dkmcgowan

I noticed that.. I saw a couple on eBay that looked right, I figured I would check her first in case someone had one in the garage and wanted to clear out some space. I probably will run by the pull a part this weekend and see if I get lucky before paying shipping on eBay.

Lot's of great info here... This vehicle was not originally 4wd, so that vacuum actuator is not there on passenger fender. I'm curious if the plug is there or not, but I didn't initially see it. If that plug is there pretty sure I could wire it up to the newer t-case connector somehow. I will check and see if plug is there. Thanks!

The floor indicator is good enough, it isn't a big deal and not spending too much effort to figure it out... I just had the extra wire in the connector on the mid 90's AX15 and no where to plug it in the engine, tracked down what it was, realized my 89 still had the dash indicator, and was just curious if I could hook it up...

Sorry, your correct, it's the NP231 from an XJ as well... I see the indicator switch and have it run up my custom harness to the passenger side engine bay. I don't think this transfer case has anything for the upshift indicator, I don't see another switch or anything. So I was trying to atleast get the 4wd indicator working. I have read there is some wire that should be in the harness, but haven't found it.

I just finished a swap to convert my automatic (AW4) to a manual (AX15). I got the harness all hooked up to bypass the neutral safety switch and got the reverse lights working. It's a mid 90's AX15 from a Cherokee, I believe 95 maybe, it has the external slave cylinder. I wanted to get the 4wd indicator light working on the dash. When I pulled the dash to install the longer accelerator cable I made sure to put bulbs in the slots for 4wd indicator and up shift indicator. Do I need another harness with a couple connectors on it though to plug somewhere into the dash? I can see the switch on the transmission and can run a cable up to passenger side of engine bay where the TCU connectors are, but I assume I would need to add something to make the light come on? thanks!

I have an 89 that I just converted to a manual. It's a 4.0 and I put an AX15 from a mid 90's Cherokee on there. I put a Cherokee front Dana 30 axle as well. I'm looking for a front axle that will work. I ended up just getting my rear drive shaft shortened. I'm in the Atlanta, GA area.

So I never could get my idle perfect... I got frustrated and pulled the head and took it to the machine shop. Cylinders 5 and 6 both had valves that were not seating all the way. I got it checked out, cleaned, re-surfaced, and had valve job done. I just got it installed again... I have to put the rest back together, but I'm feeling like I find the real issue.

So I have an 89 Comanche Eliminator, red... The body was in good shape, and there was zero rust on it when I purchased it. But.... Everyone says just wait until you look under the carpet, all Comanches are rusted under the carpet. It's been a couple of months and I'm finally doing my conversion from 2wd Auto to 4wd manual, so I decided to remove the seats and the carpet. Look what I discovered... Perfect floors!!!

Yep, used flat feeler gauge... You have to "feel" it because .002, .003, and .004 are all so close to together... I placed it in the center of the throttle plate, I would open, close it on the feeler gauge, then pull upwards. I got it to where I felt like the .002 came out really easy with no resistance, the .003 had very little resistance and the .004 felt like it had a lot of resistance, then I felt like I was at .003 Then make sure to set your TPS again. I like to leave the air bleed screw all the way closed, then if you need to "fine tune" it, use the air bleed and open it up a little more, then you don't have to adjust the TPS again, but from what I can tell on 3 Comanches now and almost mine (have other issues), you shouldn't have to tweak it at all really

I'm pretty positive the number is .003, glad it worked! I've set my back to .003 and IAC works and controls the vehicle like it should. I have the idle up a little higher right now because I still have another issue somewhere. My next plan, hopefully last, is extreme. I noticed what could be some oil in my fresh radiator fluid, so I'm going to do a head gasket, while it's off a valve job, and of course do the intake and exhaust manifold gasket while it's out. Then I think I'm going to be good. But that's 3 Comanches now, so I feel good about .003 being the number.

I'm swapping an aw4 with an ax15. Is this diagram showing the black or grey connector under the hood? If I read this correct should I tie the wires B and C together to simulate always in nuetral to bypass the NSS? Also, does it mean I hook up A and E to the reverse switch on the ax15?

Pretty cool tool, I need to order one so I can spend time and get it done right. I'm hoping it's just air in the system from when I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder. I purchase a new NAPA master cylinder, I've read they are pretty good, so I hope it's not bad. So when I'm driving and slam on the brakes, I reach the end of the pedal and I don't come to a complete stop. But other times the brakes are more sensitive and seem to work better and I can slam on the brakes and stop. Would air in the system cause intermittent failure like that? I can pump them and it doesn't really seem to change much. The past two days they felt good most all the time, and today they did it again. It's not terrible, the brakes still are working. I have replaced booster and new master cylinder, also all 4 new brake lines to the cylinders and calipers, new rear shoes and hardware, turned rear drums, adjusted rear, and new front shoes. The front rotors are worn, but I didn't turn or replace them because I didn't want to waste money because I'm looking to convert to 4wd and put a new Dana 30 up front and the rotors and calipers are different, so I know they are worn. Thoughts?

So I've decided for now to wait for one from before 2000 for the high pinion... So if anyone sees one close to Atlanta, let me know!

That one looks good, send him a txt, he still has it. It has about 150k on it, which seems good. It seemed a little expensive, but not bad. It is a low pinion, 2000 was first year the XJ got the low pinion. I don't plan on a lift or large tires, just daily driving and taking in the woods on some hunting land, but would prefer high pinion. I will think about it this week, but maybe I should wait...

