dkmcgowan

I have an 89 Comanche, about 120k miles on it. It runs and drives pretty good, done a decent amount of work on it. I use to drive it daily, but recently got another Cherokee I've been driving some. So the first occurrence was when it was really cold, I had not driven the vehicle in maybe 2 weeks, cranked it up, and there was a very loud engine knock. It got louder as I accelerated. I moved the vehicle in the driveway, and hit accelerator a couple times, noise accelerated and got faster, really loud knock, maybe 2 minutes later or so, it stopped completely. It was really cold, had been below freezing a few days, figure thick oil was maybe causing some really bad lifter noise, ignored it and moved on. It never did again, but also started driving it daily again. Today, I cranked it up, it's like 60 degrees here, not cold. I haven't driven in maybe 1.5 weeks give or take, I got the super loud engine knock again. It also still got faster and louder as I accelerated. This time I popped the hood, couldn't tell if it was coming from the head or deeper in the engine, but a loud knock for sure. It sounded louder and more of a knock than lifter noise, but it's hard to tell. I also never remember, doesn't one of the types of engine noise NOT get louder or faster as you accelerator? piston slap or lifter tick? I went in and hit the accelerator a few times, it would get faster and louder. Then I hit the accelerator really hard one time and it stopped instantly and I drove it all day, no issues again. I know sometimes noises from engine can end up being exhaust, but those usually get softer and softer over time. This got a little softer for a few seconds and then just stopped. I had the head rebuilt maybe 6 months ago when I had it over doing some other work. I checked and had good oil pressure, at the gauge, for whatever that is worth. It was a good 50 psi. Any ideas? If it does it again I will get a video.

I just need to replace o-rings on some 746 injectors. The original Renix injectors had a larger size on the fuel rail and a smaller on the bottom, when doing the 746 injector do I use the same size o-ring on the top/bottom? Can I pick the o-rings up at a parts store? Here are the original ones... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?year=1989&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&vi=1181685&keyword=fuel+injector+seal%21s%21o-ring+kit I'm thinking I just need the BWD 274571, but cannot tell, seems like both are the same size. The 746 injectors I have appear to have the same size o-ring on them. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/274571/02524.oap?year=1998&make=Volvo&model=S70&vi=1434002&ck=Search_fuel+injector+seal%21s%21o-ring+kit_1434002_1481&keyword=fuel+injector+seal%21s%21o-ring+kit Just making sure... I know they are Bosch EV6, but that doesn't help me find them local.

I figured it must be a short of some kind, or something wrong with the dash indicator itself. It is grounding somewhere. I think things are pretty different on your 91, I have an 89 Renix. The part time 4wd light is on the passenger fender, I have it circled in red. I can verify this works and is hooked up to my NP231. When the full time light was on today, I popped the hood and unplugged the part time light connector in the picture and the full time light stayed on. Does anyone know which wire is used for the full time light on the renix years? There are 2 wires on the plug going into harness for the part time light.

I have an 89 Comanche that was originally 2wd and an automatic. I swapped it out to an AX15 with an NP231. When I did this swap, I found the wire on the passenger fender for the "Part Time" 4wd light. It looks like 2 wires coming into a single butt connector. I ran the switch from my NP231, two wires, one wire to ground and the other wire to that butt connector. Now my 4wd light works perfect, if I shift into 4wd I get the "Part Time" light on the dash. All was great... Now when driving around, if I hit bumps, or just randomly, the "Full Time" light started coming on. If I stop and push in the parking brake, and then release it to let it slam upwards, it usually makes it go off for a short time. I probably added the bulb to it when I added the bulb for "Part Time", so originally it probably had no bulb. It's my understanding the Comanche never came with a full time case, but the wiring must have it wired for it. The transfer case that had part and full time had a 3 wire switch on it. How do you think this started coming on? Where is the wire for the "Full Time", I don't see any other wires over near where the "Part Time" wire was. I was also always curious why the "Part Time" wire had 2 wires going into the butt connector, is that something? I know I can just take out dash and remove bulb, but now I'm curious how it's shorting to ground and coming on.

I also read about pump being loud, but personally I can't hear it, seems like the same to me with replacement pump, at least inside the cab. Maybe you can hear it more when around the bed of the truck, but that doesn't bother me.

Yes, they modified an existing sensor they had to match the renix ranges, which is why you have to call with that part number and it's not carried in stores. I emailed for exact ranges and attached response, it matches renix range almost exact, the HO one doesn't come close.

Yep, breather tube for axle and trans, daking, nice setup on your rig!

You have your call them and they will get it shipped out to you direct from them.

It looks like it would be pretty easy to replace the clutch, but I cannot seem to find one anywhere... I found some new mopar units, but they cost twice as much as an entire compressor with the clutch...

It's a new alternator, not reman, but that doesn't mean much... It's charging great and when I see the load happen, my voltage doesn't go down. I will test both this weekend though. If the clutch is bad on the compressor, would unplugging tell me anything? Couldn't the clutch not disengage sometimes even when unplugged causing something like this? I have some additional info though. When I have the AC on, so the idle goes up a little, it smooths out and I don't feel the load every couple of seconds, even when the compressor is not running... So as long as it's in the AC switch mode I don't feel it, no matter about compressor being on/off. Weird right? Also, when I'm driving and accelerating with the AC on, if the compressor is off and I'm accelerating and it then cuts on like it does every few seconds, I lose power for a second. Is that normal? You can feel the compressor cut on and the engine lose power for half a second, then you keep on going. I've never had a car where you could feel the compressor cut on like that.

