Blaine

it surely does take a beating, mine got so hot it was literally making metal on metal noises, with power loss, i came to a stop let it cool down and the damn thing started and ran and got me where i needed to go. i thought i had seized mine that day, thank god i didnt. hope it turns over for yea bud

1. over heating issue could be a bad head gasket, had same problem, would overheat and my power dropped and then dead. it took a while before the gasket completely went and i couldn't even have my truck running in the drive way without it overheating. 2. try beating on the starter with a hammer, don't bash it but give it a good few hits and then try and start it, i shut my truck off at a McDonalds and wen't to start, just clicked, try jumping it, nothing, beat on the stater, hey it started. might work, might not, worth a try

appreciate the input everyone :thumbsup:

do i have to do preload if i just replace the seal?

alright so just need an inch pound TW, any way you would know what the torque spec would be, with axles in carrier, with no tires on truck, i know its 15 inch pound without carrier installed, add another 7-10 with it installed and new seal, but how about with the axles installed as well. or would that be unreasonable?

so its possible to change outer bearing (the cone), but what if i left old race in if not damaged, would the diff. wear patterns be a problem? with the shims, put new ones in, reassemble it and torque to 160 and check preload and gradually increase till in spec. what is that tool called to do preload? and what would it be with carrier and axles but no tires on it, don't really want to pull my axles out just yet ive seen videos of people marking the nut, thread, and yoke, and yoke to axle so when reassembled and all lines matched it was basically back to factory, if the nut wasn't loose to begin with. any good or not?

ok, outer bearing is the one right behind the yoke, now can i replace outer bearing and race with the pinion shaft still in place? and is it crush collar or just spacers? nice tool MacGyver style, i like. but ill be doing this under my truck, could use if carrier is out. the only thing i don't have is a press to do the inner bearing and the thing to test preload, what is it? other than that i do. Is there any way to pull inner bearing off without press?

well i double posted a topic and i couldnt figure out how to delete it

can't find the checkbox

On 87 Comanche 4x4. On my front axle the yoke has some up and down play and small fluid leak, obviously the seal needs replacing but will replacing the race and bearing right behind the yoke get rid of the play or does it have to be both pinion bearings also i do know the procedure to do both, but any trick, hints, side-notes would be awesome

yep would replacing the bearing right behind the yoke take care of it?

found great YouTube vid for replacing the seal, here is the link, still don't know if that will take the play out and i pray its not the pinion bearing. if so i know the main procedure to do it, once you press the new bearing onto the pinion shaft and put the crush collar on you slide the pinion gear into place in the axle, after the new races have been installed of course. you put the other bearing in then the seal, slide the yoke on and tighten that nut to torque which will crush the collar, is that it? i want to make sure the pre-load is right and pinion to ring is correct.

Ok looked over the front driveshaft and you were right cruiser, one of Ujoints were bad, another thing though is there is play in the yoke on the front diff, with oil slowly coming out, so the seal needs replacing but will that fix the play, and is there a crush collar as well? this is not mine this is a ref. picture, basically the yoke can move up and down

and i appreciate all the help, and i do plan on fixing the right way

sorry, I'm new and didnt know :doh:

oh yea. luckily i don't got too many of them left THANK GOD, this jeep has gone through many modifications

got to do what you got to do, couldnt stand hearing it on every bump i hit

nope took a few of pads of wool wrapped steel coat hanger wire around them to keep them together then wedged it between the crossmember and the pipe, the down pressure of the pipes keeps it in place. after so long it needs to be replaced but its a cheap and easy fix for now and had to edit the last post srry

i don't believe so, he posted a great pic of what i need but hornbrod gave most info, i just needed to know where to ge that part and i'll be set, the site that was given had no picture and i don't want to order something that i have no idea what it looks like. right now some heavy gauge steel wool does the trick, no rattles

lol and on that side note yes the pipe does hit the crossmember at times but only because I'm missing the clamp that slides into that rubber bushing on the crossmember, tans to crossmember mount is new.

Look on post #17 shows whole exhaust system

got this from the internet i need part# 9 what is it called

will do thanks for the input cruiser

so it would only vibrate while giving gas?