Blaine

thanks, would a crossmember drop kit help?

i got the jest of how to do it, I'm concerned with angles. still having a little trouble. so with this much lift i can still keep my diff. parallel to the t-case. the angle where the driveshaft meets the yoke on either side won't be too excessive. EXAMPLE. The higher my engine and trans gets above the axle the greater the angle will be where drivehsaft and yoke meet. with the SOA, would these angles be to hard?

remember my truck is my daily driver this is how i want it to look in the rear, see how he did the SOA and kept his diff, just about parallel to the t-case. how do go about doing this? with no driveline vibrations

thanks, now how would i go about keeping my rear diff, parallel to the t-cas after doing an SOA without compromising the driveangles.

sorry to thread jack this and bring up a very old topic, but how did you do you drive line angles to keep your diff like that. with what appears to be a slip yoke drive shaft

Good example here. i want my drive line angles to look like this, with the SOA or as close as i can get it NOT LIKE THIS

this is my DD. i don't want my pumpkin like this, won't this make premature pinion bearing failure do to low oil flow to it. if i kept my orginal shaft, how would i go about keeping the diff. parallel to the t-case without causing excessive driveshaft angles

another thought, i have a thread going about driveline angles, and I'm starting to get the drift of it. but will this make it so my pinion yoke is too high to get proper gear oil to it. unless a crossmember drop kit is added. i have a longbed and stock driveshaft, with slipyoke. i don't want my rear diff looking like this which leads me to another Q. what would i do with front driveshaft angle with this much lift, i have my CAD locked in so the shaft is always spinning and i don't too excessive angle on it

so after you do a SOA you put and angle finder on the drive shaft and make differential 2 deg. below parallel? basically you need the rear diff. yoke to be in line with the driveshaft, only 2 deg. off for axle movement

is that lists constantly updated? i like the drop brackets but i want the ground clearance behind my tire, don't want it to be banging off rocks and getting hung up. but what would the ride be like with just the adj. control arms? for maine pot holes. eh, i guess either way i go i could always change it if i don't like it.

okay, i don't see what you mean by shims in the lower control arm? won't that bring my tires back towards the rear more and does it matter what year they come out of

could you possibly get a pic. of what the wj upper and lower control arms look like? ive looked online and there are so many and i don't know which ones they are

can't really do ebay. thinking more like uncle henry's or craigslist

and how did you adjust for the slight shortness in the upper control arms, and drop brackets just bolt in?

plan on doing the spring over axle in the rear, so it depends on how much that will give me. i know it ranges a bit due to spring wear. around 5-6 inch

also thanks, thats very handy!!!!

do the control arm drop brackets make it so u can use your stock control arms?

so for the most part i know what to do for the rear. as to match the front height i know i will need the following items - (adjustable) track bar - (adjustable) upper control arms - (adjustable) lower control arms - longer brake hose - springs - shocks - longer (quick disconnect) sway bar end links where about online should i order these items, Rusty's Offroad seems to have it all but i want to know your opinions

is this correct. when you setting pinion angle. even after SOA. should the pinion angle be parallel to the transfer case output shaft or 2 degree's below so it will be in line driving down the road.

Eagle get off my back. sorry i misunderstood him. aw4 is the model of tranny. Aisin Warner. i thought he meant ALL WHEEL DRIVE. thats why i was cought off guard. ill figure it on my own. sorry for the hastle

"The auto used in the MJ/XJ was the AW4" huh? i didnt think mine was this seeing it had the 2hi ok first which is which: Part Time has 2hi or Full Time. which one is considered the AW4

I'm started to lean towards that.

its an auto. and does the NP 231 only go for the t-case

Yes, by counting drive shaft revolutions. But: Start at the beginning. Your truck was originally a 2WD. What year, what engine, what transmission? Then you converted it to 4WD. Did you swap both the front and rear axles, or only the front? Are we to understand that you swapped in one or both axles without even knowing what ratio the gears are? What year truck did the "new" axle or axles come out of, what engine did it have, and what transmission? And then we need to know where you want to go with it. If you have to weld new spring perches for the rear axle, the new perches have to be positioned correctly to establish the pinion angle. A few posts above, you asked that that should be. The answer is "It depends." It depends on how much lift you will have, because the amount of lift affects the angle of the drive shaft in the chassis. The spring perch location and pinion angle would be different if you're going to stay at stock height than if you're going to go a SOA conversion. my truck is an 87, 4.0 inl 6 2wd. the donor truck was a pioneer. don't recall what year it was. it had same engine 4.0 i swapped both axles and transmission, yea w/out knowing ratio's. at the time i wasnt concerned on what ratio's i got as long as they matched. seeing i were using the original axles from the same truck. I'm not sure what trans i got from the donor, but i think its a 231 cause i have the 2hi, 4hi and 4 low. are there marks on the tranny that i could check. also my t-case is from an xj so don't know if the tag on that will match the trans no luck on the tags, they were gone. so will pull the cover and check. and how do go about making sure the pinion angles is correct,

ill check everything out tomorrow in the sun, hard enough to deal with the cold let alone in the dark with a flashlight.