When I sit at idle, I can hear something every couple of seconds pulling load. It sounds like if you barely turned the steering wheel and the power steering pump started working for a second. So this would be like if every second or two you barely moved the steering wheel and then moved it back. I can hear the load happen and the idle just barely drops, then it goes back. I have replaced the belt, the power steering pump, the idler pulley, and the water pump... So on the pulley that just leaves the fan clutch and the AC... When I turn on the AC it seems to stop, so it seems to only be when the AC is off. Any chance the clutch on my AC has some drag every once in awhile even when off? Any other ideas?

I made an update to the post, the back of the connector from Tomco has a label on the back of it, and A and a B, you need to make sure to match that on the weatherpack connector, A goes to A and B goes to B. I had it correct by luck.

Tomco responded with the chart and specs for the 12134. The 12134 is a modified version of one of their sensors to match the needed ohm ratings. You will see it's almost dead on for our renix sensors.

Rough idle at times, hooked up mt2500 and my air temp was weird and changed too rapidly... runs better, haven't hooked mt2500 back up yet though

I hope it's not just an HO replacement unit. I talked to the tech at Tomco and he says the number very closely match the numbers from the Tomco 12120, which was the sensor for the Renix era's jeeps they do not make anymore. I asked them to send me the values in an email today, we will see. They said this 12134 closely matched the numbers for 12120, just needed a new end attached to it in order to work like the 12120, we will see. The values from the Renix era, I believe, are the ones below...

It cost me about $60 plus I believe $10 shipping. It seems to fit and run as it should. I had one that would give correct readings sometimes and other times not, I could tell with my MT2500 scanner. I hooked this up and it's running pretty smooth. I have yet to hook the MT2500 back up, but took it for a test drive and all seemed fine.

So I have been searching for a replacement IAT or air charge temperature sensor, part number 33002382. I found one! The original replacement TomCo part number for 33002382 was 12120. I talked with TomCo and they have another sensor, same threads for our intake manifold, same ohm readings, but just different connector. The replacement you want is TomCo 12134. You can call them and get one ordered up. http://www.tomco-inc.com/ Call 314-646-5300, don't worry about the extension, just go to sales and order 12134. You will notice it's the same type of sensor as the original one, with the element in the middle to get air temperature. The only issue is the connector is different. You simply need to order up a new Delphi Weatherpack connector like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PFA5O That is just a 2 pin weatherpack connector for a 16 gauge wire. The new TomCo comes with a connector and a wire. You will want to cut the wires to 6.5 inches like below: Then put on your new female weatherpack connectors. You will need a crimp tool or make it work with some pliers, crimp tool will work much better though. The connector has a label on the back, an A and a B, make sure you stick the wires in the correct slots in the weatherpack connector, B goes to B and A goes to A. Here is the finished connector. Then get it installed on the vehicle. You can remove the old one with a 19mm wrench. Be careful, it can break. I would also add some teflon tape to the sensor. It seems to work fine. I wanted to get TomCo to email me the exact ohm specifications so we could see and compare those to our FSM, but they say they match 12120, which was the replacement for the 33002382, so we should be good.

the throttle stop must have been off at one point and allowed the throttle plate to close too far and the bore has some damage. There is one side of the bore where you can tell the butterfly was hitting. I have adjusted the throttle stop correctly and added some blue locktite, hopefully it will hold, but does that bore damage cause any issues?

Nope, not that one, already have that one... That is one of the two pieces for all the other connections. Neither of the two harness include the map sensor plug and tube. It has a special two hole rubber grommet thing that shoves into the throttle body and another rubber connector on the other end that has a small hole on one end and a larger one on the other. No one makes it anymore, 53004589 is the part number, no replacements out there. I can make a new tube for it np, I just want the rubber ends, but will take the tube if someone has one already in good shape.

1989 4.0 renix, so those years should be good.. Thanks!

I'm looking to fix up the engine bay and I need a map sensor tube with both rubber ends. I'm fine if you don't have the tube or it's destroyed, I can make a new one with brake line or some new tubing. I don't have either of the rubber ends, the one that pushes into the throttle body and the one for the map sensor that is smaller diameter for the rubber tube and larger on the other end to stick onto the map sensor. Thanks!

I replaced my b pillar lights with some new euromatic ones. They work great most of the time, but sometimes they seem like they get no power. They don't turn on from door switch or manual switch on the light, and it's both lights not working. When this happens the other floor lights are working and the fuse seems good. That makes me think power, since likely both grounds wouldnt stop working? I'm thinking about pulling drivers side panel and looking over wires. This happened to anyone else?

I feel like it's worse since I swapped the fuel pump. Is there any wiggle room in mounting the sender? For example, if I have it rotated too much clockwise, it would make it not go all the way full and show empty too soon because it would raise the float up... Could I remove the lock ring and adjust it counter clockwise and get some adjustment? I don't recall when I put it on... I know there are tabs on the fuel sender so it won't go on but a couple different ways, but not sure if there is some wiggle room or not.

let me see if I can find them and check how bad mine are... not sure if I plan to tackle redoing mine again one day..

I replaced the fuel pump, but it's the factory sending unit and float on my 89 Comanche. I'm not sure if it's worse since I messed with it, but I did finally start measuring things. When I fill things up all the way, it does go all the way to full, but not for long, it should go further. I then drove until the gas light came on and it took about 12.5 gallons. So it's off by about a quarter of a tank. I was thinking I could just remove the sending unit, bend the float more straight and adjust for about a quarter of a tank, aka 4 gallons give or take, and then re-install and it should be fixed. Is that correct?