Comavalanche

Never mind. Autozone had the correct sized seal...

Has anyone ever done this job and could tell me what supplier of seals they used? I need to replace the seals where the steering column mates with the steering box. I just got the steering box out along with the old seals and the OMIX ADA kit I purchased came with too large of a seal.

X2 on the pool noodles. I sold a sun visor for an XJ and shipped it by using pool noodles on every side and then a few across the top. Then I used three medium size cardboard boxes, two of them for the sides, then cutting the third for the middle section and taping it all together. I do the same thing for my surfboards when flying. I figured it's fiberglass so it should work. It went from Florida to Pennsylvania in one piece.

Could you point me in the direction of what are you going with as far as replacement rockers? I will be attempting to do the same work here in the next few months. I have floor pans that I am going to make work but have yet to find a decent set of rockers.

The $40 special

Thanks Eagle- Just ordered a new dizzy sensor along with a Mopar CKPS. Going to pick up a new cap & rotor and ignition coil as well. I will start swapping the new parts and seeing which of these fixes it. I will update this when/if I fix the truck.

1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0 AW4: My truck died abruptly in the middle of traffic yesterday morning and then would not fire no matter how much I cranked it over. After work, I went to Autobone and bought a new crankshaft position sensor (Per my research it appears as though I should have went to the dealership instead and bought an OEM sensor which is what I may end up doing.) After installing the new sensor my truck fired up instantly. I took it once around the block and then figured all was well. Today, I drove my truck to work and it started miss-firing, jerking, sputtering and wanting to die when idling. I had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldn't conk out. I have a Renix Engine Management unit plugged in and I noticed the ignition timing was sporadic, jumping from 14 to 20 degrees and every number in between when idling at red lights. Does this sound like a bad sensor out of the box? Did I get boned by Autobone?

Just pm'd you.

I have been scouring the forums for a write up on this but can't find anything. Does anyone have pictures on this specifically? I don't see how the floor brackets of my bench seat will mount to the tracks of the 97+ buckets as the brackets are not wide enough. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

Had the same issue on my 88. The TPS was giving a reading on my REM that the throttle was partially open even when the truck was at idle. I noticed a ground wire that was frayed and exposed. Wrapped it with heat shrink and it fixed it. Also sprayed brake clean on my throttle cable and linkages for good measure. Do cruisers tips before you waste any money. Ask me how I know.....

Just put in the new NTK sensor. On the first start up the truck went into closed loop with no problems! I’m going to monitor it closely going to and from work this week to see if it starts doing what the Bosch did. Thanks guys!

Alright just ordered an NTK sensor. Will report back on Tuesday.

Thanks I’ll mess around after work tomorrow to see if the relay is shot.

I got a Bosch off rock auto

I have an REM that’s how I can see it just dumps fuel when it goes into closed loop. Sometimes the o2 voltage doesn’t budge at all.

Every time I start my truck, once it goes into closed loop, the short term fuel trim immediately maxes out. It starts to stumble and almost stalls then recovers by going back to open loop. It does this two or three times before finally staying in closed loop. Sometimes it just stays in open loop the whole drive. I replaced my O2 sensor which fixed the problem but it failed after a week or so. I get terrible gas mileage so I would love to figure out why my O2 sensor failed so quickly...

Do you have vent windows that can open? Mine were leaking. Water would go inside the door/down the door card and end up on the floor.

After multiple attempts of dealing with the CAD and having it fail (installed the cable deal and it still failed when I went camping last weekend) I went a head and bought a one-piece shaft from a 1992 XJ-or at least I think I did. My junkyard I go to wouldn't sell me just an axle shaft, so I picked one up off of eBay. When I went to install it, I noticed the shaft diameter was slightly larger than the two-piece shafts. It was too large to fit past the bearing/seal that sits just left of the CAD. If I knock the bearing/seal out, will I be good to go? Anyone else experience this? Bleepinjeep has a "how-to" video on this, but the shaft he used fit through the bearing/seal for the CAD without a problem. This was the only shaft option I could find without buying a brand new one, I don't care about beefier u-joints or anything I just want reliable 4X4 for light weekend wheeling/camping.

Thanks for the quick replies. The bolt is long gone, so zip ties it is!

Noticed the other day that this line was hanging down from my truck. I traced it to the rear of the AW4/t-case area. Cannot seem to find where it belongs to. Can anyone help me out?

Wow I feel like an idiot. That was exactly my problem. Somehow it just came unplugged. Thanks!

My power steering pump went out on me the other day so I replaced it myself. This was my first time doing this and ended up not putting the pulley back on all the way. I ended up shredding my belt after driving only a few miles. I made it home with no belt then shut it off when I got home. It happened so close to my house that it didn't over heat. It started back up and ran fine when I drove it into my garage, also with no belt. I got the pulley on all the way and put a new belt on it. Now when I go to start the Jeep it runs for 2-3 seconds then dies. Is there any correlation here, or could something else unrelated be going on?

If y'all are like me and your Comanche has had quite a few PO's, it's likely that some hackery has gone on. I figured I'd make this post in case anyone is having trouble with their Oil and Temp gauges even after replacing the sensors for the correct sender units. It took me a while to find a cable-driven instrument cluster in the junk yard, but I found one out of a Renix Cherokee. My instrument cluster was the one that had dummy lights. One PO thought it would be a good idea to use autometer gauges instead of a cluster swap. I hated these gauges because they didn't fit properly, looked bad, and the trans temp and oil pressure gauges didn't even work. The plastic cover was also cracked in multiple spots. First I took the instrument cluster out. (Check out the holes cut out wider and the autometer gauges ground down on the bottoms for fitment...) Once I had the cluster out, I found connector "A" (the one that connects to the middle of the cluster) For people who don't want to splice into the factory harness, this part is where you stop reading lol I didn't want to at first but since whoever owned this truck before me went bats***t crazy with splices and extra wiring I figured it doesn't matter at this point. Using the electrical wiring diagram from the FSM posted in this section of CC, I found that pin 2 (light blue wire) is for the oil pressure sender, and pin 14 (violet wire) is for the engine temp sensor. There are two violet wires going to the same pin, one for the sender and one to ignition. In the picture above, the top violet wire is for the sender. Now I needed to find out which wires were for which senders. "Lucky" for me, the PO wrote them down on the old cluster... :rolleyes: So at this point, I cursed the PO for doing all this extra work and splicing, while in turn becoming a future hack PO by using crimp connectors and splicing into the factory instrument cluster connections :rotf: Pink to light blue, white to violet :cheers: Then I put the new dash in and cranked it up :rotfl2: All the gauges work and I now have a tripometer! One downside is that since I have the column shifter I lost my gear selector indicator thing. But I think I can figure out which gear I am in without it :driving: And here's a picture of the wiring situation under the dash..... I call it the Ritz-Carlton of rat's nests! :doh:

Yesterday I flipped the power/comfort switch from power to comfort (I always leave it in power) and it would not down shift; it was stuck in fourth gear (AW-4). Another thread on CC said to check an inline fuse under the passenger-side dash. Mine was tripped. Replaced it then unhooked positive battery cable then reconnected it and now it's back to normal.