dkmcgowan

I spilled a decent amount of fuel in the rear with one of the injectors and some got on the manifold. If I let it sit overnight and finish tomorrow will it be fine to crank? I don't want to catch anything on fire.

So I got some 746 fuel injectors for my 89 4.0L. I removed everything and cleaned up the fuel rail with some cleaner and I'm ready to start installing. My question is do people normally try and clean the block fuel injector holes? They seem really dirty and gummed up, but I'm scared I will just push crude into the cylinders? Also, I had not driven the vehicle in probably 24 hours, but there was no pressure on the fuel rail to relieve when I pushed on the valve, should there have still been some? Wondering if this is a sign of an issue. I am replacing the pressure regulator while I have it apart with an OEM replacement. Also a few of the injectors were really hard to get out, seemed normal, but a couple of them in the rear came out super easy. I assume this could have been a vacuum leak and the cause of some of my idle issues, they should take some force to remove right? I also had a bunch of fuel come out when I removed the injector in the rear, but no fuel when I removed the others, it could just be that it sits at an angle and all fuel goes to the rear. Here is a picture of the injector hole?

That's what I thought... it was in another thread where someone was talking about after a couple of heat cycles you should re-torque things, which made no sense to me... I will check the oil pan bolts and make sure they are not loose, doubt that has anything to do with it, and then make sure it's not the oil filter adapter, crossing fingers it is, otherwise it's that darn seal... valve cover is good, replaced it and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

It was replaced, I'm just talking about what all should you re-torque, just oil pan bolts? How much?

This is on my 4.0L 89 Comanche... I had a friend while doing some other work for me replace the RMS... He said it did have some marks on it and it could leak, but he tried to clean it up and smooth it out. It worked for a couple of weeks and now it's leaking. I had read on here to re-torque everything after a few heat cycles. What all could you re-torque? The only thing you could get to would be the oil pan bolts right? The bearing cap you couldn't reach could you right? I'm planning to attempt to re-torque this weekend and see if I get lucky.

I'm just looking for the small plastic lens dome for the under hood lamp. I went to the pull a part by me and the only two older model cherokees they had were missing it as well. It's part number 83500907, but of course not made anymore. Thanks!

I ended up going with the ones from eBay from my link. Programbo said on 7/20 "I still clean, rebuild and sell occassional sets when I have the time" The eBay person has 99.9% positive rating, thousands of people giving great reviews on the quality and function, offers a warranty, good return policy, and I ordered a pack of 8 so I will have two extra. Kinda expensive, but I'm ready for this upgrade.

I have a quick question... I am replacing my injectors and want to have new disconnects... I know it will use 83502745, which is 5/16" I have read about 83504447, which is the 3/8", but looking at my parts manual, it looks like on my vehicle the 3/8" is only used for transmission lines and not fuel. It looks like I need two 83502745 5/16", one for the main and the return. Some on here say they are two different sizes though. Mine is an 89 with a 4.0L, could be a year thing or a 2.5 thing?

Pretty sure this was a relay, probably the latch relay on the panel of 4. I just replaced all 4 with new relays. http://comancheclub.com/topic/47926-replacing-the-4-relays-on-the-renix/ So far so good, I drove it all day today, stopping for lunch, errands, etc... She fired up after each time sitting. It must have had no pattern and I just thought it did. I bet the relay was just sticking most of the time and sometimes not.

So far so good, I think she is cranking and firing up good now. Must have been a relay. The voltage went back to my normal 13V on the gauge, that must have been me not realizing, but it looks like in the morning my voltage reads a little higher. So that was unrelated. But looks good so far.

Are they all the same relay? the ones in mine looked original, made in canada, and they were all the same exact relay. I had read hear or the cherokeeforum that you need to take them out and put them back in and not mix them up, maybe that is for the HO? I replaced them all with this one. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-convertible-top-relay-r3177p/3996786-P?searchTerm=relay# Before I replaced the relays, when cranked, my volt gauge always showed 12.5V - 13V, not the 14V I'm used too. I checked the battery and alternator, both good. With the new relays, it's a steady 14V always. I'm guess one of the relays was bad and drawing? I was trying to solve two issues, low/rough idle and hard crank. It fired right up. I warmed up the vehicle, then came and let it sit for 15 minutes, and then it fired right up again! I'm not calling it a win yet, more testing today, but seems promising. I'm assuming it must have been the throttle or B+ relay not resetting the TPS or something. I was hoping for a bad o2 heater relay as well and my rough idle to be fixed, but no luck there yet.

