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Everything posted by mbwarhorse

  1. Well, how about these apples...... This is supposed to be grey! I hung the trans & T-case for cleaning and paint .... it took 2 of us to get it up there (hanging from the ceiling) All the seals have been replaced in both units.... also, the silly thing tried to kill me!! I took it down by myself & fell flat on my arse with this thing in hot pursuit! The Lord was watching out for me fellas, cause all I broke was my bell housing! This as all I have for now, Think I'm gonna go south after a bed & fender apron in the next couple weeks. Once I get the fender apron welded in, painted and engine installed, I update. Thanks for looking!!
  2. After the paint set up I got the rustproofing junk out ... I used Rusfre ..... anybody have any experience with it? 2 types.... inner panel & outer... This is outer. I hit every seam & once things are all bolted together, I'll hit it again s well as inside the frame rails as mentioned B4. The rear springs are new, and stock. I did a SOA & added a shock mount as you can see. The rear diff was cleaned, painted (Imron) and all seals & gaskets were replaces with new calipers & rotors (not shown cause they were drying at the time). I used all new fasteners, I can't ever seem to get them to hold paint ... The rear bumper is that Weston thing .... can't say I'm real pleased with it but I'm gonna let it pass... With the SOA it looks like its gonna be a little higher in the air than I wanted. Its lookin like about 6" of lift .... think thats to much for a short-box?
  3. After repairing the two spots mentioned earlier, and stripping all the tar as well as removing any loose material with a grinder, I shot the entire frame with POR15. After it set up, I hit it with etching primer, sealer and the painted it with Imron Industrial. Now, I didn't fill any pits or grind marks with filler cause I figure ... well ... its a truck...
  4. The frame is VERY solid. I stripped all the rustproofing... and in spite of what all these strippers may claim... the best tools for this job are a putty knife, heat gun & a bunch of elbow grease. aside from the tar, removing broken bolts was the next mots time consuming. The X member and the tops of the frame rails were a tad flaky.... The best way to break the flakes up was by using the pointy end of the body hammer & tapping on them (not gently).
  5. With regard to the cab floor, I removed the rotted out material back into good solid metal and welded in new steel. Then I put JB weld along the welded seam (inside and out). As we all know, POR15 LOVES rough material, I wire brushed (with a very course wheel on my grinder) all areas to be treated. After the POR15 set up, I covered the repaired area with Mar-Glass to make it pretty then topped it off by brushing on Imron Industrial paint to the repaired. Regarding the RH front fender apron..... I cut that b*$%@ out..... Know where I can get another one?? Regarding the frame, I patched the two cut-outs in the same manor... new steel, JB Weld, then Mar-Glass. As the frame was absolutely covered in rust proofing, I had hours & hours of work ahead of me.
  6. I pulled the truck in the barn & started stripping her. The bed is shot. Could have been repaired had it not gotten backed into. Its a shame to as the bed floor is beautiful!! Aside from the known damage to the rockers, The drivers floor pan was sad looking. It could have been much worse but it wasn't as nice as I thought it was. The passenger side was still very solid. I hug it up & went over the frame with the pointy end of my body hammer & found one thin spot that needed repair. I removed the material & was surprised as to the amount of junk INSIDE that frame section there was. I bet I pulled a half gallon of #@$ out of there. As I intend on coating the inside of the frame with POR15 then rust proofing it I thought it best I open up the other side & clean it out as well. I bet that stuff turns into a big sponge in there holding moisture!!! The battery tray was beyond repair..... That panel is proving hard to find in good shape so any insight would be most appreciated!!
  7. Hey all, I purchased this rig about 5 years ago as a 2wd 4.0 with the 5 speed and buckets. A few years back I put 4wd under it, rear discs & about 4" of lift with 31" MTR's. We drove it up until last year when it got backed into & the insurance co gave me fits. So she sat for about a year. Unfortunately I have too many jeeps now & sumthin has to go. Sadly its the Comanche. So I'm going thru her, making her decent again & selling her. Funny thing, I started work on her B4 I snapped any pics.... (I know...) The very first thing I did was build a 4.6. I built a 383 SBC back in the day & was real hesitant to build another stroker. That silly thing cost a fortune & wasn't as strong as some stock 350's I'd built. I did some homework & talked to some trusted jeep folks who owned them & decided to take the plunge. I had a little trouble with getting the correct valve springs for the cam profile but with a little money, you can solve anything.... right?? At any rate, I'm looking to build this & sell it. I would really appreciate your input ...... Thanks!!
