91MJdude

Got married, figured I'd let the photographer take a professional photo...

went riding atvs and camped out in the pop up a few weekends ago with my big brother, who used to be cool and had a 5.9 comanche... now hes got a tundra, guess baby couldn't ride shotgun in a MJ? lol

just completed what TV would call a payoff... drove it to Kure Beach to go fishing and use the 4 wheel drive some. took it out on Fort Fisher (south end). caught some fish, didn't get suck, jeep does great in the sand even with Mich ltx. Had to ditch the bfg rugged terrains ( way to noisy) for my liking being my daily driver vehicle. also had to get full coverage on it to feel safe driving it. here are some detailed pictures of how clean it is... for now new cowl seal and cleaned up and waxed cowl. newer style handles painted with trim black, new gaskets behind lock cylinders. waxed door jambs, didn't opt to get painted because the paint was in decent shape. paint match is good with the ppg single stage. cleaned my interior to get all body shop dust out. well there is most of them. I'm sure thats enough. Thanks for looking.

well I have finally got my jeep painted. almost feels complete, which it will never be totally, always upgrading and fine tuning. I work all the time now and have not enough time to do stuff to my jeep and post pictures like I used to. Let me know what y'all think.

Been a long time since I've updated, here is a recent pic with my new to me topper that I am undecided on color, almost like the color thats on it... Have done a lot since my last post in 2010, 4wd swap with external slave ax15, np231, front axle from WJ with sway bar and kevins trackbar, rustys lower adjustable control arms, jk wheels, 265/70r17 BFG tires. still have to get truck painted, Thats staying red for sure 220k and counting strong... easily getting 18-20 mpg mixed driving even with 4 wheel drive conversion.

get your hands on an extractor set, will come with a few different size drill bits and extractors, drill in the center of the broken stud almost all the way through, farther you go the more tension it will relieve, lightly tap the extractor in the hole and turn it out. the extractor will tell you what size bit you use. i suggest using a the extractor slightly smaller than the bolt itself, not the smallest one in the kit. also hammering on the broken stud will help loosen it with vibration. good luck! if that don't work drill it the same size as the bolt and re tap it, but you have to make sure your right in the center of the bolt.

thats just awesome!

Yeah I think we are going to try that, I have been searching around on the net, and they run into this same problem on the Tj's when they swap in different engines, most run after market gauge pods, but some had written novak conversions will modify your gauge cluster or something to pick up the tach signal. never got a definite answer so i email them last night. alot more info about the issue though on pirate4x4 and naxja. also found a script confirming what I'm thinking: "Your gauges receive all of their input via the CCD Buss. 2 wires carry the signal from the OEM PCM to the gauge cluster for oil pressure, vehicle speed, engine rpm, voltage. From the FSM: Quote:INSTRUMENT CLUSTER Two basic instrument clusters are offered on this model: low-line or high-line. Both clusters are electromechanical units that utilize integrated circuitry and information carried on the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) data bus network for control of all gauges and many of the indicator lamps. Quote:TACHOMETER The tachometer gives an indication of the engine speed in revolutions-per-minute (RPM). The instrument cluster circuitry controls the gauge pointer position. The instrument cluster circuitry calculates the proper gauge pointer position based upon an engine speed message received from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) data bus. The PCM uses an input from the crankshaft position sensor and internal programming to calculate what engine speed message is required. The PCM then sends the proper message to the instrument cluster on the CCD data bus. The crankshaft position sensor is a hall-effect sensor installed near the rear of the engine, where it is aimed at the trigger wheel attached to the rear flange of the crankshaft. Refer to Group 14 - Fuel Systems for more information on the PCM. Refer to Group 8D - Ignition Systems for more information on the crankshaft position sensor." only thing is if I splice that wire, is it going to disrupt the signal going to the computer running the engine. it is well worth a shot, just have to get a day to tinker around with it. Considering my brother is getting married next weekend, (360MJdude) the one that owns the jeep. you can see it in this picture, we would still like to add some gussets that connect to the bottom side of the frame to make it more triangulated. also incorporate a steering box brace. just have not gotten there yet to redesign. https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/834333 you can also see here where the lower mount for the radiator is, acts as a cross member for the frame as well. It was all a tight fit, but we wanted that radiator since we knew it was designed for that engine, no matter what it took to fit it. we have almost 2k miles on the setup everything and it seems to be working as it should, well except for the transmission. but its holding in there.