I decided to just check my meter and just set it to 200 on ohms and touched the terminals directly together, and it read 0.2... I could move them and got it to say 0.1, so I will assume I pretty much have perfect ground at 0 ohms and that was my meter showing me 0.1 and 0.2 at different times... So all is good... Didn't solve my idle and starting problems, but one less thing to do from the cruiser tips section... For future reference it would have been easier, like I said I was going to do, to just heat up the connector that was there and push in some solder into it to strengthen the connection instead of cutting the wires and then realizing they would be too short to tape up and push back into the harness. ohh well, live and learn

I guess 0.2 ohms is still pretty good. No fluctuation when wiggling...

I ended up having to extend two wires. I had some green wires that were close to the same size. They might have been a little smaller or maybe just not as good, which concerned me, but it was all I had. So I extended two wires and then twisted them all together and soldered them. I ended up with 0.2 OHM, so I made it worse. I should have just left it alone. I spent all day on this simple stupid project, which wasn't even a problem to start with...

So the connection was already soldered and fit pretty perfect with good connections. My dumb @$$ cut the connection, realized it was already soldered, now none of the wires will reach, and I will probably have to solder and extend wires, and make the connection worse. In hindsight I wish I had not attempted or done this one since my OHM readings were already good

Or your injectors are leaking when off. Get a set of 746 Volvo injectors from Programbo on cherokee forum. I agree. I sent him a PM on 7/31, waiting for a reply, he hasn't been online since 7/30, hoping he gets back online soon and checks his messages... I'm thinking about trying a CTS tomorrow just to see if it has anything to do with it, they are pretty cheap. Will possibly rent a fuel pressure gauge to test that as well before replacing a fuel pump.

In the end it did not help my problem, but I'm having hard start issues and low/rough idle... I have just been trying things... I marked it and could put it back if I wanted too. It didn't seem to hurt anything and it seems to be running a little better possibly. I plan to replace the CTS tomorrow and try that, then possibly use a fuel gauge and replace the fuel pump, and clean IAC...

I had to nail it once to get it to initially move. I had my small hammer and had to go get a larger one, but once it moved once, it was easy to adjust.

I'm still having some cranking issues. I made it through cruiser tips #1, #2, #3 (about half way, but all relays), #4, #5, #6 (looks good, need to solder them, but no lose connections), #7, #8 (TPS was out of adjustment, got it perfect), #21 (added a new OEM nos EGR), #22 (all new vacuum harness, new CCV, new vacuum canister, all new lines), #23 I also checked intake/exhaust manifold bolts, some were lose, tightened those up to specifications... it is still hard to fire up when if it's run in the past few hours... If it's cold, it fires up pretty well, if you shut it off and immediately crank it, it cranks pretty well, let it sit for a few hours, it's hard to fire up... I always turn key to on, wait until I stop hearing fuel pump, then crank, then wait for it to fire up. I did test tonight, for the first time, after letting it sit a few hours, I turned the key on, back off, back on, back off, and back on... So I primed it 3 times, and it did fire right up. Does this mean fuel pump internal check valve is bad and letting fuel go back to tank and making it harder to prime? If I was to get a new fuel pump and try, can you get that at parts store or do you have to find OEM stuff online?

if this is factory I thought this was the fix for tip #6, to remove the single wire and connect the two sets of wires together, which appears to have already been done? Should I just heat this up, push in some solder, and wrap it all back up?

I was thinking before I wrap it all up I could heat it up and push some solder into it to make the bond stronger... I read the cruiser tip again and I can't tell if the single wire connector between the two 3 pairs was only on the 87 and 88 and this is how the 89 was from factory, but sometimes that crimp connector is not on good and it still could be improved from being soldered?

I don't seem to have an exhaust leak... Seems like I would have to take everything out to get at it, going to leave it for now.

This is an 89 40L Renix... I am tracking down a low/rough idle issue and went to tighten my intake/exhaust manifold bolts. I noticed what appears to be a stud missing? It's the lower bolt hole on the front exhaust manifold.

So I was doing some work today and decided to check that all the injector connectors were tight. When I wiggled one of them I heard a hiss sound. When I stopped wiggling it stopped. I turned key on, let pump prime, no leaking. I then cranked it up, let it run, ran my finger under it on the fuel rail, no leaking. I'm planning on ordering some upgraded 746 injectors, but in the meantime is this bad? does it mean it's about to leak, or is that normal because the injector was moving and the seal might have just moved a little?

So I went to do the cruiser tip #6, the ground modification. I'm pretty positive it was factory harness, it was the factory old style tape that crumbled in my hands, showing that it was really old. It seemed very factory. Then I discovered it looks like the modification was already done?? I have 0.1 OHM from battery to B terminal on TPS, doesn't move at all when I wiggle. Was this ever done to fix things at the dealership, maybe someone took it in in the 90's and they did it with the factory tape stuff? I figured if someone at home did it, it would be regular electrical tape.