dkmcgowan

I used some vice grips to bend the tab back... I was putting it in the vice not the right way, figured it out... Also, I had to use my biggest hammer to move it the first time, hitting it really hard... You must hit it really straight and be careful or you will bend it... I think I got it right now. Also, I added a photo of my measurement, which is 3/8, or 12/32 with the ruler I'm using. It looks like cruiser pushed his even further up, but I stuck with what he wrote and 3/8.

I drilled out the top hole to 3/8, marked where it was, put it into a vice, put in a tight bolt, and started hammering on it. It just bent the tab completely... i see no way this tab would budge. any suggestions? I feel I'm about to damage a brand new OEM mopar CPS sensor :(

I think I figured it out... I was looking for an actual spring, but it's just to bend the little tabs out and make them closer... done!

I was cleaning my ignition coil while going through the cruiser tips. I noticed first the ECU has 3 connections on it, but only two are hooked up, I assume the 3rd is not supposed to be hooked up since no cable is around unplugged? Also, the ignition coil has two stud connections and one terminal, I don't see that the terminal connection would connect to anything? Then on top of the ECU, should I bend the tabs out some to help with the connection? Lastly I read there should be springs, but mine had no springs, where should those go and how?

I'm getting impatient... I'm watching these now on eBay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/271325770349?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I want them from Programbo, but not sure how long that will take... I know it's only been 5 days, but I'm dying to install these in my car...

Yep, that's what friends are for, and/or membership in a local clubs. I wouldn't let someone I don't know touch my MJ or even come to my house. Good points... Over time people would have reviews, so just like eBay you would know to trust someone over time. But someone would have to go first. Just looking to do something on the side related to my hobby and what I do professionally... The other idea I had was a free maintenance site, but that already exists.. https://www.carbot.org/

That is just questions and answers... What I was thinking is everyone would have a login and it would know where you were. So if someone posted an issue like "Brake issue on my 89 Comanche, soft pedal, need help replacing master cylinder, but I've never done it before". Then other home mechanics in the area would see they were only 10 minutes away from that person and say that they would help. They could go to the persons house to help them out one night or weekend, or tell the person to bring their truck over to their house and they would help. They could offer to help for free, parts, or have them send over $50 from PayPal...

I was thinking of just making a .org free site that supported using PayPal if you wanted, but you could do it for free, trade, whatever...

I'm in software development and always wanted to have a side project related to my jeep hobby. I was thinking about making a site to create a network of home mechanics and hobbyist who need help with a certain project or want to help others for fun or some side cash. So you could go there and post what you need help with one weekend and others in your area that know your car or how to fix what your issue was, or that have the right tools, could come and help, or you could go to them that weekend for help if they had the tools or better garage. Would anyone use this or does it already exist? I couldn't find it already existing for home mechanics or hobbyist. It does exist professionally, but not shade tree mechanics.

I read all that, lots of the same stuff I'm trying, we seem to be on the same path, we will see if we end up in the same place...

Does he sell on ebay or anywhere other than the forum? From what I can tell no... I sent him a PM on cherokeeforum on Friday, the 31st... He hasn't responded yet, but could just be busy... He hasn't posted on there since the 25th, not sure how often he looks or how many orders he has coming in... I want to get good ones, so I plan to give him another week, but after that I'm sure I will get impatient and just get them off eBay and try my luck.

that braided cable is pretty weak at the other end, probably not doing much, can I just cut that cable off and not mess with the head bolt and just have the #4 wire to the intake heatshield bolt and nothing else? One less wire in there and it's took screwed up to be helping much.

I see in your writeup to brush the connectors. I will get a toothbrush or something. That's easy on the relays and some of the connections, but not so easy on others. I will just get a small flat head and so some scraping.

Question about #3, cleaning all connections. Do you just unplug and spray with cleaner or should I be scrubbing them or scraping then somehow also? Also, how long do you let then dry before plugging them back together and trying to fire it up? All the cleaners have warnings on them. I started this weekend, did the front drivers relay and fuel pump connectors on that porcelain block up there, many more to go.

We are on the same plan then... I have a message out to the guy on cherokeeforum for volvo injectoes and I've started the mods from your list and will continue through them...

Awesome!

Sounds good, I found the right size nice feeling hose from napa, it was labeled as windshield washer hose. I'm going to stick with it, just wanted to double check.

