88pioneer

So i stopped by my mechanic today an he said to bleed a master without using bleeder hoses, to put your fingers on the wholes and pump the brakes until you get a steady flow. I guess he means to keep them there while pumping then let go when the pedal is pressed down, much like bleeding brakes. Just making sure this sounds right before i try it tomorrow

Theres a few local places around here that sell CB stuff. I use mine a lot

nah, i'm doing it with my dad

The other cylinder was also replaced, and i guess i'll give the master a shot Wednesday. No time in between now and then :fs2:

yea i guess. I figured if the master had air in it that it would keep pushing bubbles out of bleeders, but its been coming out steady

Vac line is good, and bubbles coming up.

somethin else to check i guess, i'll see what i find

yep, did them all in order and closed the bleeder before letting go of the pedal. It just seems strange to me that it had good pressure, than just disappeared

Tried again and i'm really at a loss. Pumped the brakes, cracked them, fluid came out in a solid stream, closed the bleeder. Did it on all 4, and had good pedal pressure. Started it up and its gone, pedal to the floor, brake light on, and hardly any pressure :huh???:

ah, makes sense now. I'm going to try bleeding them again an than i guess i'll try and find hoses to fit the master

so is there a hook up to bleed the master, i'm a little confused on the explanation :dunce:

well i tried the standard way an still nothing. I didn't shut the valve when the pedal was released so maybe it brought air back in. I guess i'll try 1 more time once it gets a little cooler out. Hope it works cause this is getting :wall: :headpop:

bleeding the brakes, i cracked each bleeder one at a time, and pumped them until they were dry. Put fresh fluid in the master and cracked the bleeders one at a time again, and pumped until i got a steady stream coming out of each one.

the cylinders are in the right way, and the master still has fluid. Does this have something to do with the load sensing valve being hooked up still?

Fixed the PS drum and bled the system, still no dice. The rear prop valve is still in place, and i have read up on how to bypass it, but its not making sense to me. If someone could elaborate for me i would appreciate it. I need it done today so i can get to school tomorrow, I appreciate the help

Appreciate all the help, i guess i'll see what tomorrow brings :cheers:

:agree: Still one of the most impressive events i have been to, and Arlington Cemetery really takes your breath away when you see it in person :USAflag:

yea all those springs definitley scare me :yes: , but i'll tear into them tomorrow, and i'm pretty sure i don't have the height valve anymore. I remember seeing other posts with pictures of it, but don't remember what it looks like exactly. I'll give the search a shot on that. :cheers:

Yea i know not one of my best ideas :oops: , i was just trying to get it running again. I've never really battled with drums before, but i can see whats there and whats not so hopefully tomorrow i can get them back together, and figure out how to change the cylinder, heading to work, and out of time for today :wall:

i started losing break pedal pressure last night, and checked it out this morning. Bled the entire system, and found the PS wheel cylinder was leaking in the drum, and most of the lower internals had broken or come apart. I decided to just cap the line and bypass the brake, as they don't work very good anyway. Capped it at the T and bled the other 3 brakes. Buttoned everything back up and I get so little pressure from the pedal, i have to push it to the floor to stop. I bled them again and still nothing. :help:

The impreza 22B, still one car i would love to own :drool:

:shake:

Most, if not all pick ups come with a rake from the factory with the back end sitting a little higher than the front, so when a load is put in the bed the nose won't point to the sky, it will more or less level out. As for the shocks, they are set up like the rear with a 5/8" eye on each end which are very easy to install. The fronts are like cherokees with a bar pin on the bottom (2 bolts mount to the axle) and a stud that runs through the wheel well into the engine bay. You can stick with the front set up, but options are limited for many aftermarket shock companies. You can buy adapters to convert the front to be the same set up as the rear with the 2 eyes. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ath=13_315. And, this site doesn't give you a certain vehicle option, just measurements that you would need to figure out. It may sound confusing but once you look, you will see how the shocks are set up. Hope it helps ya :thumbsup:

a 2 inch lift, or just to level the front out? Leveling the front you can use some coil spacers, or longer coils. If wanna lift the rear, throw a full length add a leaf out back. For shocks, if you are looking for expensive, bilstein in my opinion is the best. I got mine from here http://eshocks.com/bilweb/bilsite.asp?B ... inhome.htm

not necessarily, my resistor went bad, but my fuel pump still kicked on. It doesn't keep the pump from getting power, it tells when to send the fuel. Try by- passing the resistor with a piece of wire to see if thats your problem