  8. I am currently modeling up an intake manifold that will bolt on an AMC and accept GM TPI runners, plenum, and injectors. I will have the engineering on the manifold complete in about 3 weeks and the SolidWorks model will go out for quote. I realize the AMC engine does not lend itself well to the MJ, XJ platform but many of us have others Rigs that would accept this. I'm looking for some feed back to determine how much interest there is in this intake. I currently have no idea on cost ...... an expression of interest is not a commitment to buy, but it does give me some idea of what to tell the casting house and machine shop for quantity as there is always a discount for quantity. As I said earlier, once I have the model complete I will take it to casting houses/machine shops and, with the results of your interest, be able to have an estimated cost per manifold for those interested. GM's TPI set-up has HUGE aftermarket support, wouldnt it be great to bolt on a TPI set-up that has that much support, millions of dollars of factory engineering and years of proven performance? any questions feel free to contact Craig at gr8advent@yahoo.com
  9. :( My baby is sold guys........ Thanks for the interest
  10. yes, if the rig sells w/o the box I'll sell it. If the jeep doesnt sell I plan on restoring it so I'll need it.
  11. 1989 4wd Pioneer. Daily driver. This rig was to be restored. 2" lift, 200K miles GREAT runner....... 4.0L, 5spd. I LOVE this truck but hard times forces sale. Its an old rig and has some of the normal issues, some have been repaired some not. As I said, I was driving this truck every day & given a choice I'd be driving it now & selling the Cherokee. Not an oil smoker, starts every day..... Very reliable. I've collected nearly all the parts needed to restore this truck. These additional parts are available ..... rust free box, rocker panels, doors, 1 gallon of paint (base color for base clear system) plus many odds & ends. The truck has a cap & hard bed cover. I have no idea how to price this thing, I figure a good running, functional 4wd is worth at least 1500.00 so we can use that as a starting point I guess. Break my heart.... buy this truck....... Photos at Contact me at gr8advent@yahoo.com Craig @269-760-1534
  12. Two things really...... First, (stick shift guys) check the tranny fluid regularly!!! these transmissions are fairly weak but the biggest failure is caused by fluid leakage. These units were very poorly designed & are leaks waiting to happen!! Second, I've recieved more Jeeps free or nearly free because the previous owned swore they had a bad rear main seal. Even after I shared the real problem with them. Check & clean (or replace) the PCV line. (4.0). That tiny little thing plugs up & then it can't breath & starts blowing out the rear main. Those are the two biggest things I would guess (in my opinion, for what its worth) JEEP ON!!!! Craig
  13. I looked & looked & COULD NOT find one worth the effort to install. I ended up building one. If you have found a supplier, please please pass that info on!! Craig
  14. I was a Chevy man well into my 30's (closet Jeep lover). Always had a CJ but drove Chevys daily. The best thing I ever did was sell all of them. Now ALL my rigs are Jeep. (not Chryslers with a Jeep name plate). They do make a good product, I just got tired of the salesmen .... the parts guys who couldnt identify a part even when it was sitting in front of them. The last straw was when I was looking for a Borg/Warner (3 finger) clutch & the guy ..... kid..... behind the counter looked at me as if I were from mars...... telling me it didnt exist..... how many years did they use that clutch???.... 20...... maybe 30 years? I sold my Z71 & started driving my J20. A couple years later I gave away my Camaro. ALL Jeeps in my garage now. In all honesty though, I dread going after parts for my 20 at the dealer cause most those kids don't even know what a J20 is...... (I showed them didnt I.... :shake:
  15. Mornin all...... I've recently added a MJ to my collection of jeeps & began stumbling accross issues you all are probably pro's at!! my Peugeot 5 speed failed within a week of ownership, I found a bad case of frame rot & the most troubling item is that funky proportining valve at the rear diff..... I've known from previous experience that that trans was junk & was expecting failure (not quite so soon though) & frame rot can be repaired with some sheet stock & a welder.... however, that valve...... I'd like to bypass it however it seems to have 2 supply lines. Whats up with that??? Any help would be appreciated Thanks
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