tmaxx411

So long time since an update... The body shop held onto the truck for over a year and made zero progress on it... So it moved back home and now I'm doing all the panel replacements. Currently has no floor at all, and Ithat is good, because even after blasting I found more rust under the floor braces

windshield frame is heavily rotted, firewall and floor pan are much cleaner in the xj.. the ones in the mj are beginning to rot as well. front headlight buckets are different for the 87+ latch system, as well as a few other panels are slightly different. also need to sort out the door strikers for 97+ doors.. scheduled for another visit tomorrow afternoon with their body guy to go over what I'm looking to do.

when they said cab, they mean rockers, floor, firewall, inner fenders, and windshield frame good to know the rockers arent the same... ill be sure to let them know. maybe they can do it without messing with the rockers

I trust this shop to do it correctly. And it's getting a 97+ interior, along with an LS, so the 2000 cherokee will actually be more correct for this project

truck has been at the body shop for a few weeks now.. went through everything with them and discussed what i would like to accomplish. they advised me to consider an entire cab replacement, vice just replacing the panels i needed. so.. pending a final price, the entire cab of the comanche will be removed, and the front of a 2000 cherokee will be put back.

new (used) engine

donor parts

figured id start a log of this project. truck began its life as an 86 with a 2.5, rwd, 3 speed auto. rebuilding it to be more modern, with more power, and more reliability too.

Sorry for the delay. Here's a bunch of pictures of the current engine mount setup and bracketry, as well as the transfer case drop, transfer case/ceossmember mounting positions, and a close up of the shifter clearance issue

I'm using an xj shifter. It's not hitting the dash, it's hitting the center console.

I can get a Pic tomorrow

The motor did not come out for this work. It stayed bolted up the whole time

The crossmember required a new trans plate (the part that bolts to the trans and the top of the rubber mount). The shifter is physically a little too far forward in the hole, so all the top gears (1,3,5) hit the center console if it doesn't have the tcase drop. Now that I've blown out a motor mount I need to figure this out instead of bandaiding it. I'll take pics tomorrow

So I've hit a bit of a conundrum. I have an 86, with a 2.5L. It originally came with a 2wd 904 3speed. When that blew out, I put an ax5 from a wrangler in, and reclocked the tcase to not hit the floor. It was difficult to mount up, but I finally got it mounted, with a cross member drop to allow the shifter to clear the center console. Is there a difference in the brackets that bolt to the engine between a 2wd 904 and a 4wd ax5? It seems the motor is an inch or 2 too far forward, also possibly a little too much toward the drivers side. Is there an easier way to move the motor an inch or 2 back?

Bit of an update, I discovered that even though the gasket and such are brand new, there is a pretty bad vacuum leak from the intake flange. Any tips/tricks to getting it to seal? Going to go grab new bolts tomorrow or tues

99% sure it's just a barbed fitting

I've got an 86 2.5l, that was originally 2wd with a 904 trans. It's been converted to an ax5 4wd. Once the transmission was finished, I started on the motor. Previously the truck had an exhaust leak, and a fairly high idle.(1400 rpm) I pulled the intake/exhaust off, and discovered the manifold was cracked in 2. I ordered a new replacement manifold and put it all back together. At first it wouldn't start. Then it would only start if I sprayed starter fluid into the intake, and it idled around 3000 rpm. I capped all the vacuum lines on the vacuum harness and it with difficulty it started and idled at 1500 rpm. Then I removed the harness all together and called the lines at the ports, and it started normally and idled at 1000 rpm with what sounded like a misfire. I hooked the map sensor back up with brand new vacuum line and it's back to 1500 rpm and hard to start. It doesn't sound like it has a misfire though.. Where do I start? Tldr: replaced exhaust manifold and gasket, found a bunch of vac leaks, capped everything. Truck starts and runs with a misfire. If I reconnect vacuum to the map sensor, it idles at 1500 rpm and is hard to start New: Exhaust (manifold back) Exhaust manifold gasket Iac Waterpump Thermostat Cap Wires Plugs Aluminum valve cover (91+)

I've tried putting 12v to the black/white wire with no luck. Every so often I get half a crank from the key, and then it cuts out. Almost like a power/ground issue. Currently it's running via a push button switch in the cab. Having had the 904 3 speed, that is a 100% mechanical automatic transmission (no tcu).

Update: replaced the starter relay, same issue. It will start if I jump the solenoid (small terminal) to the battery, and run fine. But turning the key to start does nothing still

Hey all, I have an 86 2.5l 2wd that HAD the 904 3 speed trans. It was periodically giving me issues starting, figured the starter was on the way out. Not long after, the trans dumped all its atf(unrelated issue). I swapped a ax5/np231 combo out of a wrangler in, and bought a new starter. However, there is not even an attempt to crank. If I short the starter with a screwdriver, the starter motor spins, but the solenoid doesn't engage. I'm lost, help me. P.s. There is a 3 wire harness from the old trans. Yellow wire is 12v positive, grey/white wire is reverse lights. Not sure what the black/white wire is. Tried connecting it to 12v, no change. The ax5 only has a reverse sensor

http://comancheclub.com/topic/33000-junk-yard-upgrades/?hl=4.0

wow its been a while. this truck now looks like this picked up a set of 31's just to get me around. once this motor dies, i will build this truck to what i want.