Blaine

what is this flange called on the axle right behind the u-joint?

ok so if the resistor fail it only has high speed. good to know, but i checked the resistor and they were a little rusty other then that non of them were broken and looked fine. i tore apart my whole dash and removed the heater unit and saw that the speed switch is probably the cause. REFERENCE PICTURE this is what my resistor looked like except w/out the steel cover around it REFERENCE PICTURE on the right hand side the posts that are on the switch itself that the connecter plugs into are lose and seem pretty bad and i think is why i only have high speed. going to get a a another unit and see if that solves the problem.

awesome electrical work. fun fun :wall:

is it supposed to though is a better question, if the resistor fails does it default to blow on high?

If the wires running to the resister were unplugged would the blower still run on high? i tried it and mine still run without them plugged in

i got lucky i have a whole spare engine (hence where my head come from) the only reason i replaced my head was bec. 1 of the rust it had gotten from water 2. it overheated so bad i had steam come out of every orifice and i was watching my vale cover gasket melt. didnt want to take a chance on a warped or cracked head. seeing i didnt have the resources to have it checked

brown is a sign i a needed flush. def. will help

i would make sure coolant is full, if its a closed system pull the hose going into the top of the radiator off, keep the other end hooked to the goosneck on the engine, have a friend start your truck while you r holding the hose (obv. away from yourself) and if coolant start gushing out your water pump is working. with my 4.0 i was constantly having overheating issues, removed the t-stat helped for a bit, but after awhile my truck wouldnt even idle without overheating, i was running water bec, i wasn't about to by coolant every time it spilled over. replaced the gasket and used a spare head i had bec mine had major rust in the spots where the water was blowing by the gasket. but like i said I'm not familiar with the 2.5 the link in my last post is a thread about a 2.5 overheating issues. ask someone in there they might be able to give you more specific advice. good luck and hopefully its not the head and something simple

I'm not familiar with the 2.5 but this link is too a thread were someone could help you out more http://comancheclub.com/topic/41577-overheating-question/?hl=overheating

if the w-pump is cycling water with no thermostat then it does sound like a head gasket is gone, if u hadn't of said the water is cycling i would have thought u cold have frozen you w-pump by adding water to it.

and how do u go about do that? filling the system, run my truck, check and refill and will them holes affect the warm up time and operating temp. ?

anyone know about the questions in the two above posts #42 and 41

i know, i know, srry. i understood how u wanted me to route the system i just didnt understand why i couldn't run it directly through the core, is it bec. the bottle will release pressure through the cap if it were to overheat and not blow a hose off or something.

herd about this on here drilling the two holes the t-stat, how does that help get air bubbles out. does this affect the operating temp?

exactly so why did they use the tee's when u can just do what u said and make the circuit going through the jug see post#31

to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's

yep, now i see. so what u think, use them tee's or just run t-stat hose to jug, jug to core and core to w-pump.

alright ill try another t-stat and hopefully it will warm up within a few minutes not a half hour, and stay up to temp

what i don't like is how does the coolant flow know when to flow through the core or the jug with them tee in there. like rockfrog said if i didnt put the tee in and just connected the upper jug hose direct to t-stat then lower hose to core and core to pump it would make a full circuit. i like that idea cause in this pic the coolant could still bypass the core go through the jug and to the pump.

nice, that would work this is a great ref. pic of what i might do, ive herd i should drill two holes 180 deg. from each other in the t-stat flange so that it can purge itself with this type of mod t,

don't have the resource right now, and don't feel like replacing a good radiator.

ok ok i thought about it, if i were to do it that way with my bottle it will eliminate that valve and if i were to over heat or what not it would piss out the bottle cap and not blow a hose off or worse. correct?

if i were to do that wouldnt there be a constant flow through the bottle? if so why couldn't i run hose from t-stat to lower core inlet then hose from upper core outlet to w-pump. it would be a full circuit. so whats the bottle for? reserve fluid or an overflow? srry for asking many questions btw just like to certain before i go and do anything

my rad is good and there is no filler cap on it, so using my stock rad do i need to use a Tee so the bottle is in use or can that be eliminated, i don't see why i need the bottle i guess

whats IIRC?