That's what I thought, new oem cps installed last weekend, didn't fix it..

So I have an update... I let it sit just now for 6 hours and it fired right up. 2 seconds, because of renix, and it was running great... So it's something about when it's warm, not cranking well, or take like 7 seconds to crank...

Sorry, I meant firing up. If I let it set for 2 days, it fires up everytime in 2 seconds... If I try to crank within an hour or up to the next morning, it's like 7-8 seconds. Why would it learn faster on initial fire up after sitting two days?

So I've been trying to track down a cranking issue. Most people have slightly different issues than me. If I don't drive the car for a full two days, it cranks right up every time in 2 seconds... I want this all the time if I can get it. If I let it sit for an hour, few hours, even wait until the next morning, it takes 7-8 seconds, maybe longer, to crank. Does always crank, stumbles for half second, then iac pushes idle up and then back down. At this point it runs a little rough, I give it gas, and it seems better. I've done all the main grounds from cruiser tips. New map sensor, oem, with new tubing I made with brake line. New oem cps Full tune up, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter All new vacuum harness, replaced leaking vacuum canister from passenger fender, relocated it with shorter new vacuum lines Checked tps and iac, had another comanche around and threw those on there to see if made any difference. I haven't done tps adjusting from cruiser tips yet, it's on my list... Replaces egr with oem new egr... I let it prime for 3 seconds before cranking, helps a little, but still have issue. I plan to order volvo injectors, do the cps drilling trick from cruiser, and finish ground work from cruiser tips in the harness, and adjust the tps.. Also, it does idle a little rough. Not bad, drives great, but I can feel idle drop a little and come back u0, maybe 50-100 rpm... again, don't think it would ever die, just a slight stumble and recover, for like 1 second, only at idle. Thanks for help!

So I needed some 5/16 radiator overflow hose to hook up my overflow bottle. I went to every parts store... A couple had small 2 ft packages, but most had nothing. I did find at Napa some 5/16 washer fluid hose, which seemed perfect. I did some searching and see lots of people sell hose that says washer fluid, vacuum, or radiator overflow... This hose did not say that... I used it, it was all I could find... I'm curious if it will last or do I need to order and replace it with some 5/16 radiator overflow hose from Amazon or somewhere?

So I started on the ground tips from cruiser today... These are probably stupid questions, but here we go... I moved the battery ground to be with the sensor grounds on the block, is that fine? Side note on that one, I removed the stud to really clean things up and when I took it out, there was white powder on it, and it had a really strong odor, like a chemical smell. I cleaned it all off and removed it from the hole. Any ideas what that stuff was? Also, even with my smallest ratchet, stripped the nice star end that you use to remove/tighten the stud, guess if I ever have to take it out again I will be double nutting it... Next is about the firewall ground. I got the new #4 gauge wire and attached it to a heat shield bolt on the intake manifold, I assume I did this to the right location? The main question was it seemed like it was going to be a pain in the butt to get the rear head bolt off to remove the old ground strap, I couldn't get a tall socket on that bolt, so I just left it attached. Here is my extra ground on my battery just for fun...

So the Volvo are plug and plug, nothing else needed to put them in, and no new fuel pump or regulator? If so, I'm in... I am sending a PM to Programbo now...

I want to replace my Fuel injectors. This is a 89 4.0 Renix... I've read that Cruiser says the Volvo ones are the best 0280155746 http://www.ebay.com/itm/200902253274?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I've also read the flow is not right and you should use the Bosch ones, I think they are (0280150943) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Yr-Warranty-Bosch-Upgrade-4-Hole-87-90-4-0L-Jeep-Inline-6-Fuel-Injector-Set-/131566828419?hash=item1ea1fe7b83&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true I know people like the ones from this guy. http://precisionautoinjectors.com/collections/jeep-injectors/products/bosch-3rd-generation-4-hole-upgrade-ev6-fuel-injectors-for-1987-1995-jeep-4-0l-engines I think those are the same as my second eBay link... I keep reading different things though. Some say you need more fuel pressure, or a different regulator, or to change sensors, or to tune things differently, etc... I've got a leaking stock injector and some are clogged and figured I should upgrade. I'm looking for plug and play, no down sides, would get stock OEM ones, but they are more expensive and prone to leaking, so that seems stupid. Not looking for performance enhancements or anything crazy, just good running better than factory, plug and play injectors. Thoughts?