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Thanks for the feedback, folks.

Thanks. What I am wondering is if (and how) the bad connection could have caused the resistor to overheat. Now that the connection is good, it seems fine.

Thanks Eagle but, I didn't think it was the CPS. Are you thinking that may be the cause even though it now runs ok? Over the phone the mechanic guessed that it might be the coil or ignition control module and I happened to have a spare one so I tried it, but it still consistently quit after 10 or 15 minutes. That's when I noticed and repaired the connection on the Ballast Resistor.

This is going to be pretty basic, but I hope I learn something at the least. I have an 89 4.0 manual 5 speed that is all stock. Recently, it began to quit after about 15 or 20 minutes of very light snow plowing or even idling. Felt like it ran out of gas. It would restart but then immediately quit after a few seconds. Once it had cooled down it was ok for another 10 or 15 minutes, so it seemed heat related. I changed the coil and ICM with another one I had around and there was no change. After reading up here, I looked at the ballast resistor and saw that one wire was loose although still attached and also corroded. I cleaned and reattached it, and it seems ok now. Runs like normal. So my question is... could this really have been the cause? I know that if the resistor is bad it can overheat and fail, but I don't understand how a bad connection could make it overheat. Also, because it's freezing here these days and I have very little knowledge or testing equipment, I had booked an appointment with my mechanic for next week. But for four days now it has run for 45 minutes to an hour without problems, and I feel that's a good indication that I can cancel the appointment. Is that dumb? I just don't what I would say other than it was broke but now it's not :( I'd appreciate any thoughts or education on this, Thanks

I put mine right behind the gear shifter, on the floor. I find my hand goes there naturally without reaching. Wherever you get used to it is best.... obviously :)

I guess I should have warned you, but then..... you'd be less impressed. :)

The beast the build

I am also looking at this size, but I heard they might/would rub at the front.

another Canadian added! >>> Ontario

yes, they should rotate to catch the underside of the rail.

I have no complaints with my Snap-on wrench set that's for sure!

Sorry, no idea where it's from... it was on the truck when I got it

I think the chrome was added later when the truck was repainted 10 yrs ago. Plow truck's paint scheme... hehe, yeah, when I was talking to the seller before I bought it, I asked about that, thinking maybe they had a safari park or zoo or something like that. But no, he said that he and a buddy were sitting around one day and got to thinking that it wasn't "safe" to have a white truck plowing white snow. Buddy had a good idea and grabbed a can of black spray paint. He didn't mention if there was any alcohol involved in this decision but....

On my old jeep, it's even weirder. First, the wipers park halfway and not because they are in the wrong position. The actual wiping pattern is fine when they are on. And for some reason the hi and low are reversed. ie when I turn it to Hi, they go slowly and vice versa.

Umm.. would a hot gal work as well? :)

Thanks for that feedback on the hitches. There are more options than I thought. Now I just need to find a plow set up for the front end :)

thanks folks, not too many Comanches in junk yards around here. I guess I'll look into getting one made.

Thanks.... :thumbsup: Hopefully that will make things easier. Oh, I am also needing a trailer hitch and it's the same story trying to find one.... what years would the XJ rear end of the unibody frame match?

I don't love the chrome either. Is it just glued on? I may remove the roll-bar too sometime.

I have an new-to-me 89 that I want to use for plowing my long driveway. Unfortunately the harness from my twin old truck is welded on and I'll need to replace it. Finding a used one would be ideal, but I haven't been able to yet. Looking for a new one, I find that no snow plow company makes anything or keeps stock for that age of truck. They seem to have nothing for much earlier than '95, so I am wondering if a newer XJ might have the same front frame configuration as my MJ and I could order for that instead of listening to them say "sorry but the computer just doesn't show anything for that age". So far no one using their brain and saying "I think I remember that we once used a set up from a "…" for that type of truck since they're the same" thanks folks

So, there I was, just an ordinary guy living in the boonies with a long driveway and decided to stop paying someone to plow my laneway. I found an old and very rusty MJ with a plow and bought it thinking if I can get a few years... great. Had some trouble with it and of course found this club and got some good advice and researched tips for tune-up and so on. But after seeing all you guys building and modding and generally enjoying these old and awesome trucks, I started thinking how cool it would be to find another one in good shape and use the old one for parts. Not that I know how to wrench other than changing spark plugs and easy stuff like that. Putting on a new fuel filter is a big success for my level of mechanics. But seeing those rust free rigs from the south made me envious, and I starting looking here in rust laden Ontario, Canada. After about four years, I found a twin to mine and in pretty good shape. Owned by the same guy for 23 years and well cared for. The good is that the box, fenders, doors, and rockers have been replaced within the past ten years. The bad is that it needed those things replacing because of rust. The frame is ok but has had a few patches. So now here I am, wanting new buckets seats, maybe swap the instrument cluster from the old one and all the other cool additions you guys love. No lifting, mudding or wheeling for me. It's going to be a mostly my work truck, but I am definitely hooked and want to upgrade all kinds of things, and like you guys.... end up wondering what is happening to all my money! So... thanks, I think :))) and the new guy

I tried all the above and finally rigged up a puller on the hub when that didn't work by itself, I had to put a huge amount of tension on the puller, and then I got a vibrating hammer drill type of thing and made a blunt tip and let it go all around the inner part if the rim. Eventually, it popped off with a bang. And yes be careful, it can be under a lot of tension when it finally lets go.

ouch.... both you and the car!

Yes. But you won't know until you check the voltage and/or the psi reading. Understood. I'll report back when I have more info on those. :)

I didn't know there was a filter up there. I already changed the one at the back on the frame rail near the fuel tank. Twice.