Blaine

front, closest to the axle

yea problem is they don't know what your talking about or discontinued

so at certain speeds between 35 and 50 while hitting the gas it would shake, cuz at 50 the vibration lessened (almost gone) but u could still feel a slight one. and when i let off it will stop. all bec. they need greasing, also the one i replaced, i gave it a grease-less one.

but why don't it shake in 2wd?

I'm not sure, grease needle? talking about the gun or the port on the u joint

in the driveshaft to the rear tires?

yea and ive already replaced one u joint, but it shook even in 2wd then, now it only does it on 4wd at higher speeds

anyone know where to find the exhaust clamp that slide into the rubber insert on the cross-member transmission mount

another thing I know the the drive shaft wasn't meant to be going all the time so i know its not balanced, but going down a snow covered road when i hit throttle in 4wd i could feel a vibration about 35mph, when i let off it went away. shouldn't it shake all the time if the drive shaft is constantly spinning

well at one point i was in reverse and i herd want sounded like i squeal then want sound like the collar spinning on the axles so today i locked it in, and tried it out so far no noises, I'm liking it, and the light didnt come on even with the lines plugged, oh well, I'm glad it works

have you ever had the CAD collar kick back out into 2wd, doesnt really happen going forward only in reverse when I'm getting into the throttle

well i figured out if you if you keep the CAD in 2wd position, take the c-clip off the rod that holds fork in place and slide the fork to engaged without moving the bar and put the clip back in the original spot, it will hold the fork in 4x4 position, no hose clamp needed.

yea its takes a minute for the splines to line up for the collar to move over.if it takes a long time and you have to go through the gears before it goes in check the vac lines down by the front axle for dirt and stuff that would plug it, check the air ports on the CAD diaphragm itself. and make sure the gear oil in the CAD is actually oil not nasty gunky sludge like mine was. if you have to many problems you can lock the collar so the front is engaged, all you have to do is engage the transfer case

i was thinking that myself, but its worth a try i suppose

what will that do?

yep its working, not extremely important, just hear that allot of them don't work, my dads comanches never came on when he transferred them to 4wd, so when i got mine to come on after some vac. line re-routing i was stoked, had to call him up and brag lol. one thing when i romp on the throttle the light goes out, then come backs on when i let off. it only does it then, just giving it normal throttle is fine light stays on. vacuum problem?

do you mean the 4wd light in the cab?

alright cool, as of right now its working fine, my truck was originally 2wd, transferred it myself and once i had the vacuum situation figured out it was working fine going in and out sitting still or going down the road. then it started taking forever to engage sometimes had to stop and go through the gears before it would kick in so i was going to do this lock. but after i tore into it and saw all the sludge in CAD like horrible gritty stuff, the diaphragm ports were about closed with grime, and the green line running into the side of the diaphragm was plugged with dirt.cleaned all that stuff and made sure vacuum was working its been fine. thanks allot for the help by the way

well the fork moves easily is a better statement, i manually moved the fork back and forth and i could hear the air in the diaphram being pushed. so u take the c-clip off and slide the fork over to lock without the rod moving and put the clip back in so the fork isnt sitting in its orginal postion

so how do you keep the fork in 4wd position with the c-clips? my fork moves back and forth freely wasnt hard at all, but in the future when i want to keep the front engaged id like to know how?

well i fixed it i cleaned out the sludge and put a little gear oil in it. but i think were there was grime in the air ports on the diaphragm and the green line was totally plugged with dirt caused it. i cleaned them and tested it, the fork went back and forth, so i put it back together and it works fine now, it instantly goes in. say in the future if i decide to flip the CAD, what will keep the fork from sliding back to unlock, cause the fork free floats

well i fixed it i cleaned out the sludge and put a little gear oil in it. but i think were there was grime in the air ports on the diaphragm and the green line was totally plugged with dirt caused it. i cleaned them and tested it, the fork went back and forth, so i put it back together and it works fine now, it instantly goes in. say in the future if i decide to flip the CAD, what will keep the fork from sliding back to unlock, cause the fork free floats

ok seeing the CAD was disconnected i hooked it up to the vacuum lines so i could see if it would move and it does, i had a friend put it in 4 and i saw that the fork moved, but when he disengaged it it didnt come back, which is opposite of my problem, at first it wouldnt engage. but its the green line the runs into the side of the diaphram, that is what returns the fork, no vacuum to it.

alright i took the CAD off the fluid was sludge so I'm cleaning that, now my CAD is all pneumatic it needs air either to engage to disengage so nothing keeps it in the lock or unlock position i can move it with my hand either way easily, the diaphram has allot of grime in the ports were the lines connect could that cause it not to move

thanks again