jpnjim

Willy, How did your Atlas instal come out in your XJ? How flat did you clock it, and how happy are you with the amount of droop you get out of your ft driveshaft? I had mocked up a flipped D300 a while back, and you end up with a similar ft shaft length to what the Atlas will give me. Using a stock style double cardan joint (Grand Waggy shaft was a perfect fit), with the D300 clocked flat, the driveshaft was my droop limiting factor. Way before the RS9009 length shocks topped out. I figure I'll split the difference with the Atlas, and not go completely flat. I can modify the double cardan to get a few more degree's, but ultimately, I think I'll need a limiting strap on that side, unless I want to run a modified Toyota CV joint, or similar. What did you do, and how much did you cut the floor to fit your Atlas. Thanks Jimmy.

Thanks. I thought about running both (especially since I'm not gonna like the ft driveshaft angle, with just the Atlas if I can get it clocked flat) but I doubt I will. :cheers: I'm just North of Boston (not as North as you tho :D ). I went through 2, or 3 D35's back when I was running 31" TSL's & 31" (old style) Goodyear MT's. On 35's, I tore a ft (lower) control arm bracket off on a Monday morning (in downdown Boston) after running the waterfalls @ The Beacon that weekend. :doh: Ended up ratchet strapping the axle to the ft bumper to drive it back home. I found this D60 rear back when no one was really looking for them (1969 Hemi-Charger automotive D60). Paid $495 in the early 1990's :banana: : 5 on 4.5" wheel patturn, 4.56's, 2-piece Powerlock, 1.5" 23spline shafts (same size as early D70's) & 2.5"x11" drums. Since then I went to a Strange (full) spool & Moser 35sp axles. Daily driving on that got old after a year, or so, and I went with a full Detroit. Except for that control arm issue, the D30 has held up to wheeling on the 31's above, 33" Grabber MT's, 35" Grabber MT's & after swapping in a lockright, 33" TSL's. When I made the jump to Q/78's, I got Alloy USA shafts, but it's been mostly just driveway wheeling with those. :( Hopefully I'll get beyond the driveway wheeling this summer, but it still has a way to go.

Got mine today. VERY nice. Much more substantial than the rubber bodied K&N it will be replacing. Shiny red annodized aluminum housing with Racer style AKIMOTO die cut decals on the end. Can't wait to cover it in mud. 8) FWIW, It doesn't come with oil, but it does need it to properly filter. I have some K&N oil already, but those that don't already have it should pick some up. I didn't measure it, but it's a perfect fit for the 3" exhaust pipe I made the MJ's air tube out of (filter in pic is K&N).

Sorry about the crewcab hijack, but I had alot of fun with that pic when it was posted on JU (5+ years ago). Someone posted it, then others claimed it was a chop. I added fuel to the fire: So they posted another pic: so I *fixed* that one too :D

Early flatfender Jeep pickup beds are close to the right dimensions, and there's aftermarket kits available to build new ones. Probably cost more than a latemodel take off bed, but I bet it would look great (and be all Jeep). Either way, if I was gonna do it, I'd alteast think about widening the rear track a couple inches, and getting a stepside that could take a 4' wide sheet.

I *think* the 1990 factory rack is the same as an 87's. I took my old 87 XJ's rack off years ago. It used screws, and a type of rubber covered nut insert, that went into holes in the roof. Tightening the screw into the nut insert expanded the rubber, and it locked itself into the hole. Most of them fell apart when I took them out.

As long as your bumpstops stop the axle before the shocks bottom out, you're OK. Using longer shocks with less lift can be used to get more droop, at the sacrifice of some up travel. Good compromise for guys running bigger tires with smaller lifts (where your already running longer bumpstops for the amount of lift you have).

Measure, and order the custom sized ones. I'm running Rancho 9010's on the rear of my MJ, been a good length for 4.5" to 6", or so for me. The book lists 9010's as: 26.69extended 15.84compressed. If you have 4.5"+, one of the Edelbrock's in that ballpark would work well. Edit.. just saw your sig, looks like you need something shorter. Measure your shocks, or better yet, compress one side to the bumpstop, that (- a flub factor) is your new minimum compressed shock length. You could also put a tie wrap around the shaft of your shock. After a few days of driving (or better yet, wheeling), that will tell you how much your shocks normally collapse Again, subtract a flub factor (so you don't bottom out your new shocks), and that's your new minimum length.

I ordered one of these when I ordered the shocks posted here. :typing: Haven't gotten it yet, but for $10.00 (+$8 shipping), I'm sure I'll be happy. And yep, Rusty's tube is 3".

I did my 98' XJ's starter last week, and they were both 15mm. I know the older AMC stuff always used 2 different sizes (I was expecting the 98' to also), maybe when they changed to metric, they made the switch to one size. I'd check my 88' MJ, but it has a newer (2001) tranny, so I'm sure I used the newer bolts with that too.

Disconnect the battery first (duh). 2 bolts hold the starter in (15mm). One nut holds the relay wire on (10mm? I forget) & one 13mm nut holds the main power wire on.

:cheers: I need to get a real illustarator program. Very nice.

My 98 XJ locks up when I'm taking corners. Probably means I'm going too fast, but it's annoying that I can't lean forward when I'm taking corners.

