Kickinmule

here's a pic of the relay

Anyone tried cutting down a cherokee headliner to fit an MJ?

So installed the lower dash panel out of the donor that had the dash speakers and courtesy lamps, and wired them in. Now the factory radio sounds a better version of not horrible. Oh yeah thru the Rockford fosgate upgraded lift gate speakers into the door panels, so it really isn't that bad. Put all my kick panels back in after routing all the new door wiring harness. Then pulled the overhead console outta the cherokee. It was missing most of its fabric, but with a little fab work to shorten it, I think it'll make a great addition! I'll test the compass and temp display before I go to far. Gettin all my free stuff done till I'm ready to throw some HEC at it. HEC=hardearnedcash

Ok that brown relay is labeled "illuminated entry smart relay" " this relay must be plugged into its proper colored connector. Failure to do so shall result in system damage" Hope that helps ya.

My relay that you are looking at is labeled. I'll check it and get back to ya.

After studying multiple 92 wiring diagrams for power locks, I found that when you pull a 4 door PW/PL harness from a 92 cherokee and attempt to lay it in and it work with the swapped window and door lock motors, that you have no ground or power to the relays or power to the lock switches. So as previously stated I added the body ground to the black wire in the harness. Then I also added a power from the battery lead to both the Orange/white and Light green wires in the harness. The orange/white is power to the lock switches and the light green is power to the relays that are already wired in to the harness. This finally gave me power locks using the factory 92 harness installed in my 88 MJ. No big deal right! What is odd is that the harness, when it is in the donor XJ, must pickup ground and the 2 power circuits somewhere else in the vehicle, because it doesn't get them between the fuse box, left front door and the cross body harness to the right front door. Possibly in the rear quarter panel or rear hatch, at this point I don't care. Can't quit hitting the buttons now!

Pulled a full power window/lock harness from a '92 XJ along with the motors, switches, door panels and hardware and installed it all in my '88 MJ. The only wire that "plugs" back in is the tan power lead, it plugs right back into the fuse panel like it was in the XJ. You have to splice in a ground wire to the body from the black wire in the harness because the XJ ground was attached to body in the left quarter panel inside next to the lift gate. This will get you power windows, sadly more will need to be figured out to get the power locks operational. Haven't gotten to that yet.

Yep grounding the black wire to the body gave me Power Windows! So the motors, harnesses and switches from the '92 xj were an easy swap, even brought over the grey door panels so I'm 2 tone now. I know "pics"! I'll gettem soon. So grounding the harness didn't take care of the door locks I also swapped over, so still working on that. While I had the opportunity I also swapped the A/C controls switch unit from the XJ into the MJ and now that works as well; at least it works when I throw the toggle switch the PO had installed. Swapped in the grey dash bezel from the XJ and I like it better! Excited to have gotten some wrench time in. Hope it won't be long till next episode.

Okay thanks for everyone's input! Spliced in a ground wire from the under dash body ground to the black wire in the XJ harness. BAM! Power windows! Motor speed is good with key in accessory and great with running engine! Now- why the power door locks didn't magically begin to operate... Oh yeah because that would've been too easy. Still workin on that one.

Umhm, uh huh, ok, watching this very closely!

The relays are for the power locks. I KNEW THAT! not. Ok but there is a common ground somewhere in this harness and if i find it isolate it and connect it to body like I'm sure was the case in the xj then my circuit will be complete and viola! World Peace! Just downloaded the FSM off ebay $14.95 and glanced at the wiring diagram, this is gonna happen!

When I pulled the harness from the xj it already had to relays wired in and attached behind the kick panel on right side of the passenger side. I'm jumping to take your last pic, Don, and deduce the location of my harness ground wire and see if I can get the harness grounded to the body that way, I think that's all I need . Complete the circuit with a ground.

If you get stuck in a mud hole you can remove the carpeting and place it under your tires. i don't know if you ment that to be funny but i got a pretty kick out of itThat's Funny I don't care who you are!

window issue posted in Tech.

Hey cruiser54, it does alternate ground doesn't it? i think that is what i'm trying to figure out, where or when does the ground get "grounded"? the only electrical connection is the power supply wire to the fuse panel. which was the only connection that i know of when i removed the harness from the xj. No ground wire connection?