So I have been adjusting things more. My car just doesn't like .003, even if the other two Comanches did. I found that adjusting the butterfly stop to .004 things run better. I'm probably right over .004. I also have the air bleed screw out maybe 1/2 a turn. I've got my idle at exactly on the 3rd mark, the one right below the 1. This is where it runs best. I set butterfly to .004 and then would turn the air bleed out 1/4 a turn and drive around a bit, I got up to 1 full turn, then started backing it back down until it felt the best and I was close to the line, which was somewhere near 1/2 a turn out on the bleed screw. So the idle seems fine for now... I still have a miss and slight surge feeling at idle. It's not that much and I'm just being picky, it's idling really well now. The MT2500 shows it much closer to 128 on LT and ST fuel trim and the idle needle barely moves now at idle. But I wanted to keep replacing part, so I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump with a new Bosch unit. I also replaced the fuel filter and all the fuel hoses. I was a few psi below spec on the fuel rail with a gauge, so that's fixed. It "might" miss a little less now, not sure, hard to tell, but I think it's better. The new Bosch unit is actually much quieter than the OEM one, which is not what people say is normal, so I think my pump was going out. The hose inside the tank was really cracked up as well. So it needed replacing, but I think it was still working... I figure it's time to close this thread and maybe if I still have issues I will summarize what all I have done and make a new post about the surge or pulsing I'm feeling. thanks for all the help everyone

I went to all pull a parts around me, all xjs were 2wd except for one that was 4wd but it was a manual and so gearing was different, but that was about a month ago, need to check again. This is on craigslist, not sure if a yj one will work. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/5192776637.html

Good to know, so looking for any dana 30 front axle with 3.55 gears and will see if I can make it work

If your close and have a dana 30 that has the vacuum stuff from a comanche I might be interested still, I read about locking it in place and accomplishing the same thing.

I know... I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet. I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue. I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again. I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4. It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it. I am getting no light on the indicator panel though. I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way.

I have no idea from this what you did, but it doesn't sound right. I after I did the shoes on the rear brakes there is the opening in the back with the gear with the teeth on it. You can use this to manually adjust the brakes. It's the auto adjuster, but many say you have to get them adjusted initially so they can do their job... So jack up the car on the rear, and then I adjusted the teeth to tighten the rear brakes. I kept adjusting until when I rotate it by hand, off the ground, the wheel makes one full rotation. That seemed to be a good balance. I then made sure the parking brake would stop the car from moving with 4 clicks.

So I haven't actually taken my fuel pump out, will do it tomorrow afternoon, but I went ahead and cut the plastic so the top rubber piece would be flush. I think this will make it fit perfect with no cutting of metal necessary. I just used the dremel to cut the top of the plastic off on my dotted lines so it would fit flush. I think cutting the plastic is much easier than cutting metal and leaves the sender alone. I hope it works and fits...

I'm doing a 2wd to 4wd conversion, I have an 89 Eliminator with 4.0. I plan to leave the rear dana 35 with 3.55 axle for now and looking for a front axle, dana 30, matching gears. I want the new style from am xj without the vacuum stuff. If anyone has one in driving distance from Atlanta, GA I'm interested.

I'm noticing brake issues. History... I put all new lines on, turned rear drums, new rear pads and hardware, new brake booster, new master cylinder, and bled the brakes. I did pads on front brakes and it needs new rotors maybe but I'm waiting because I'm planning to add an axle for 4wd conversion soon. I didn't bleed the valve where you bleed the rear with the front open, just a regular bleed job. I also adjusted the rear brakes with the star thing until I could rotate them only one full turn with a hard twist, and then adjusted parking brake. They stop great when driving, can stop short and feel good. Now for the issue... Sometimes when I first crank it up and start driving, twice this week leaving my parking deck at work, I go to stop and I push on brakes, it's not hard like a bad booster or soft like air or bad cylinder, but its not right. It's like the brakes get to the end and can not go any further, you hit the stopping point, you cannot push any further, but the vehicle is still moving, it's slowing down, but it doesn't actually stop. It will do this a few more times and by the time I get home to test in the neighborhood, slamming brakes stops great and all is working. Thoughts? Bad wheel cylinder or caliper locking up and not working?

Quick question about the Bosch fuel pump installation. I notice you decided to cut the metal original piece so the plastic spacer would fit. Could also just trim the top of the plastic spacer so it's below or level with the rubber piece and then not have to cut anything? Here are some photos... One shows the plastic piece with the rubber on it, I marked some lines, then was thinking I could just cut the plastic around the lines and it would mount up without issue on the metal piece? also there was another big rubber circle piece, is that just extra? thanks!

So this morning it fired right up, it started idling high, and slowly lowered it's idle as it warmed up. This seems like much more normal behavior. Before with the butterfly open too much, it would start idling low, and as it warms up, your idle goes up, so the opposite, meaning the IAC is not in control. It runs good when cold and the idle is right above the second line, maybe 720-750, right where I want it. Then as soon as it reaches a certain temp, it decides to try and keep the idle at 600 rpm. It runs and it's not bad, but I just wish the idle was higher. I'm trying to decide what I like better. The computer being in control, which seems like the right way, or overriding with the butterfly stop to get the idle I want, which I'm pretty sure is wrong. I'm going to leave it this way for now. I wish I could modify the ECU to tell it to add 50 or so rpm. Here is where it's at below.