Comavalanche

Looking to replace this guy. What are my options? I can't find any pictures of the back of other gauges online so I don't know if what I need will work. I don't want to buy a gauge just to turn around and send it back cuz its not right...

:rotf: drain rooster haha! Petcock might have worked ;)

I converted it to the open system right after I bought it because I drove it to school on a hot day and it turned it into a geyser :doh: The canister does its job fine, I just thought it was odd lol

I was relocating the canister and quite a bit of coolant spilled out when I unplugged the lines going to it :dunno:

It's an automatic. The wiring under the dash is such a mess that I couldn't trace the two power wires for the head unit. Maybe I'll feel like looking for it again but I just ghetto rigged it to the fuse panel for now.

Thanks for the diagrams man. Lots of useful info!

1988 Jeep Comanche (lets go with base model since I have no clue) 4.0 I6, AW4, NP 231 Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear (have a Ford 8.8 lying around) SWB Located in Jacksonville, FL I'm one of the six driving around town that i've seen here in Jax Only mods are a winch bumper w/ winch and some KC's that aren't hooked up. It's white with blue interior and cloth bench seat with a column shifter. I drive it every day!

it's a 1988 4.0. Wiring is a nightmare lol

Lost power to my head unit as well as the BATT and PWR ACC terminals on my fuse block inside the cab. I know the head unit works because I took it out, gave it power and it tuned on. Not really sure how to fix this issue...

Just had the same issue. Turns out it was my exhaust hitting against the crossmember. Loosened it at the flange, moved it away and then tightened it up and it was good to go.

I bought a 13mm deep socket today and burped it. Temp gauge pegged a little over 230 after driving around my neighborhood so I drove it home and shut it off. Sounds like i'm SOL :doh:

Yeah they both screw on almost perfectly.

I'll look for a little bottle for that hose. And I bought both caps- the blue Volvo one and the one meant for the truck. Both didn't seem to help keep pressure in so I assume it's something else.

So I recently purchased a 1988 MJ 4x4 Automatic AW4 with the "closed", "pressurized", "radiator cap-less" whatever you want to call it cooling system. Drove it on the highway for quite a ways after I bought it. Everything was peachy and I was grinning from ear to ear since my first car was a 1999 Cherokee (I still have it as it's my DD). Ever since I knew these trucks existed I wanted to own one. I finally saved up some cash and I bought it. I drove it to school a few days later and the thing puked coolant all over the ground. I limped it back to my house with the heater on full blast. This time no puking and no boiling of coolant in overflow tank. It now overheats at idle within 15 minutes. BUT here is the plot twist: PO had put an inline radiator cap on the upper radiator hose with a smaller hose running from the cap which hangs down and is open (a little bit of coolant came out and almost got into my eyes). So now I am sitting here researching everything from "burping the renix's cooling system to "open cooling system" conversions and blown head gaskets/cracked heads. Question is: Could this setup that the PO had put in be letting air into the cooling system? Should I get a new upper radiator hose? I recently bought a mopar thermostat from the dealer and was going to install that this weekend.