dkmcgowan

I got some 3/16 brake line, a tube bender, and a tube cutter. I made up a nice piece that fits pretty snug. I believe I have no more leaks at the MAP sensor. I also replaced the MAP sensor with a new OEM one as well. Still working through some issues, but this weekend I'm doing cruiser tips 1-6!

I have the parts book, it's listed as 53004623 for the entire assembly, the plastic piece all along the firewall, etc.. I just need the rubber end pieces... Was hoping someone had already found something that fit from some other application.

I'm looking for a replacement air cleaner hose. I have the two harnesses you can purchase, but this hose is separate. This is the hose that goes from the air cleaner, all the way across the back of the firewall, to the passenger side to hook into the vapor canister. It's a U shaped style hose, but the generic section is no luck. I also need the hose on the other end that goes from the big plastic piece to the vapor canister, it's larger on one side than the other.

I'm gathering all the parts to convert my 2wd auto to a 4wd manual. I have the correct flywheel and clutch, but I'm curious if I will need some new bolts? With the bolts that hold up the current flexplate work on the new manual flywheel? Do I need some new bolts for the clutch? If so, can you order them somewhere or do I need to head to the pull a part?

Might tap it, but will try the 3/16 brake line first, it's probably slightly larger and might seal up better.

Does anyone make a new grommet?

What do you mean by proper connector? Is it just a hole on the throttle body or is it a vacuum nipple? The rubber piece shoved in there right now with the hard line stuck in the middle of it's kinda worn out, worried that when I pry it out of the throttle body it might fall apart on me...

I need to replace my map sensor hose. It is a plastic tube that it plugged into the throttle body and then goes to the map sensor on the hood. I can pull the plastic piece out of the throttle body and the rubber piece stays on the throttle body. It's like it has to places for hoses to go in, but only the bottom is used. I did read the top one is plugged so no worries there. Can I just pull that rubber piece out of the throttle body? What's behind it, is it a hose connection so I can just use regular vacuum hose to replace it?

I was hoping one would be for the 4wd indicator light. This is an 89 Comanche that was 2wd... I about to convert it to 4wd and I have the connector on the transmission ready, but need to figure out where the wires are in the harness. I need to get into the electrical schematic, they should be in the harness somewhere... If I take the dash out I see just a single connector on the indicator lamp panel, they are not separate... Thanks!

I see these two unconnected wires near the fuse box, neither are hooked up...

so if you go to the newer style, where do you hook the vacuum too on that top nipple? Just manifold vacuum or something? Mine does not have that right now.

The vapor canister that came in my 89 Comanche is: 33002870 It's the two port style. One port went to gas tank and the other port went to the top of the airbox in between the throttle body and the airbox. I cannot seem to find a replacement, anyone have luck? I've seen the newer style on the grand and later cherokees that are still round and would mount in the same place, but they have the vacuum connector on them. Where would I get vacuum and would I want it from intake and on all the time, or from somewhere else?

Did either of you replace new hoses all the way through the firewall, or did you cut the plastic on the engine bay side and push on fresh vacuum hose?

Perfect, thanks everyone, headed to pull a part to get a new canister tomorrow and a few other parts, then some fresh vacuum lines, and back together...

What about the check valves? Mine did not have any, I've read some didn't and they are built into the canister and I've read they all should have them. If I need one which line would it go on and what kind do I need? Also curious if the T could have been there from factory even though it was 2wd and no cruise control.

I discovered a vacuum leak today... It was related to the vent vacuum canister. The idle got better for sure, but not perfect... Do I need to unplug anything, battery, sensor, to have it reset? I ordered all new lines so I might have other leaks as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/47713-help-fixing-vacuum-canister-for-vents/

I need some help setting this up right. I think I get it, but have a few questions. I was having rough idle, then noticed my vents stopped working. Did some searching on the forums and tracked the tubes down to the passenger fender and a vacuum canister. It had tape on it with a crack, so was not fully holding vacuum, as well as the plastic line going down to it shattered in my hand from being weak. So for now I decided to just plug the vacuum from the intake and leave the rest unhooked. I plan to head to pull a part and find a new canister and mount it in the cabin like suggested here. So my questions... I had one extra line, taped to the primary vacuum source to the canister, that was not connected to anything, thinking maybe the original line? I also had a T connector in the large primary vacuum line, was this supposed to T off to something that should be hooked up? The grommet for the two small plastic lines going inside the firewall is separated from the firewall, can I push it back on somehow? Also I keep hearing about check valves. I do not have cruise, so the vacuum is only supporting the vents and the heat control system, how many check valves do I need and where should they be? Can I find check valves at the pull a part, are they different for different years? Lastly, my idle got better, I had a leak, but it's not perfect. I ordered all new hoses, so I will replace everything, but do I need to unplug any sensors or the battery to reset this thing? Here is the image showing the vacuum canister and the two lines that were hooked up to it... This is me with the extra plastic line that was taped to the vacuum line that went nowhere on either end. Here is my two connectors heading into the firewall. Is this where a check valve should be? This is the piece I'm curious if the grommet is supposed to be pushed into firewall material more or something? Here is my other connector from firewall that connects to a new heater valve control Here you can see the main vacuum source going to to the intake manifold. It already had the T, I just disconnected a piece and capped it for now to fix the vacuum leak.

