Blaine

thanks gene ans yes I did. I noticed while driving a pump or two orit will stiff'n up a bit with somewhat decent braking they won't lock up though. Ill try the procedure and see how I fair

Sorry to bring up old thread. I replaced the two lines going to the rear. Cut the bad out and union'd the new ones in by the fuel filter. I have a solid stream coming out of bleeder screws, gets firm with engine off, spongy with engine on. I have the height sensor angled a little above horizontal so it supplies more pressure to the rear. I read that I need to crack open a front bleeder to get the safety feature to allow more pressure to rear and bleed the rear with the front bleeder open and then bleed the whole system?

I've done some research on here and there are a couple procedures I haven't done, gunna try them 1st. Have hardly any cash atm but thanks for the link though in case I do need it

reverse bleeding? do you mean putting a vacuum hand pump on bleeder screw? also i do have that load valve angled above horizontal to allow more brake force to the rear.

So i just replaced the two brake lines running to the rear, instead of doing the whole line just cut them by the fuel filter and union'd two new one's in. one to a small distribution block, other to the load proportioning valve, which last time i checked, it was working. while bleeding them i get a good stream coming from the bleeder screws and can hear the brakes being applied via spring noise. pedal gets nice and firm while engine off, get spongy when engine on. even tried bleeding while engine running. still spongy. before this they were firm.......any suggestions

ebay is where i got mine check em out

i had a new button,cap and wires. so i did plugs, air filter, oil change. today i did tip 1&2, did #26 valve cover mod a week ago. it still idles funky start it up idles fine, then rough back to fine and so on. this motor is new i put it in a few months ago its been running fine till recently. cannot remember what year cherokee it came out of but was around the same cuz its a renix. all i have done is replaced the starter and this has been happening not long after

the tune up helped out a lot, although the dumbasses at AutoZone gave me autolite when I ORDERED NGK's, better then what I had but will replace soon. drives good, idle still funky but going to do some more of cruiser's tips before I start throwing parts at it,

makes sense because I just did the valve cover mod for sucking oil into the air filter through the pcv system, could very well be oil film hindering a good signal and my CAT is cleaned out has been for years, O2 woud have picked that up wouldn't

I have done some. As of today it has gotten worse, my gf said it had stalled on her while driving around 10-15mph it has never done that to me, I'm doing a tune up tomorrow on it, after that give ill give an update. just thought when I unplugged that idle air control valve I would have noticed a change.

any suggestions would be nice

done, and this issue is on the 87 4.0 guess that makes it easier for everyone huh, lol. forgot to do that :doh:

87 4.0L did some research on here, couldn't get exact issue, but my truck at idle sounds like its cam'd running rough, the it will pick up and run fine, then back to rough, sometimes when i shift to drive or reverse it will stall, it will start fine though. MAP sensor is ok, undo the vac line and it stalls, but when i unplug the idle air control valve no change, wondering if thats the issue?

thanks gunna need it And no I'm a dummy, all I had to do was replace the switch that the rod goes into that supplies power to everything, didn't even need to tear into anything, but had no idea what anyone was talking about, what rod and switch? so I tore into it too find out, well I found out all right, SOB. thanks again, just need to find one now

yea it is but screw it, while messing with it last night the ignition rod came undone again, so I'm just going to get another column seeing mines is already out of it, a lot less hassle I believe

no it doesn't spin freely, as of now there is no steering wheel on it, its where the two halfs meet, when i pull on the shifter the seem is tight, when i let go of the shifter it pushes the two halfs slighty apart

87 Comanche, automatic shifter on the column okay, so I tore my column all apart, its sitting in my living room. I now have it somewhat assembled and when I release my shifter in the park position it separates my column. in reverse and neutral not so much and separates again in drive and down. any ideas would be helpful,

Took the Comanche mudding and the water was up to the t case I removed the vacuum switch because I locked the front in. Well the plug I used to cover the hole must not have been air tight cause when got home I couldn't put it back in 4wd. Once I reffed on the handle hard enough that it did go in it popped that plug out and water started gushing out of the vacuum port. Can I just drain the t case and refill it and be fine. And what is recommended to use to cover that hole

EDIT

cool thanks will do everyone.

Its a 87 base model originally 2x4

Both lines on the valve cover wasn't plugged but the front line leading right to the air box is leaking oil around the insert to the cover

Found one online thanks for the help

U have pic of it

I have oil coming in to my air filter from the valve cover any thoughts on why