tmaxx411

is there an option to convert to an external slave ax5? i don't have the cash to swap to an ax15 currently

My clutch is losing pressure at 60+. Below 60, its fine, but if I'm cruising at 65-70, for a couple minutes, when i go to push the clutch in to slow down, the pedal goes to the floor. Pump it a few Times and it works.. replaced master, line and slave not too long ago. Clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel are also new. 89 2.5 ax5

Does anyone know of a stub shaft that is the same as an output shaft on our transmissions? Ie would be able to bolt a driveshaft to the input of an np231 or 242

I was under the impression he was swapping transmissions as well. My mistake

pilot bearing in an auto trans? never heard of such a thing

its that way in stores too. 2.5 housing - 45 dollars. special order, 1.5 week wait time. 4.0 housing - 12 dollars, in stock.

4.0 housings will work? even though the bypass hose is pointed the wrong way?

looking for a good 2.5l outlet housing. mine cracked, and i want to see if anyone on here has one cheaper than i can get one for

you also have a 4.0. i have a 2.5

mine is an 89. iirc after 87 or 88 they went to a no-gasket joint. i will be replacing the spring bolts with normal bolts then. maybe it will fix my leak

ahh ok.

i have an exhaust leak coming from the flange between the manifold and the downpipe. the original bolts were destroyed, so i replaced them with some bolts that thread into the manifold, and some springs. should the bolts have springs or should it be bolted directly to the manifold. if i understand correctly, they changed from there being a gasket there, to there not being a gasket there. mine doesnt have a gasket. should they be spring bolts or just regular bolts?

I would like to lift my truck a bit, get tires, and 4wd swap it. Problem is, i only have enough cash to either 4wd swap it, or lift/tires. Which would be the better choice? Its a dd that sees a bit of trail use

steam cleaning is usually regarded as the best. if you can't steam clean, then brake clean, hands down. before after it took me 13 cans of brake clean, and about 6-7 hours to get it that clean. i could keep working on it, but its good enough for something that will never be seen.

i'm looking for the bracket that bolts the bench seat to the floor. i need the drivers side. price shipped to 08736 thanks :)

i'm new to jeeps. how do the spartan lockers work? are they selectable? or are they locked 24/7?

Huh, interesting. My coolant temp and oil pressure gauges don't work and someone wired up aftermarket ones. I'm curious if this is related to the coolant lines being disconnected. I was under the impression there was another sensor somewhere else specifically for the coolant temp gauge though. I was hesitant to hook it back up because people said once it's disconnected there's a decent chance the manifold will crack and coolant will then get into the inner intake Oh yeah, I agree totally. I have at least 2 of every different Rock Auto magnet out there I think haha. It is stupid how they charge shipping for each item when they're stocked at the same warehouse. i have never heard that about an intake. i would hook it up and see if anything bad happens. the gauge is a smaller 1 wire sensor on the drivers side back of the head. the gauge on the intake manifold should be to tell the computer what temperature the coolant is

you also need to hook up the coolant passage in the intake manifold. there are engine sensors in the manifold for coolant temperature in my 2.5. it could explain why it ran like crap before

i got a surprise from this truck today :/ the slave cylinder blew the line right out of the housing :/ replacing master, slave, clutch, hose, and rear main when the funds permit. also going to replace the downpipe, cat, muffler, and tail pipe

thanks. yeah, it was those stupid intake bolts. they were tight, but not tight enough. i'll do a thermostat soon and see if that fixes the cold running problem

I'm thinking thermostat as well for the coolant issues. its behind the housing for the upper hose correct? also i figured out the crappy running issue.. intake bolts werent tight enough.

also, when fully warmed up, the truck is below the first line on the temp gauge. not sure if its the gauge or the engine itself

i have an 89 comanche 2.5l with throttle body injection. it has idled high, and rough since i purchased it, and i am at the point i would like to fix why. so i start trying to diagnose it, simple stuff first, spark plug order, and the such. i come to find out that i can pull the spark plugs off both rear plugs, with no change to the motor. so i determined that the spark is getting to the plugs (pulled the leads off while its running and watched it) and there was spark getting to the plugs. i went, and got 4 new plugs, thinking that would fix it, and there was no change. i'm at a loss where to go next. fuel injector? wouldnt that affect all 4 cylinders though? i recently replaced a bunch of the vacuum lines as well, to eliminate some small leaks that were present. compression is 145 across the board, and it drives well enough, just backfires on decel, and has a high, rough idle.

i will add pictures tomorrow, since its dark out now

for those of you plagued by constant oil leaks due to the crappy plastic valvecover, this is for you. you can tell an aluminum cover by the location of the oil fill. it is dead center on the cover, as opposed to on the front what you need 1 aluminum valvecover off a 93+ 2.5L (mine was off a 93 wrangler) 1 98 dodge dakota 2.5l valve cover gasket 11 1/4-20 1"long bolts 11 washers for those bolts vacuum tubing for ccv system 19/32 tubing for the ccv valve itself install is pretty simple prep the new cover however you like (sand/paint/polish/etc.) pull the old cover off, unplugging the pcv system clean the mating surface thoroughly. put the gasket on gently place the cover on, and start hand threading the bolts in. tighten the bolts fully hook up the ccv system (big hose to airbox, and small one to throttle body start engine and check for leaks