Bobolink

Funny, as I recall, mine would not even start with the knock sensor disconnected.

Check the knock sensor, bottom of block, driver's side. My old original knock sensor fell apart a couple years ago, and caused similar symptoms. Replaced it and cured the problem. The replacement knock sensors are of a different design than the original, but have the same electrical connection (they use the same plug).

24.6, and thereabouts a number of times over the 24 years that I've had 'er. LB w/23.5 gal tank.

RockAuto doesn't have it. It's pretty much a factory item, 52002063, still available for around $15.

according to his website, he does. www.smsheadliners.com

No prob....I've used 0W-30 synth for several years. I'm back to 10W-30 synth now, but not for any particular reason.

I can hear mine in my '90, and I'm damned near deaf. But I only hear it sitting still at idle, just a soft hum-m-m.....any movement and road noise drowns it out. I can also hear it from outside the truck when I walk past the gas tank on my way to close my gate. Been like that as long as I can remember, and never missed a beat during that time.

I'm siding with Geonovast here......how do you know you're stuck in 4wd? If you're determining that by the "part time" light on the panel, that's just connected to your solenoid that sends vacuum to the CAD. It is not an indication that you are actually in 4wd. It is an indication, if all is working correctly, that your CAD is locked. The only thing controlled by vacuum is the CAD itself. TC shifting is strictly mechanical.

Yeah....not good, not good at all. Talked to Ernie at ADDCO tech support today. They know it doesn't fit the long bed. They've known it for years. Ernie says he's going to talk to someone about fixing the catalog. Now I have to convince never enough auto to not charge me return shipping and a 15% restocking fee. :fs1:

It's a long bed....I got some info on a search, but nothing definite. Seems short beds have shocks behind axle and long beds in front of axle. Someone mentioned trying to install the sway bar in front of the diff, but not clear that he was successful. I just fired off an email to ADDCO tech support, too. We'll see what they have to say.

Got a question....a couple, actually. I just received my order from ADDCO of their sway bars, F&R for my 90 Comanche. The diagram in the instructions shows arms on the rear bar facing toward the rear and attaching to the upper shock stud. So here's the first question; do the shocks on the standard rear suspension w/D35 axle mount behind the axle? The shocks on my heavy ton w D44 axle are in the front of the axle. Question 2; has anyone with the heavy ton fit this ADDCO #468 rear sway bar on their truck? I'm going to get under there tomorrow and see if it can be installed backwards (arms pointing forward) and see if it will clear the front of the diff carrier, driveshaft, etc. If not, both bars are going to have to be returned for refund. Kind of maddening. You'd think after 24 years, ADDCO would have sold at least ONE rear sway bar to a heavy ton owner, and would know if there were a problem! The frustrating thing is that I run into this sort of problem all the time. I just put AirLift air bags on the rear in March. They were not a direct fit for the heavy ton, either. Required some modification, but I got them to work.

You don't have a problem. Simply rotate the crank 360°, and you'll see that you now have the cam at 6 and the crank at 12 again, the way we all agree that it should be. The crank turns past 12 each time the cam hits 12 and 6. Nothing's out 180°, nothing's amiss. And if you were to turn the crank another 360°, it would again line up crank and cam both at 12 o'clock. Relax, have a brew, and leave that distributor alone.

If you think about purchasing ANYthing from teamcherokee.com you'd better be darned sure that you won't want to return it.......you WILL NOT get your money back. Check out the Wisconsin BBB and the internet for complaints against Kenosha County Classics, the name under which teamcherokee.com does business. They offer a 60 satisfaction guarantee, but will not honor it, and you will never hear from them again. They will immediately send you an RGA number to return the merchandise, but from that point on they will ignore any correspondence, will not answer the phone, and will not respond to inquiries from BBB. I ordered a lock and key set, advertised as "genuine Jeep." Ordered late December, told them of my dissatisfaction on Jan 8, returned it on Jan 13, and never got my refund of $39.95. They have ignored every attempt to contact them. I am not alone. Check out the Jeep Cherokee Forum, where others have had or heard of the same problems. I now have my bank working on a charge back, since they've left me no other option.

Inadequate tongue weight is often the cause of trailer sway, as you point out. I think in this case, the rental company loaded the tractor (that's what this rock saw was) on an inadequate trailer. The whole rig stood about 8' tall, and the tractor was all the way up against the front rail. The trailer had some pretty weak springs, and the tractor probably outweighed my MJ by a good amount. Add that to the fact that I should have put more air in my rear tires. Actually 7-10% of total weight is what is called for on the tongue. I have 295 pound tongue weight on my 4000 lb boat trailer load. When I first bought it, there was over 700 lbs on the tongue. I had to move the axles forward about 8 inches to correct it. My MJ is a '90 4x4 heavy ton, with the auto and an aux xmsn cooler and temp gauge, and of course a hitch receiver.

I think center of gravity has a lot to do with how the MJ will handle trailers. I rented a rock saw once, the kind you ride on, with a 6' diameter saw. Don't have a clue what that sucker weighed, but I made the mistake of letting my speed get up over 45 MPH, and the rented trailer that I was hauling it on started swaying so bad that it took all four lanes (two of which were opposite direction) to get it back under control. I was just lucky not to have any other vehicles around at the time. For the last 5 years or so, I've been pulling a 4000 lb load, boat and trailer, on 500 miles of interstate at 60-65 MPH 7-8 times a year. The boat trailer is very stable, and the MJ pulls it very well, so brakes become the biggest concern. I've added disc brakes to the second axle on the trailer (surge brakes), and that has helped a lot. It was originally equipped with disc brakes on just one axle. Now I plan to get some Power Stop Z36 discs up front of the truck, and do the booster upgrade. Meanwhile I use the lessons learned while driving big rigs....I leave plenty of room in front of me.

I just installed the Putco harness, with Hella 003427011 Euro code headlights and PIAA 15244 Xtreme White bulbs. They're rated at 4105K, supposedly have a slight blue tint, but I don't see any blue at all, and frankly don't want the blue tint. 4100K is right on the edge, but they are bright white, and the Hella lens can't be beat. Seems like a great combo for driving my deer-laden country roads. I've always had Euro code lights on my other cars, but for the 24 years that I've had the MJ, I just never got around to it 'til now.

FUEL pressure sending unit?