CobraMarty

Looks Great!! What is that TBI off of? Where did you get it? What are you going to use to control the EFI? MS? That single barrel TBI is just what I am looking for for another project.

Now the starter... -starter from autozone was the wrong one, incorrect number of teeth, returned for credit -starter from RockAuto England is very similiar and should work but doesn't hav the support bracket on the back side, will keep it for ?parts or spare -original starter taken to rebuilder and taken apart and everything bad, not ever worth rebuilding, would cost more than new one. -Ebay starter ordered from FL, looke the same, even has the bracket on the back to bolt to the block to prevent bellhousing breakage. Waiting for UPS after the christmas rush. Hopefully next week can get it all back together. Rare Jeeps...

He wasn't the cheapest, but I believe he is one of the best. He knew right off that the IP was rebuilt and was done incorrectly. He had the parts or could get them and knew how to fix the past rebuild mistakes and make it like new, test it all within new specs. The bad, $1250. Warrantied. If it is good for another 150K and 35mpg, I'm good with that. IDK how much for the VW IP but it is very similar to the Jeep's. Might also be depending on parts needed. I needed a few, maybe more than a few.

A couple of Updates. Took the IP to Miller Diesel in Harrisburg. He looks at it, takes a few screws out and says that it has been rebuilt before and it was poorly and incorrectly done. Miller Diesel is an authorized Bosch dealers/rebuilder. He rebuilt it, put it on the test bench and didn't like the ?'alignment' and took it apart and ? adjusted something and it now tests 'as factory'. Painted it black and put his name on it. They are not the cheapest, but they are the best. Picked it up and brought it home. With the IP out, the glow plugs, controller, motor mount and starter are sitting right there all accessible. Went to Quadratec for the motor mounts. Took the starter out, as it's age is unknown and if original, it has 190k on it. Sure as $#!&, in 6 months it would go bad. It is not accessible from underneath and is only accessible with the IP out. Ordered 2 starters, one from Autozone and the other RockAuto England. The Autozone one was wrong- # of teeth, direct drive, bigger, heavier, screw not spade for starter wire. Took it back for a refund. The RockAuto was close- gear reduction, but no bracket on the backside to attach to side of motor. This bracket seems necessary to support the back of the starter so that it doesn't crack and break the bell housing. So, took the original starter to a local rebuilder. At the garage that is one of the few that still rebuilds alternators and starters, I have had work done that before and know the counter guy. I bring in the starter in a box, take it out of the box, it is oily from a leaky rear seal, and set it on the counter and tell him I maybe need it rebuilt. Another guy behind the counter, 10 feet away looks over at it and says 'It's from a Renault'. Of all the car names he could have said, he says Renault. Then he comes over and looks at it. He says when you have been doing this for 40 years you get to know your starters. He says he will clean it up and look it over and rebuild what he thinks it will need, if anything. I definately think he is the right guy for this job. Come back in 2-3 days. WOW! So still need to pick up the starter, install the starter, motor mounts, glow plugs and controller and then finally install the rebuilt IP. Miller did say to always use a diesel fuel additive, as today's diesel fuel sucks and varnishs the IPs. And to never use 'grease'/home brew diesel in this IP.

Glow plugs and glow plug controller came today. RockAuto shipments from England are nearly faster than US shipments. Postage/FedEx is expensive from England. I also bought an extra set of glow plugs and extra 8 rocker arms as they only increased shipping $4. Now waiting on the starters. One has already been shipped form RockAuto in England and another one from Autozone. I will compare both to each other and to the original starter and see which one to use and which one to return or keep as spare. I ordered a 3rd starter but it is backordered until new year. I might have to cancel this 3rd starter order after I see the other 2 starters.

I called WinnebagoParts.com Terry at Mobility R.V. He was very nice and helpful. Unfortunately the Winnebago Injection Pump and Turbo are slightly different from the Jeep and will not fit and work. They have tried in the past. His winne rebuilt IP is $829 and they do not offer a rebuilding service. And the winne Turbo is $699. He does have many 'engine' parts for the engine that are the same as for the Jeep. It is the 'peripheral' bolt on parts that he doesn't have and that are different with the Jeep. He gave me the same Jeep IP part number as posted above.

I would appreciate that. I don't have that number.

Thanks. Here is what I have on the part- 1985 Jeep Cherokee XJ, engine was also in the Comanche 2.1L Intercooled Turbo Diesel J8S Bosch EPVE Fuel Injection Pump, Bosch No. 0460 494 160, Vehicle Model VE4/9F2200R183 The 2.1L TD was also in the Renault Trafic and Espace of the mid and late 80's. I tried Ebay Canada and UK. Found 4 complete XJs in England for like 1500 pounds. Wish I could find one at a breaker's yard.

Now the bad... Injection pump had been rebuilt incorrectly in the past. A shaft was grooved, parts worn, bad low pressure pump and other issues. All contributed to not working correctly. A full rebuild, done correctly and with warranty, $1245. Ouch. Can damn near buy another rusted out diesel jeep for not much more, but what would be the condition of the IP? The Jeep's 'a bucket of xxxx' without the pump.

Looks great! Did you do anything to the head?

