Dando

When doing my swap I used a stiff brush, a pressure washer, and a whole lot of purple power sprayed on at full strength. Came out really well, I had to repeat the process a few times.

I do agree that aluminum tube would work better and weight less, but aluminum is not something I am setup to work with, I wouldn't be able to weld it all up.

What would be the advantage of having larger tube other than aesthetics? And why full length angle as opposed to angle feet, wouldn't end up full length completely as I will not be removing the tool box.

I'm thinking maximum weight would be around 4-500lbs. But most often will be in 2-300lbs range. This will mostly be used to move longer pieces of lumber (I have the shortbed and a toolbox) and ladders and allowing bed space for tools and smaller materials. I was planning on using a piece of angle as the "feet" to sit on the bed rails and using another piece under the bed rail and bolting it all together to sandwich the bed rails.

Thanks for all of the suggestions on racks for purchase, but I am dead set on building my own, I have the tools and the time over winter layoff. I have been looking at the commercial made racks to get some ideas, are there any specific designs or features that you have found to be essential? Also I don't know if this is really the best part of the forum for this topic, is there a better place to post these questions and such being it's not really tech specific to the MJ?

Working on a design for the rack currently, it will be the first I've ever made. Does anyone think 1"x1"x 1/8" tube will be thick enough material?

When I installed my 95 booster/cylinder I reused the existing distribution block that was already in my MJ. Like you my rear valve etc all worked properly. Everything has worked great for me so far.

Not sure if this is the right subforum for this, but anyways. I want to construct a ladder/lumber rack for my shortbed MJ. I need to be able to carry wood boards and ladders etc from time to time. The in bed toolbox near the cab needs to remain usable. And I would like to have it be removable so that when I don't need it I won't have to drive around with it on. Anybody did anything similar? I've got a few ideas but was wondering what other ideas are out there being most racks I've come across use the stake pockets and our trucks lack that feature.

I swapped my 95 aw4 into my 90 MJ with the renix tcu with no issues.

Changed the shift linkage to simplify it and because I forgot to remove a few parts before sending the XJ to the scrap yard.

Thanks everyone, my old regulator had nothing inside it, I'm amazed it wasn't leaking terribly. I got it all installed correctly thanks to the diagram. Much appreciated.

I am asking if the orings should be there at all? When removing the old regulator all that is on my steel fuel line is the plastic push connector.

I am replacing my fuel pressure regulator today, when I bought the new one last night it already has the oring installed on the part that enters the fuel rail but it also included two black orings and one clearish maybe nylon ring. My current setup has nothing installed anywhere except where it enters the fuel rail. Do these orings belong on the metal fuel line? What should the sequence be when installing these?

I think I'm going to try and make a homemade version of waxoyl I found a simple recipe for. Still not sure about it but it was recommended by another plow guy I know when we were talking at the gas station, want to try it out on some scrap leftover panels from my cherokee and see what it comes out like. If anyone is interested I will post results.

While trying to figure something out to fix the problem until I get a better cable, I found something. I wouldn't consider this permenant by any means but I found that this new cable from orielys snaps onto the fitting that is slightly above and to the side, it used to be for my now disconnected cruise control cable it's not actually a ball end but it seems to work ok. Drove my truck about 50mi round trip with no problem.

I found the same problem, I replaced my cable last night from orielys and I am having the same problem. Is the ball replacable I couldn't tell.

I realize that I should have a winter truck but timing and events make that unlikely to happen for me. I will be washing the MJ extensively, just was wondering what would be my best options as to help with repelling the water/slush/grime? Oil coat, wax oils, fluid coating of some sort? Any experience appreciated positive or negative?

I am currently seeking out info on how to best coat my MJ undercarriage for salt and winter grime. Have a very rust free MJ but sadly it must stay my daily ride during the winter. I am finding all kinds of different info around the internet, what have you found to work well and be somewhat easy to deal with while still wrenching on the truck?

Yes the smaller the gauge number thearger the actual wire. Random google image to help explain.

Ok so I haven't had a lot of time to work on the truck this weekend but here is what I found out. Spark plugs have been replaced with known good plugs from my parts storage. Doing that changed nothing. While under the hood I heard a almost unaudible hiss coming from near the first injector, I played with that injector spinning it in place and the noise went away and the idle went back to normal and driving seems normal now too. There is a noticeable difference when I have that injector plugged in or unplugged. Seems like the injector is working again. Leak at the injector caused by orings? Going to clean up a set of known good injectors from my cherokee today and install new orings on them, hopefully install those once I am ready to do the fuel pump. The injector issue doesn't seem to have done anything for my fuel pressure, it has improved but not by much, it sits right around 24psi both with vacuum and without vacuum. And goes to zero immediately when the truck is shut down will not hold any fuel pressure, also when the fuel pump primes before starting the gauge reads absolutely zero until the truck is started. Definetly the fuel pump?

Well I assume the fuel pump is bad as well, when doing a leak down test as soon as the engine is shut down the fuel pressure instantly goes to zero. Is there any way to easily diagnose the injector for sure?

Number one plug is very wet

Screwing around with things here in the work parking lot before I start my workday and I just noticed that when I remove the electrical connector from the first fuel injector it does not change the idle or anything, remove any of the others and it almost dies. Bad fuel injector? Would that cause all of the above problems? How can I test the injector wiring to make sure it is getting a signal?

So last night after running for about an hour my truck started running rough and felt like it was lacking power and at about 3500rpm it would feel almost like it was finally kicking back in. This morning after sitting all night it ran the same way. Has relatively new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, vacuum lines, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, recently cleaned throttle body, tps is set correctly, improved grounds as per cruisers tips, only thing not done has been the distributor indexing. Fuel pressure while at idle reads 22 psi and doesn't change when disconnecting vacuum to the pressure regulator, but the trucks idle improves and feels better driving if I leave the vacuum line disconnected. What do I do, where should I start? Any ideas of what this might be, I'm struggling with this and want it fixed as right now I don't trust the truck and it's my only vehicle. Thanks in advance

Knock sensor