CobraMarty

What's the second solenoid? I only know of the one on the bsck of the injector pump.

Seemed to get the fuel system working fine. New stock height front and rear springs, monroe shocks, brakes, alignment, rear diff oil change. Turbine wheels installed and tires ordered and waiting. Drove about 700 miles and fuel gauge to almost empty and started to sputter so put in 25 gallons fuel (in a 32 gallon tank) and gauged showed full and was driving and it would cut off. It would start and then die. Drive 5 minutes and then die. Added a secondary rear mounted electric 'booster' fuel pump. Seemed better and then died again. Checked battery voltage and only like 12.1v and checked when running and still 12.1v. Went to Autozone and it seem that the 'New' alternator quit charging. It seems that the stalling is an electrical issue and not fuel related (will probably pull the booster feul pump out). The bad alternator must be taking the voltage down and then not enough to keep open the fuel cutoff solenoid and it dies. Autozone's supplier is out of these replacement with no future date. What, did I buy the only one they had? They will give me a refund for the bad alternator but I think I am going to keep it as a core if they are that rare. I now have 2 bad alternators, original and Autozone. I will take these to a local alt rebuilder and see what he can do. Looked on RockAuto and they list one but when I put it in my cart, they take it out of my cart as 'not available'. Found an alternator on ebay from FL, rebuilt for $100. Ordered and will see. On the bright side, this Deisel XJ looks like it will get 1000 miles per tankful!

Just ordered this, a little spendy but worth it to have a tach in the Diesel.

Alternator replaced and working well. New issue on 3 different occasions. When the fuel gets to about 1/2 tank, the engine stumbles, stalls at idle and barely runs, like it is out of fuel. Top off the tank and it works fine again. Noticed a small leak at the fuel tank. ?Sucking air? The tank is an aftermarket 32 gallon 'gas' tank. Was it installed incorrectly? Is the fuel pump in the injector pump failing and losing suction? Does it need a 'booster' electric fuel pump back at the tank? So yesterday dropped the fuel tank, found taht the leak was a loose clamp on the return line. Pulled the tank draw/return plate out of the tank and found a very dirty nearly clogged 'filter sock' on the end of the fuel pickup. Tried to source a new one and couldn't find one, so just replaced the draw tube with a copper piece and set it to 1/2" off the bottom. Added new lines and clamps and reinstalled. Apparently diesels don't use that in tank fuel sock. Changed the fuel filter/separator in the engine compartment with a new AC Delco part. Who knows how old the one in place was. Decided to give it a try before installing the electric 'booster' pump. Cranked it and it definitely self primed and started right up. Sputtered at first and then settled down to a nice smooth idle. With the 1/2 tank of fuel in it currently, before it was stalling. Took it for a test drive. Smooth, accelerated without stumbling or hesitation, seemes a bit faster, smoother and quieter that before. Drove it 30 minutes and we couldn't get it to replicate the problem it was having before. Seems fixed for now. We think that the filter sock was meant for the 'Gas' use of the 32 gallon tank and not diesel. Between the clogged filter sock and an unknown fuel filter ? clogged, these 2 things were causing enough restriction in the supply line that the fuel pump couldn't suck hard enough to get fuel. At full tank there is slightly increased pressure on hte fuel to help push it up and out the supply line. As it became close to 1/2 tank there was less pressure due to the weight of the fuel to 'help push' the fuel out. At least that is our current theory. A booster pump would have also fixed the problem but that would just be MM and cover up the clogged filter sock and fuel filter. Today tackling the brakes and suspension.

I really like the 18" rims and 35" tires. Looks awesome. With the 18" wheels, it really opens up the option of front brakes. Your rear's are ?14" rotors. You have to go 14" or 15" front rotors to keep a balance? Here is what I am putting on the front of 'RaceJeep' that we street and autocross with- 2013 Jeep GC SRT8 6 piston calipers and Shelby GT500 14" rotors (5x4.5")

What is your plan for the Brembo front calipers?

New alternator came. AutoZone #14892, Looks the same. Hopefully today my son will change the alternator, remove the front lift springs and shocks, track bar, quick disconnects, and replace with new stock height springs, monroe shocks, stock track bar and sway bar links and new front rotors and pads. Next will remove rear lift springs and shocks and replace with stock height leafs, monroe shocks and new rear brakes. Then stock 15" 'turbine' wheels, new General Grabber AT2 225/70R15 tires and then alignment.