Injector Pump is off and at Miller's Diesel for a check/clean/rebuild. Major pain in the ..., as had to pull the pulley off the IP to get it out of the bracket. Luckily I had a small 3 jaw puller in the toolbox. There is soo much room in there now. Can get to the glow plugs and starter. The starter is original 190k and looks pretty bad. Figure now is the time to change it. Can't get to it from underneath. Only access is from above after the IP is removed. Now trying to find and order one. Getting tough to find. Expensive. One place is backordered until maybe after 1/1/15. Just ordered a rebuild from AutoZone and one from RockAuto England. We'll see which comes in first and whether I keep the others or cancel them. Ordered some new glow plugs while I'm at it, $4.50each, and a new glow plug controller box and some extra rocker arms, $18each, as the additional shipping was only $4. RockAuto shipped from England. When all this goes back together, will have to re-time the cam/IP/engine/belt, again. My son is getting good at that.

Sounds Great!! How much boost and what was the torque? What is the 'recap' details of your engine build? stroker 258 crank, KB 944 pistons, ?stock head, ?stock cam, ?stock rockers?

"You are looking at a SUPER rare (1-of-only-26 in existence) Jeep Comanche pickup with the factory turbo-diesel engine." Is that really correct? MJ 1 of 26? How about Diesel Cherokees?

So more on this. It will start and stumble, not take throttle and die. Pulled the injectors and took them to Miller Diesel in Harrisburg PA and they checked them and cleaned them. They said they weren't too bad. Reinstalled and no different. Pulled the return fuel line off the injector pump and ran to a bottle and there was NO fuel coming out at all. Miller diesel said to check this and that quite a bit of fuel should be flowing as this is how the pump stays cool. NO FLOW. They thought it could be a worn pump or clogged or gunked up with varnish. Only way to know and fix is to pull it and take it to them to take apart and clean and repair/replace anything needed. Hopefully in the next few days, weather dependent, we can pull the pump and thake it to them. Can't wait to get this back running and on the road.

The Painless 68mm TB looks very similiar to the F+B TB, might even be the same. The problem with them in this application is that they are too tall. You can cut the TB side of a 90* coupler shorter but it will still have a clearance issue. The 2 rings on the TB are not really necessary. You can cut off the upper ring and shorten the height of the TB to pick up some clearance. Could probably even cut off both rings and and shorten the TB height for even more clearance.

IDK if the IP got some crud in it past the filter/separator, a bad load of fuel, or just worn out 190k. It's raining today so I don't think I will get much done on it today.

I have an aftermarket 32 gallon tank. All the vent lines are clear. I could just remove the gas cap if suspect? The tank is full to the brim so even if the hose was leaking it would be covered with fuel.

Last month we dropped the tank and changed and checked all the lines and vents. Replaced a clogged in tank filter and now have a good line from tank to pump. No leaks or vent issues.

Do you have any connections for an injector pump? I think mine took a dump. Either rebuilt or NOS. Thanks.

All hoses are good and tight. No leaks. I can easily suck fuel to the front with a hand vacuum pump.

OK finally got the fuel cut off solenoid out and it seemed to be working when I bench tested it with 12v. Maybe it gets weak when it gets hot. IDK. Took the plunger out and screwed it back in as a way to bypass it, won't be able to turn off the engine and would have to stall it to stop the engine. Started up but still not running well. It would still stall out. Got it idling longer to warm up and it was idling rough and still wouldn't take any throttle to rev out and then would die. Very frustrating. IDK, ?summer gas? bad glow plugs? Injector pump finally took a dump? What is the symptoms of a bad Injector pump? rough idle? not reving? engine dying? Now it is getting frustrating.

New rebuilt ACDelco alternator installed and 13.8v at idle. Good. Starts and seemed to start and idle fine, and then dies. Pulled the 'booster pump' out of line and re-connected the fuel line. It starts and then dies. It also was dying with the 'booster pump' in place. Called a diesel mechanic friend and he said that the 'Fuel Cut Off Solenoid' can fail and when it does it is initially intermittant and then completely fails. No way to bench test the solenoid. Ordered a new one, $35. New thought/theory is the Fuel cut off solenoid was failing 'intermitantly' all this time and also the alternator took a dump at this same time (original 190,000+ bearing failure and rebuilt AutoZone voltage regulator failure). We'll see this week when the new fuel cut off solenoid gets installed. On a good note, the General Grabber AT2 225/70 15 tires finally came in. Now need to pick them up and get them mounted and balanced.

Bench tested at Autozone and failed, output 8.4v. Was raining all day and didn't try without alt in place. Will do on taping the charge wire. There was 1 broken wire off the plug in connector. It was for the 'L'. I think that is just for the dash light. I have to look up the electrical schematic. I don't think that broken wire would have taken out the alternator.

Thanks, that is what I thought. I think that with the bad alternator still in place it is ?shorting or decreases the voltage of the fully charged battery such that it is low enought that the fuel cut off solenoid is 'fluttering' and then quits and closes and the engine dies. Today going to pull the alternator off and get it bench checked to be sure it is bad and maybe try the engine again without the alt in place and just jump 12v to the solenoid. Worth a try.