veritas4156

Alrighty but I'm curious as to why. At first glance the passenger side appears to be the same as the driver.

I tried searching for this but I haven't quite figured out how to get a nice search result on this forum yet, so here's a question that has probably been asked a million times. So I need new doors, so I figure I might as well grab some with power locks and windows next time I go to the junkyard. Is there a controller box for these or do they just operate off the switches? I don't remember which car it was that I had but one of em had a controller box. I know that I have to get doors from a 4 door cherokee but there is also a 2 door cherokee with power windows and locks in the JY so I'm gonna grab the drivers side switch from that one so I don't have two extra switches. Anyway, pretty much my question is do I need to grab anything other than the doors? And can anyone point me to a writeup? If there is no write up, I'm gonna do this anyway and I'll post stuff once I start a build thread and I'll also throw it in the DIY section.

I'm about 98% sure that my 86 has that darker color red in it.

Wireless electricity is some crazy stuff man. Might want to get some scientists on that... I'm guessing that you mean not threaded into the exhaust. But its late and it took me entirely too long to figure that out.

I think I saw them in either home depot or lowes or something once, but that's thinking way back. Advance auto sells small sheets in taillight repair kits but they're kinda expensive.

Yep, the 91 has this problem. The 86 has bigger stuff to fix. I'll grab another sender from the JY and trace the wire and see what happens. Thanks

I'm running stock size kankooks on the stock rims. No mods whatsoever. And if you were running bigger tires then your speedo would be reading lower than what you're actually doing, and 235s instead of 215s would only cause about a 5-10% discrepancy.

Alright, so here's the deal. I had a suspicion that my speedo was off, so today I decided to do laps around the local college campus where they have a ton of those YOUR SPEED IS signs. So I hit a bunch of the signs and they all read pretty much the same thing. I got these results Speedo:Sign 30:25 25:21 35:29 So it seems like my speedo is reading about 25% over the speed that I'm going. Seems like everything is original on my truck, and seeing that it only has 56K miles(or possibly 44800?) I kinda believe that everything actually is original. I got a ton of receipts from the previous owner for work he had done(and he's had the truck since 12k miles) and they're pretty much all for oil changes and tune-ups. No major work. Any suggestions?

My 1991 has the old school font/gauge cluster I believe. I'll take pics and post them so you guys can verify. I'm not 100% fluent in MJs and XJs yet, spent the past few years with YJs.

But if you do the internal, they're wicked expensive. Autozone has them for cheap but they're kinda shoddy. Most parts stores pricematch as long as the warranty is the same.

You guys are pretty good. Problem is that the AX4/5 are tough to get at the local pick and pull but I'm sure I can find one given enough time. Problem is I really want to have this done by the first snow, which is normally by the end of October around here. If I need to I wouldn't mind using a T5. Any idea if the 207 or 231 tcase will bolt up easy to these? I have both TCs laying around in the garage, and the T5 is infinitely easier to find. The only other question I had is about the flywheel. I know the 2.8L is externally balanced, so I know I have to be a bit particular with getting a flywheel for it. I work at an advance auto parts and apparently we can't get the flywheels. One out of an S10 should work, correct? I

I bought a 2.8L comanche with a seriously leaky tranny, and as I'm pulling this thing, I'm thinking why rebuild it and replace all the seals if I can replace it with a manual, which is what I really want anyway? I hate automatics. Despise them. Simply because I feel like I'm not in control of what the truck is doing. So if I were to replace my automatic with a manual, I need to find out what bell housings I can use, what manual transmissions I can use, and what transfer cases will bolt up to these transmissions, and any particular info on driveshaft modification. So far I've come up with two transmissions that should work, either an AX-5, or a T-5. I think on Monday I'm going to take a trip down to the junkyard and see what's available in the S10s and Comanches that are down there, and pick up a comanche pedal setup. Anybody have any more information for me or a link to something? Thanks in advance.

Sweet build. Got any pics of the fighter?

pull the number one piston and block that jug with a block of wood. you now have a 3 cylinder comanche for extreme fuel efficiency.

So since you guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable on trannys, I have to pull the tranny and replace the seals on my 86 2.8L auto. Picked up some B&M trickshift synthetic ATF on clearance at advance auto awhile ago, and I'm assuming it will be okay. Any opinions? And any tips and tricks I should know before pulling this particular tranny? :hijack:

By budget I mean I don't wanna pour five grand into this truck. But then again it is an AMC Jeep, and I do have a huge junkyard nearby.... AMC.... All Makes Combined.... from the factory, and then again by me...