Based on the data logging and information I calculated putting a 56mm pulley on the supercharger would settle it nicely in that lower power band. I plan on installing and tuning for the stock 58mm pulley first. I spend a bunch of time calculating before I do things since I prefer to figure out things on my own then just trust what I find on the internet. I was in the garage earlier measuring for what exhaust bends I need to order. Assuming all goes well I will be tearing it apart over the next month. I am very interested in how much boost the Sprintex makes with the 58mm pulley on a 4.6L stroker. A lot will depend on the head, valves, porting and cam. The Sprintex intake manifold will not be a restriction like a stock 4.0 intake.

Stock crank pulley is 6 3/8" at the belt for figuring ratios. Love my Brown Dogs motor mounts. No movement and locates the engine perfectly. Gibson headers fit the Sprintex manifold, I used SS ceramic coating is best. Stock '98 style will fit, not '00+ with the dual pipes. All the little things really do add up $$.

Is it true-? New Sticker List Price, in 1985, $18,657

Next latest, alternator was squeeling and thought it was the belt slipping and would tighten it and would be better fro awhile and then squeel again more. Alternator finally decided to stop charging. Now need to locate an alternator. Rockauto and Autozone show 2 different ones. One 70amp without A/C and another 60amp with A/C. Each look similiar but have different pulleys. Wierd is we have A/C but our pulley looks like the one alt for w/o A/C. I ordered both from autozone, free shipping and 20% off and can return either to local store for refund. Stock replacement springs came in the mail, need to p/u the stock track bar at autozone and then will remove the 3" lift kit and shocks and reinstall stock height parts. Will replace the 31" tires with stock turbine like rims and General Grabber AT2 225/70x15, $100 each at wally world and during Septenber $70 visa gift card with purchase of 4 tires. WIN! Tried charging the A/C and it took a vacum OK with no leaks and took R134 and then it all leaked out the bad schrader valve. Always something.

Definitely I would and I do use a larger TB before using a smaller pulley. 62mm TB at minimum. I use a F+B 70mm currently. Larger TB with More boost at lower SC rpm and lower charge intake air temps is better than restricting inlet with stock TB and spinning SC faster for more boost and higher SC rpm and higher chsrge intake air temps. Max continuous speed is 15,000rpm rating. 4800-4850 even 5000 for a second or two, I am sure intermitant max speed rating is higher than 15,000rpm. For real fun and boost, use a 49mm pulley. Did see on a cold night 12.5 pounds boost getting onto the freewayand popped a 160k mile head gasket. Replaced with MLS and new head bolts and ported big valve head and 'lost' a couple pounds boost but made more power. Need a gatorback belt and accurate belt tensioning to keep from slipping. My experience and opinions have been known to get me in trouble. Can't wait to see the Sprintex on a Stroker 4.6L. I'm sure it will be truely awesome.

Hopefully not a new issue. Filled the tank full and put on like 600 miles and just below 1/2 tank started running bad, no power and sputtering. Filled it up and ran fine. Could be crud in the tank, gel in the tank or the pick-up doesn't go deep enough in the 32 gallon tank. Going to have to watch this closely. Might need to pull the sending unit/pick-up or drop the tank and check.

It's good to see you asking about IATs, you must be close to installing the Sprintex SC. Using the Sprintex SC on a stroker 4.6L is an uncharted area. On a stock 4.0L with stock pulleys boost is around 6 pounds. With your ported, cammed, 4.6L boost might only be 3-4 pounds and at that level might only add a delta of 40 degree C to your incoming air (+102*F) on top of ambient and actual inlet tract air temp (usually 20-30 degrees hotter than ambient). Still close or above 200* IAT. With your 6 bigger injectors and AEM FIC, Cowl intake and Meth/washer fluid injection might be in your future. But I am sure you already know this as you are asking all the right questions. Look forward to your install.