That thing is SEXY!

yes that is a dana 35. you can tell by the cover shape. just have to know from experience or pictures online also your proportioning valve rod is on wrong! the rod is suppose to be in the vertical position :) mine was the same way when I got it. you will be surprised how much better your brakes will work now!

yeah, me either, i though it would pick up a tach signal from the neg side of the coil but it didn't like that on this one. if it was that easy all we would need is one signal converter. but the computer only supplies ground for the coil which would give a tach reading, and only way it would supply ground is if it had signal from the crank and cam sensors. then it sends info through the can bus wires (the twisted ones) to the gauge cluster. its not like a separate wire for the each individual gauge. the cel would always be lit because we are not running an egr. so no light is the way to go, for now... I have a scan tool so i can check all the sensors and read the codes if there are any other than the egr and also the cel would always be lit because the 99 computer wouldn't be getting signal from half the sensors so it would always be on. we would have to have double sensors for every circuit, lol it gets complicated, real fast

could you convert the signal from both the cam and crank with the same unit?

we have looked at them, its just not worth it for the tach to work.

no its because we took the bulb out for the cel. the computer doesn't think its running because we don't have the signal wires for the cam or crank sensors hooked up, although it would register wrong anyways since it would be 8 pulses instead of 6. that is where lies the big problem, we would need some kind of signal converter before the computer for it to accurately comprehend and think it was the 6 cyl. for both circuits for it to give the gauge cluster a tach reading. might as well make a custom gauge pod in the new dash, with a tach that works off the negative side of the coil. all in all if you going to run the new dash and want all the gauges to work properly, you need to swap everything and run the same engine.

New header gaskets makes for no leaks and great sound! almost finished interior, still lack window switches, B pillar lights, painting the blue plastics gray. The seats are nice, but since they are all power and heated they have a little more thickness to them. feels like your riding higher than you really are. still plenty of head room though. Taurus 2 speed fan with DCC controller, new turn signal and running lights... Found a emblem for the tailgate, soo sweet still need to paint the bumper and Fabricate a hitch engine bay is pretty much finished except for air-box and charcoal canister

liner looks great! do you have a side shot now that the bed liner is rolled over the top?

ahh... okay. I forget your doing 2wd. yeah, should have plenty of room for dual exhaust. you will see when u set it in the engine bay the first time, the rear of the block will be 1/2 inch off the firewall, and the sump of the oil pan ends up being 2" or so rearward of the axle tube. then just fabricate some mounts and your all set. should fit under the stock hood. depends on carb and spacer. looking forward to seeing it run!

there is an upcountry package springs for the grand Cherokee that are v8 spring rate and 1.5" taller, but for the price u can just get reg v8 GC springs and coil spacers. also the summit brand block hugger headers are a good fit, with only minor sledge hammering to the passenger side frame rail. they come uncoated but for 119.00 they work great for mock up and if painted right should last a few seasons. there will be plenty of room between the front of the engine and radiator area, so just go far enough back with the engine until the oil pan will clear the axle tube + 2 inches back. we have slight trouble with the y pipe we made when the driver side wheel tucks, the differential housing contacts the tube. although this isn't a problem since its street driven. just something to watch out for when you make the exhaust. whats your plans for the cooling system? what side is the w/p inlet on and thermostat on?

just pull it up hard, hit it up with the palm of your hand.

yep, new intake from a 01 Grand Cherokee.(of course its never good enough so I poweder coated it sliver) $25 Made sure I cleaned the ports real good. Painted the stock exhaust manifold while I was there. other than re routing some vacuum hoses and a 96+ power steering pump its a direct swap. power did pick up some, not as much as other has stated because the engine is still stock other than a flow master. but it could had picked up just from the clean ports since the old intake was pretty gummy. id say 15hp tops Double diaphragm booster and master cylinder from a 96 Cherokee with 96k miles. $25 reused the stock proportioning block so I could reuses the rear prop valve that has 2 lines. Braking power is insanely good now. still need to make the adjustable rod for the rear prop valve. needles to say I love working on/improving my Jeep

close but no cigar

Game time. Can anyone tell me what has changed in the following pictures? winner gets the satisfaction of beating the other competitors first

very nice, The led's in the gauge cluster is of the coolest interior mods for the money . I put blue in mine, only thing is you can't dim them. haha, modifications are never ending, just swapped a 01+ intake manifold on mine last weekend. i try to space them out since I still drive it everyday. You going to the auto-fair this weekend?

update : it spins one tire really really good, haha