously I don't want to do this if not absolutely necessary. Thanks guys

Yes you WILL need the crank and rods, just not those :thumbsup:

Looks like it threw a rod, that rotating assembly is trashed

And intake restriction

IMO lowering a jeep is like finding the girl of your dreams and giving her a sex change

I am by no means an expert on these motors, but i believe the newer style turbo has a computer actuated wastegate, or something... It may possibly be an issue

Stroker :dunno:

My A/Ts are E range, and I would NEVER recomend them... The ride is aweful and it beats the living heck outta the suspension. I got em for free, id never buy them

Ive got 245 70r16s on mine, and theyve never rubbed

Simple favor?

:hijack: Still would like to swap in a vortec 4200 I6

Yeah, luckily I don't believe it damaged anything except the rotors, pads, and bearings... I havent had the chance to tear everything down yet, and check out the spindle (work too much)

Well I now work at OReillys, so I don't do business with advance much anymore... But you would think even cheap chinese rotors would last more than 50 miles

Well at least I'm not the only Ford guy on here :cheers:

No this wasn't the MJ, it was the Mustang... But this does apply to 2wd MJs with integral hubs. Finally drove the mustang on the highway last night, first time its been on the highway in at least 30 years. About ten minutes in, and I hear a BANG followed by grinding, and the car pulls to the right, HARD. I managed to keep control, and slowly got the car onto the side of the highway as it tried to mate with a guardrail. I get out and find THIS (Sorry for the blurry pics) The rotor hat separated from the center piece, these rotors were BRAND NEW, albiet 2 years old. I bought them from Advance Auto. I plan on taking these into Advance on monday and raising hell. If there were another car next to me, someone could've gotten killed. The only thing that was holding my wheel on at that point was the brake caliper. These admittedly were the cheapo rotors, but these were dangerous. Anyway I was wanting to ask you guys' opinion on the matter, any reason these could've been caused to fail besides a poorly made rotor?

Just because you have spark doesnt mean you have good spark, ive been in that boat, if you have a buddy with a known good coil, id swap it and see if she fires... Your coil may just be weak

Remember that a diesel runs cooler than a gasoline motor, that said if there is an I/C involved, those reduce the cooling efficiency of the radiator (assuming they are mounted in front or behind the rad. A stock 4.0 radiator may possibly be up to the task, if there isnt an I/C

443 Hp from a NA 4.0 is downright incredible, nice work!

:agree: Did you have any spare cash before buying it? If so its time to say goodbye... J.E.E.P. (just empty every pocket)

I really like that second one, Id actually consider that on my MJ