Ok, yes we cranked it for a long time. Even shot in some WD40 into the intake manifold, it sort of worked then died. Probably not a great idea. We added 3 gallons of fuel and cranked and cranked and then got towed to home. Came home and tried to prime it by using a hand vacuum pump and got it all primed and cranked and nothing. Diesel mechanic friend said you will never prime it with only a couple gallons and recommended adding like 10 gallons. We went back and forth to the gas station with 2.5 gallon jug and added 9 gallons of fuel. Cranked and cranked and nothing. Loosened 2 of the fuel lines on the back of the IP and cranked and no fuel. WTF. Looked closer at the IP and right above the fuel line outputs is this sensor/solenoid looking thing with a wire coming off it not connected to anything. What the heck is that? Quick pic and it is the 'Fuel Shutoff'. No way. It is how the diesel engine gets turned off. It requires 12v+ to open and allow fuel to flow to the high pressure pump and to the injectors. The other end of the wire is hanging down barely visible. Put a meter on it and sure enough it goes 12v+ when the key is turned on. Reconnect the very loose fitting connector and give it a crank. It FIRES right up! It seems that the loose connector came loose and disconnected itself and shut off the fuel cutoff. Tightened the conector reconnect and it fires up again. Balls, this was the problem and not running out of gas. The gas gauge was just below 1/2, added 2.5 gallons and then another 9 gallons and the gauge went to just above 3/4. Can't be. Drove to the gas station and it took another 6 gallons and it was full and the gauge reads full. It is a 32 gallon aftermarket tank. So we never did run out of fuel as we originally thought. It was the wire to the Fuel Cutoff solenoid that came disconnected and shut off the fuel to the HP side of the IP, just like the key was off. Diesels are wierd. It is running good again. Getting inspected and new brakes this weekend. Did learn a lot today.

I read so much and many said that the Bosch VE pump is 'self priming'. Maybe these are just the guys who don't want to crack the injector lines. Rookie mistake running a diesel out of fuel, bone dry. Had a false sense of security with the gauge reading half full. Should have just filled it anyway, on a new to me vehicle and be sure. Stupid me. Of course it is raining now.

I usually don't like chrome grills but your's looks GREAT! Would actually look bad with body color or black grill. Good Eye.

OK, put my hand suction pump on it and primed the fuel line to the filter, out of the filter, poured fuel into the line going to the IP, vacuum to the return line out of the pump, all primed and fuel free of air. No start. Didn't crack the nuts coming out of the IP to each injector or the injector nuts themselves. They are hard to get to, seem to be 18mm and I only have 17mm and 19mm line wrenches. So I guess I gotta do the injector lines next. Arg!!

Drove it today and it died at a stop light and wouldn't restart. It is acting like it is out of fuel. Gauge says half. Tapped on tank and it sounds empty. Added 3 gallons and it still wouldn't restart. How do you prime the inj pump after running out of fuel?

Well all was well. I think the gas gauge reads wrong. It says 1/2 tank. So driving all around in it doing errands and stopped at a light and it died and wwouldn't restart. Acted just like it ran out of gas. Added 3 gallons and it sputtered and wouldn't restart. So is there a priming sequence required if you run out of fuel? Calling for a tow now. Almost back to square one. Any advice. Thanks.

Drove it a bit yesterday. Got it registered and new group 34 battery-1050CCA. Drove well on the freeway, was doing 63 on indicated 55 due to the 31" tires. Getting it inspected today. Has a few leaks- coolant from thermostat housing, radiator cap, gas tank fuel line connection, rear oil pan. Oil pressure gauge is twitchy, maybe loose connection. Should fix all these today. Ordered new brakes and stock replacement shocks. Engine is running great, THANKS EVERYONE!!

Now where do I get a 'Cold Start Thermostatic Capsule'? I think that mine is frozen, in addition the arm it acts on is also frozen. I'll keep spraying it with PB blaster and Brake Kleen and try and free it up. Where is the oil pressure sensor located? Are they available anywhere?

Now how many were Diesels? I can't find this info.

It runs and drives !! Temp stays at 180degrees, oil pressure seems bit low, might be sensor, 3/4 tank fuel (has 32 gallon tank), 10-11 pounds boost, turns really easily, brakes suck. Video on CF. New needs- Battery, brakes F+R, Ordered- rear bumper and brackets, found used front driveshaft Checked all head bolts and all were the same and tight.

Upon disassembly, the rocker shaft bridges were all OK. Interesting was 2 nuts were slightly stripped and the studs were fine. The pressure might have tried to lift the shaft and stripped the nuts. No breakage. My son reassembles everything, checked the belt timing like 10 times, set the valve lash and buttoned it up. It started and idled Horray. Now to get all the assessory belts back on, fill and bleed the coolant and take it for a spin. Next issue, the cold start ?ampule thingy is all rusted and frozen and the lever arm is rusted and doesn't move. Spraying with PB blaster for now. Need to look into this. Also the rear bumper and then state inspection and register it.