I ordered new lines and hoses last night, so will start with that... I also plan to start the renix tips this weekend... My compression is pretty good... I didn't do a leak down test, but I did a compression test. 1 - 130 psi 2 - 135 psi 3 - 135 psi 4 - 140 psi 5 - 125 psi 6 - 125 psi

I went looking tonight for some bad hoses and I found one really bad one, broke apart in my hand. It is the one that goes from line from the throttle bottle to the air box, it's a rubber hose on that connection right before the air box. It goes all the way around to the vapor canister on the passenger side. The plastic was still good but both rubber ends were in terrible shape... I rigged some fuel line I had, it doesn't fit well but close enough, and it seems to idle better. I wouldn't think this could effect idle at all, just a vapor vent and not even a vacuum line right? I was have my hands all around the passenger side to get the hose on, so maybe I wiggled around those wires near the main sensor ground and made something work better, unless someone says the crankcase vent to the canister having a huge leak can effect idle somehow.

I know there are lots of topics on this and I have read most of them. This is my first non carburetor car I've had, so all new stuff to me. I have a rough idle. It runs better once it's warmed up and it's idling close to 650-700, but still just feels rough when in the cab. I can feel a little stumble every once in awhile, but not too bad, and just running a little rough. The other symptom is when it's cold, it's kinda hard to crank. The few second delay is the renix system, but I have to let it crank for a few additional seconds and then it will turn over, a pump of the gas helps it out. If it was an older car I'm use too I would say the choke was not working correctly and/or the high idle cam was not properly set, but I don't think this vehicle has either of those. It cranks right up when it's warm. With the rough idle if it was one of my older cars I would say I just need to tweak the idle/mixture and curb idle, double check timing, and triple check I have no vacuum leaks and I would smooth it out just fine. It's not that far off, but I don't really have fine adjustments like I'm use too... Another clue is it was idling very high, like 1k RPM, and fluctuating a bunch. A friend tried another IAC he had on another Comanche, no change, then tried the MAP sensor from the other Comanche, no change, then checked the vacuum line to the MAP sensor and blew it out with air and it was clogged, unclogged it, plugged it back in, unplugged battery to do a reset, and then the idle came down and it started running much better. I feel it can run even better though... Compression is good on all cylinders. Another clue, once you are off idle, it runs great, accelerates fine, no dead spots, no sputtering, nothing, runs great... I will add, the idle isn't bad, it runs, never feels like it's going to die or anything, isn't surging, just feels a little rough. I plan to do all the "renix tips" from cruiser, but was curious what people thought it might be? I was going to do #1 and check the ground this weekend by the dipstick and try to adjust the TPS. I was also thinking about just getting new vacuum hoses, but so far I can only find a Dorman aftermarket one with mixed reviews... The other thing I was thinking was a leaking EGR, those suckers are $150 Thanks!

I am curious as well. I just run without it. Conversion post in the link in my sig I have 91 this was one of the few things it wasn't prewired for. The harness from the 96 aw4/231 combo had the plug wired for it (the two extra wires in the trans plug) I bought a new indicator switch which is on the tcase plugged it up ran two wires from trans plug under hood to dash and boom works like a charm. I have 91 wiring fsm if needed. If you don't have existing wiring on harness just find indicator switch at tcase and run wires directly to dash. When you ran the two wires to the dash, did you have some wire or connector already there? Does hte 4wd light wires already come through the firewall but just into the main plug, or did you have to pull the dash and find the indicator and run new wires? Did you have solder onto points or is there already some sort of wire there? I assume the switch on the t-case has one power wire and one signal wire or do you just run 2 wires from the switch on the t-case to 2 wires on the back of the dash light and your done, no extra power or wiring needed? thanks!

Same here!

I'm looking for a bellhousing to put up to an AX15 I got from a 94 Cherokee. It will be mounted to the 4.0 in my 89 Comanche that currently has an AW4. I've seen one or two on eBay that are for a YJ, which I think is the same, but figured I would check here first. Thanks!

Sweet, looks great

I'm looking for a clutch/brake assembly to put into my 89 Comanche for an auto to manual swap. Thanks!