Alright so I'm the new guy. In case you didn't catch my first post on my build thread, I've been wheeling for years and spent the past year and a half working on my YJ(which is for sale btw...). Anyway, I picked up a rusty old beat up 86 manche as my next project, with the oh so wonderful 2.8L and auto tranny. Since I'm new to the whole MJ thing, I was wondering if you guys could give me some suggestions on a topic that is bound to start a debate. I'm looking to build a somewhat capable DD, but I want to keep it low, for fuel economy(yeah right...) and because I need to be able to get my motorcycle in the back and I don't want to lug a ramp around with me. Basically I want flex and fat meat with less than a 4 inch lift. 33s or 35s will do, lots of cutting is in store(body is rusted to hell anyway), and I'm gonna make some nice skids up. Just going from the basics for the trail ready part, I'm gonna go with minimal bumpstops, probably throw some TJ flares on after some cutting, sway bar discos, long arms(suggest good ones for this concept please) and some heavy duty recovery points are my number one priority (once I get this MJ road ready of course).

If the pump is totally toast though, that's not gonna work.

Thats pretty cool. Wish mine had that.

Alright, so I saw this down in the junkyard the other day. There was a switch on a comanche to the right of the steering wheel that had a picture of a transmission, and above it said POWER, below it said COMFORT. What exactly does that do?

Oh and I'd like to keep this as a budget truck. So to start keeping track of my expenses: MJ $250 Billy's Junkyard Trip: $30 Gauge instrument cluster Junkyard trip: $56.75 Fuel door Spare taillights Replacement mirrors shift bezel for a 5spd(so i can make cup holders!!) AM/FM/Cassette radio(to replace my AM only original AMC analog radio... this worth anything??) Total spent to date: $336.75

So here's my story. I've always been into wheeling, and always with my DD. I bought a YJ about a year and a half ago that was too pretty to wheel. Finally I got tired of it, acknowledged the fact that I need a pickup, yet still wanted a jeep, and I spent the past year looking for an MJ in decent shape that I wouldn't mind wheeling but didn't need to do too much work on to get it running. Happened upon a craigslist ad the other day that stated "Running, driving Jeep Pickup $250" Figuring that worst comes to worst, I part it out and scrap the remainders(if the frame was broken or something) I couldn't lose. Bought this comanche, happened to be a 1986 MJ 4WD with a 2.8L and auto tranny (I HATE automatics). Fenders are rusty, cab corners are rotted, drivers floorpan is missing, no exhaust past the cab and the box is more rust than steel at this point, but the bed floor is solid, cab is solid other than the floor and cab corners, and the frame is BEAUTIFUL. Alright, so if if nothing else, I have a base. Oh and the transmission leaked a quart sitting in my driveway NOT RUNNING. But it still shifts okay surprisingly, the previous owner must not have driven it since it started leaking that bad or he must have spent a fortune on tranny fluid. Since I'm putting my YJ up for sale, I spent the past week since I purchased the comanche making the YJ perfect and dreaming a dream of what the Comanche is to become. I've done LOTS of research, and think I've finally come to a conclusion. I've decided this truck is not gonna be pretty. First off, I'm gonna fix the tranny and deal with an auto for now, replace the valve cover gaskets, strip the engine of any emissions equipment other than a cat, and get the 4WD working. Next step is to strip the carpet out of the interior and fix the floor. Following that, I can start on the outside of the truck. Don't hate me, but I'm gonna need quite a few cutting blades for my grinder. TJ flares for the front and back(unless rear flares on the comanche are bigger than TJ flares to begin with, not quite sure). That should take care of a bit of the rust on the body. The rest of the flat areas will get new sheet metal, and the bent areas get bondo. Either flat black, green, or beige all over. But definitely NOT CAMO. Ultimately for the trail capable part of this, I'd like to keep it low for fuel economy and DD purposes. I've always wanted to build a low slung, extremely flexible truck with big fat rubber. I completely understand that I will need to cut and rearrange a LOT. Basically I want a DD that can drive through woods, water, mud, sand and rocks yet still get decent fuel economy and remain simple with carburetion. Hoping to do as little of a lift as possible, most likely 3" or less, and either 33" or 35" tires. Long arms are a must. Any chiming in will be appreciated as to suggestions for flex because I'm new to the coil spring thing for wheeling. With reference to the drivetrain, I'll keep the axles stock besides locking the front shaft. Snorkel will come sooner than later, probably home brewed. Eventually I'd like to swap in a 3.4L with eddy intake and holley carb, and probably a cheap nitrous plate system for laughs. Hopefully I'll grow balls and swap it over to a 5spd. Hell, I already have an AX-15 and NP231 in my basememnt... The other part of this build will be a decent sound system cuz I love cruising around town or the trail and just relaxing and listening to music. Probably the only guy you'll meet that has blasted his 2 12" subs and 14 other speakers in a YJ with a top down listening to Beethoven. BTW, I take criticism extremely well. Tear me apart, tell me I'm an idiot and its not gonna work, suggest alternate ideas (especially cuz I'm new to the MJ) and tell me I should be ashamed for what I'm doing. Ready, GO. Oh, and compliments are accepted too. So without further ado here are some pictures from the day I got her. Oh and BTW, that's not me. That's my greek good luck charm Vasilios. If I get stuck on a project, he comes over and the second his Trans Am pulls into the driveway, problem solved. Seriously.