Ok need some help. i swapped the full 4 door window and door lock harness from the xj to the mj. Swapped the power lock actuator and the power window motor into the mj drivers door. Swapped the drivers door switch from the xj into the mj, plugged it in, plugged in the power lead to the fuse panel, gave the buttons a try. Nuthin! So of course I think well both sides must need to be attached. Yeah thats a feasible explanation(thats the way it always works in my head)! so stripped down the passenger side door in the xj and stripped the mj p. door. then instead of installing the motors and guts actually into the door, I just plugged everything in. Oh Yeah this is gonna be cool! Thats what i was hoping. But if I actually thought it was going to work- then why didnt I put it all into the mj door and then plug it in? Because it didn't... So diagnostics: I have power to the rt. side switch and power to the left side switch(pictured above). I also have power as indicated in pic below, to the window motor connector in both up position and down position. So can some one give me a clue as to why neither the window motors or the locks are responding when they are receiving power. the drivers side is completely installed but the pass side is laying on the floor board and connected. Is this a ground problem? if i install the pass side components will that connect the ground? I know the gound switches paths as buttons are pushed but where does it actually make the circuit to ground? I know others have done this swap and it was basically plug and play after the harness was swapped in. I have little hair left to pull out...

Stylin!

Ok need some help. i swapped the full 4 door window and door lock harness from the xj to the mj. Swapped the power lock actuator and the power window motor into the mj drivers door. Swapped the drivers door switch from the xj into the mj, plugged it in, plugged in the power lead to the fuse panel, gave the buttons a try. Nuthin! So of course I think well both sides must need to be attached. Yeah thats a feasible explanation(thats the way it always works in my head)! so stripped down the passenger side door in the xj and stripped the mj p. door. then instead of installing the motors and guts actually into the door, I just plugged everything in. Oh Yeah this is gonna be cool! Thats what i was hoping. But if I actually thought it was going to work- then why didnt I put it all into the mj door and then plug it in? Because it didn't... So diagnostics: I have power to the rt. side switch and power to the left side switch(pictured above). I also have power as indicated in pic below, to the window motor connector in both up position and down position. So can some one give me a clue as to why neither the window motors or the locks are responding when they are receiving power. the drivers side is completely installed but the pass side is laying on the floor board and connected. Should i be posting this in the Tech section?

Hello buttons! Bye bye cranks! Just had enough time to pull the electric lock and window harness outta the xj and then the drivers side door guts(phew! that's quite the process). Then gutted the drivers side on the MJ! Now gotta go to the Christmas parade! Man tryin to string together a couple hours right now is tough!

Pics??? This sounds great but my mind can't be trusted need pics!

Everything from the TCU plug (connector) up to the C101. All the wiring from the C101 stays, so you just plug it in. When you remove the TCU, pull the connector, feed it through the hole in the firewall (kind if a PITA) and keep the big rubber grommet attached (you will really not be able to remove it anyway). Removing the wiring harness took me about 20 minutes in the junkyard, disconnecting each sensor, component etc...and about 30 minutes took about 1/2 hour, cleaning connectors and either zip ties ot the factory wire holders. Then you'll have the correctly wired plugs to connect to the tranny plugs. Be sure to put the ground wires from the TCU on the oil dipstick ground bolt as well. Re-installing the rubber grommets was a bizzotch, helps alot if they are lubed up and warm (just like everything else in life :brows: ). When you're doing the wire swap, go to Cruiser's tips and do the sensor ground upgrade Thanks again Dude! Is that still an acceptable greeting for the Cali folks? Bless your hearts.

The factory mounted them to the lower radiator cross brace, in front of the a/c condenser. Alrighty then. More to consider...

I love them so far. They're a bit pricy, but work great offroad. The ride quality on pavement is pretty much the same as all terrains, They're super smooth on the streets. Haven't had a chance to try them out on ice/snow yet, But they've worked great so far on mud/rocks/forest trails. If i had to get new tires again, I'd deff go with the same kevlars. Good to know, thanks! Oh and cool truck!

Oh and ParadiseMJ, did you grab the entire engine bay harness or just the left side from the c101?