Blaine

i know, but if i were to buy a dana 44 axle and say the gear ratio didnt match my front, could i buy a d-44 ring and pinion that could match my front gear ratio depending on what it is.

so ive done some research and i believe i could go both ways, i could set the d-44 to 3.55 to match the front or make the d-30 a 4.11 to match the d-44, assuming those are the ratios seeing they are the most common IIRC (don't write it in stone)

okay like i said there was no rod connecting to the axle, and my rear brakes never locked up, so to see if the valve worked i grabbed some old shoe string tied it up, WOW what a difference, they actually locked up, so now ill mess with until i get it were i want it, so i don't think ill bypass it until it fails. thanks everyone

so if its sensing no load what so ever will they lock up?

how does that rear height/weight proportioning valve affect the rear brakes, mine is not connected to the axle with that little bar its just hanging there? herd about bypassing it, but if i do i want to make sure my rear brakes still work if the front fail, and i don't want them to lock up unless i call for it and hammer the brake pedal.

So my rear is a d-35 open diff, sucky. obviously d-44 had different gear ratio then some other d-44. so if i were to buy a d-44 rear axle, could i buy a d-44 ring gear and pinion that would match up to the gear ratio of the d-30 in the front? or other way around, make the d-30 ratio match the d-44

well its not the amc model 20, just by what the diff. cover looks. i think it finally broke through, when you all said axle i for some reason was thinking axles shafts, BRAIN FART. so i would need to get dana 44 axle, which would hold the d-44 carrier. correct?

here if u want to do the CAD fix, easy simple, and it work. this link should explain it all, if you read all of it most of your questions should be answered. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

instead of washers, you take the CAD off and look into were the fork sits, on each side there is a c-clip that holds the frok in place on the rod. move the fork into the 2wd position, take the c-clip off the oppsosite side and slide the fork back into 4wd position while making sure the rod stays in place (2wd Pos.). then put the c-clip back in its orginal spot and there your done, put the cad back making sure the fork is correctly holding the collar and when u go to bolt it back on rotate the front driveshaft back and forth until u feel the collar slide over, and once u bolted it in the front axle is engaged. and make sure u unplug the vacc. lines running to the CAD and plug em

hmm the dana differential # are for different size axles? like a dana 30 axle is smaller then the dana 44, might need some explanation on the differences. so if i wanted a 44 i would need to change diff. and axles. is a better option the truetrac from detroit. ive been going over allot of reviews and seems the biggest issue is the ring gear bolts not being to slide through the carrier cause some years had heavy duty bolt on them. if i were to go this route how i could i ensure I'm getting the right one, don't want to have to machine the carrier to get my bolts through EX. truetrac carrier has 3/8 in hole and your ring bolts or 7/16 or visa verse.

herd about the detroit truetrac. how much better is truetrac from the stock trac lock LS in traction wise and life expectancy

is the dana 30 used in the rear as well? is there a way of checking to see what dana i have in the rear end w-out pulling the cover off, and whether or not its a trac-lok LS did they make Trak lok for the D30. and say i bought the dana 44 or 35 carrier, could i just transfer the ring gear so the gear ratio match

same for the rear i take it

thank you that explained it all. now I'm wondering if my dana 30 is open or lsd?

just went out and overlooked you r right on the money, dana 30. are they open or lsd?

with LSD would it redirect which tires spins under load. like driver side will spin then it goes to passenger side. And when would the two tires be spinning with LSD. want to figure this out cuz i want more then one front tire and one rear tire spinning, id like both front to spin. in the future i want a air diff locker, but its expensive! so is there a stock diff that will turn both tires? and what year,make and model did the dana 44 come in? cause i converted my truck to 4wd, from a 86 pioneer IIRC

I looked at my front diff cover and it appears to be a dana 44. SWEET!. i can never remember which is which, when one tire spins is that an open diff, or a limited slip.

Sorry this is not a tech thing but i wanted to thank everyone who has helped me out in this forum with all my questions. Seeing there are many of them and all of you deserve a thank you for putting up with my relentless Q's. i hope my constant nagging didn't annoy any of you and with the knowledge you all have given me i will be able to help another Comanche lover on the site or on the street. Again thank's to you all sincerely Blaine Goodrich III

ok thank you all so much. the help is pirceless. so one seal in driver side. diff. one in cad housing when i get the cash i want to get those superior axle tube seal. are they worth it?

or does the cad not need gear oil?

i agree is it a 2.5 or 4.0? also just learned about this, in the pic below the heater valve is vacc. operated amd sometimes doesn't let coolant into the core and it bypasses through the jug and back to your w-pump. it does this when heat is not in use. sometimes it gets finicky and doesn't work when its supposed too. if flushing the core don't work this could very well be the problem. 6 cyl. 4.0 style.

i thought fluid needed to run to the CAD. with the seal there it wouldn't flow to it

ok inner seal is in the diff. on driver side (left side of diff. housing in pic above). outer seal is the one in the CAD housing. and if the dust/mud seals are pulled away from the axle housing will grime get in or do the pother seals prevent that? and could you explain this works? whats behind the two washers on the left side, seal or another mating surface for the seal

So are there two or three seals? one guy stated that there was two. one seal in the diff. driver side, and one in the CAD housing pass. side. So which one is the inner/outer seal. and the flange on the axle in my first post is that considered a seal. ive seen them be replaced with this. are the original ones supposed to flush with the axle housing?

are there three seals, one on each side of the diff and one in CAD housing?