Sir Jacob the 2nd

yeah it is more frequent on slow cornering, I will check the fluid level in a couple of hours at lunch but it sounds like thats where I will start

Okay so a little late on the update, been pretty busy lately. So two days after this discussion ended my blower motor cut out all together. so I replaced it and it immediately started blowing more to my satisfaction. I then decided I would go ahead and upgrade the ground. It made a noticeable difference. Thanks for the suggestion. I still plan on installing a relay so I'll post again once I've completed that upgrade. As far as safety... will the upgraded ground be sufficient to prevent a fire or should I get on that relay as soon as possible. I just don't want to ruin my investment that I've put so much time and money into. thanks, Jacob.

Alright so as of two days ago my steering wheel started locking up like its in steering lock without the key in it. It only happens when making a sharp right hand turn any ideas?

alright so again it has been some time since I posted so here are some updates. Once everything was all back together I went to charge up my A/C... all important here in FL. Unfortunately one of my fittings was either bad or had a blockage. So I ordered new fittings that charge from the rear instead of the retarded side ported fittings and got it all worked out. Blows nice and cold, just not enough air volume so now I'm entertaining a relay in the circuit, but I digress. Now I'm starting to tackle my suspension issues, first thing I'm taking care of is ball joints, and while I was in there I figured why not replace the wheel bearings. I decided to give MEVOTECH ball joints a shot, these are their premium line. So I guess I'll find out.

Thanks Gene, yeah I actually follow that topic, but after reading through it again I didn't really see any talk of increased performance, so that was more what I was asking just so I know what to expect.

awesome guys thanks for the replies, I'm most likely not going to have time to work on it until monday because like I said its my DD so monday is my day off and sunday I'm helping a buddy stick his ax15 back in his TJ. I'll keep you posted on the results.

never added any but did the refresh when I put my truck back together

^^ that is good information to know I will give that a shot.

To me its the only logical step to improve performance shy of trying to find a motor that's from another make that works better but is still compatible (which I doubt exists). even then I would rather not go hacking things up to make one fit. I'm 100% open to any ideas that people have because its just not cuttin' it haha.

mine doesn't click either however mine only works on the top two speeds haha.

Aside from the obvious benefits (i.e. preventing a fire), theoretically, adding a relay would increase the performance of the blower motor would it not? I live in central Florida, daily here the heat index 110 so I run my a/c almost constantly. So a relay is an important next step for me as far as protecting my truck. I'm just curious if anyone has installed a relay and reaped benefits such as air volume. It cools well but the air flow is just poor, it takes 45 minutes to cool the cab down in this heat which is almost the entire length of my commute home haha. when I get in the truck at the end of the day its over 120 degrees in there so it takes some time.

When I rebuilt my motor I deleted my egr but I have the same problem tex has.

awesome thanks!

Anyone know if i currently have the system charged with 134a if I can basically evac and then recharge with the 12a or is that a big no no? I don't know a whole lot about it so any input would be helpful

If you didn't gap the rings according to factory specs, how did you decide to gap them? And why would you use anything different from what the factory specifies? I used a gap chart from a webiste that tells you how much to gap your rings based on what purpose you are building the motor for (i.e. racing, towing blah blah). All considered the difference was minuscule in how much gap I filed and factory standards.

I split mine 180, however I do have a 4.0. It was what the factory specified so rather than risk burning oil I set them 180 staggered. I didn't however gap them exactly the same, I chose how much gap I wanted and filed accordingly. My motor runs great so far :thumbsup:

Is it only once your mj is hot that you notice the issue? or does it happen regardless of hot or cold start up? Also when you say blowing out of the reservoir, is it violent like a large volume at one time or just small amounts?

I did but maybe I'll go back through and do it over again. maybe I screwed it up the first time.

My MJ idles abnormally higher than what it had when I bought it. I couldn't tell you exactly how high at this point because I have idiot lights and no tach, and haven't had the time to venture to a jy, to get some actual gauges... anyhow I have adjust the TPS as low as I can and it still is considerably too high. any suggestions?

BOTH can cause the same issue. I aligned my truck myself at the shop with the hunter alignment machine and I set it within manufacturer specs and still had the issue. Also worn ball joints and suspension can cause your alignment to be off, toe, camber AND caster.

I did have an issue when I first replaced my drivers side ball joints to rid myself of the dreaded DW, which it did eliminate completely. However since there was uneven tension from side to side since I only replaced the single side, i was all over the road until I replaced the passenger side joints as well, maybe you want to check out your ball joints and make sure one side isn't significantly more worn than the other. OR if you have recently replaced wheel bearings, double check to see that you properly seated them. poorly seated bearings can make you wander a bit

I have the same issue with mine, I DD my MJ about 60 miles per day and a good portion is open highway. The wind kills me sometimes but other than that its fine.

I would have told the machine shop to find it and pay for it, that's VERY unprofessional on their part. I attempted, they claimed that they never had it. However I KNOW they did because i reattached all the rod caps to the correct rods when i took it all to get hot tanked and such. I was fuming pissed. I have never gone back to them again and everyone that I talk to about their shop gets a good piece of my mind. On top of loosing that they "misplace" one of my main caps in their shop, and I had to go up there and find it myself because they swore it wasn't there (it obviously was). AND they never hot tanked the head or pressure cleaned the water jackets in the head, I got home with it before I realized because the head was already painted black so it looked clean... nope! Needless to say dealing with them was a TERRIBLE experience and I have turned everyone I know away from their shop.

Oh and keep track of the nuts on your rods!! the machine shop lost one of mine and i had to track down a new one. it was 6 bucks from the dealership. \

Well you don't NEED to keep anything. But I reused my rods. Everything else will pretty much need to be replaced. You need to keep your main bearing (crank) caps in order along with the bolts (unless you plan to replace bolts aftermarket).