I continue to be shocked at how great they are in DEEP snow. Not so great in the Rain (OK, but not great), but unfriggenreal in deep snow. Previous poster mentioned BFG MT's. I am just as amazed how BAD BFG MT's were in the same exact deep snow. At one time I had 32" BFG's on my XJ, and these 31" TrXus's on the gf's ZJ. Both parked in the same driveway, 2' of snow overnight (3-4 years ago). ZJ pulled right up, and over the fresh snow. XJ couldn't move even one inch. Backed ZJ up to XJ's bumper (easily), crushing all the snow between the XJ & the street. XJ STILL wouldn't move one inch. Even after (hand) pushing the XJ into the ZJ's parking spot, the XJ clawed, and scratched at the snow, and barely pulled out. I ended up just driving the ZJ, and now the XJ gets the TrXus in the winter. :D

Great idea's guys! Thanks to everyone who helped tweek it so far :cheers: (I knew I posted this for a reason :D ) I think the square "." is the way to go (better than trying to match the oval '0' of the 401 badge). Hopefully I'll have time to play with this tomorrow, I'd like to keep some of the 401 badges' 3d background. If it comes out nice (hopefully nicer than what I already posted ;) ) I'll post it up for anyone wanting to do the same. james750, I'll be sure to check in with you on this too.

Yes, and no. I hooked it up to the LCD TV at one point (42" Olevia), but it wasn't as 'plug & play' as the Toshiba lappy's I have (and had). Not sure why, I did get it to play eventually, then couldn't repeat it. Never got back to it to try again. Would you get the 8.9", or the new 10" version? http://astore.amazon.com/aspircom-20/detail/B001QFZFS0 10" is better in most ways, and has doors to upgrade memory without having to pull out the whole motherboard. Excellent Acer 'One' forum here: http://www.aspireoneuser.com/forum/inde ... b57994c473

When we got hit with the April Fools day Blizzard in 1997, (3 feet of heavy snow overnight!).......... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/April_Fool's_Day_blizzard My 2wd longbed MJ made it 15 miles each way to work that day :cheers: 4.25" lift, 31" (crappy) mud tires, and the whole bed filled with concreteblocks snow & ice. Tail was dragging, but it made all the difference. FWIW, no one asked, but TrXus MT's are amazing in the snow. 4x4 XJ w/ 31" TrXus made this storm a cakewalk.

Hey, I just thought of the 4th, and best option....... SWAP IN A BIGGER REAR AXLE. :thumbsup: Bigger axle with a longer pinion distance will make up the difference in driveshaft lenght. :cheers: If you already have a D44, you could get a slightly longer D35 driveshaft.

Not the best solution for everyone... but when I had issues of the driveshaft being *slightly* too short, or too long, I've just moved my rear axle forward, or back an inch, or so to made up the difference. You redrill the center hole on the spring perch, pop the spring center bolt into the new hole (drilling exactly the same distance on each perch is importaint), be sure to drill a new hole for the back of the center bolt in the U-bolt plate, and bolt it all back together. Even when I don't have driveshaft issues, I've used this method to tweak my wheelbase whenever I needed it. My MJ's rear is set back about 1.25" like this right now (hole drilled forward in perch, to set axle back). It's spent more time set back, than in the stock position. You can't get too crazy with this, mostly because the perches are only so long, but I wouldn't want to get too close to the edge of the perch with my spring center pins. The other thing you could do is get a YJ/TJ T-case yoke. They allow more droop, and *some* of them are slightly longer. The YJ yoke I had appeared to be 1/4"-3/8" longer, but the splines inside didn't go all the way to the edge as my XJ yoke did. At some point, XJ's started using the same yoke as YJ/TJ's, but I can't remember the year. 3rd solution is to get another shaft, and shorten it. When I converted my old MJ to 4wd, and SOA'd it, I had a driveshaft laying around that used the same U-joints, but was way longer. A local shop cut it down, and I was good to go.

I bought one of these last August (XP/120g HD), I took it (completely :ack: ) apart to upgrade to 1.5g RAM (barely worth it), liked it so much I ended up using it more than my 'fullsize' lappy. Lately I think the fun has worn off, haven't used it as much, but it's still a useful little machine. For running CD programs, I use MagicISO Virtual CD/DVD manager to run ISO's. I've been able to turn most game & software CD's into ISO's using ISO recorder, or Imgburn. They won't get the encrypted ones, but there's software for that too (I still haven't crossed that bridge). Basically, you made the ISO's on another computer (with an optical drive), load them onto a Memory card (super cheap these days), transfer them to the non-optical machine, and mount them into the MagicISO manager. Good thing about the manager is you can make as many CD/DVD drives as you want (Computer 'see's' them as actual drives), and even mount up all your ISO's at the same time if you wanted, so you can go from running one CD/DVD to the next CD/DVD seemlessly. I run the same program on my full size lappy, and the Virtual CD/DVD loads up faster than the real drive. Great for playing games without having to keep the game CD in your disc tray. :thumbsup:

Thanks :thumbsup: I saw that site before, and liked that he had MJ stuff (new font Comanche door decals :cheers: ) Guess it's just a matter of nailing down the design. I'm leaning towards the last one, but still need to work the "." in there somehow.

I always wanted to turn an AMC/Jeep 401 badge into something like this 4.0L decal (for the MJ). Quickly played with the 401 badge on Paint, looking for some input, Am I on the right track? Anyone wanna try to their own tweaks? Figured with any luck, there'd even be a sticker guy here on the board. :D

FWIW, by using an offset in/offset out muffler, flipped onto it's side, I was able to use a straight piece of pipe as a tailpipe (instead of getting a U-bent tailpipe around the rear axle).: I used a cheap, made in China, FM knockoff (Thrush welded). Flanges weren't sized right, so I can't really recommend it. Sounds OK for a non-daily driver tho.

I don't know why they're so cheap, but they are excellent shocks. I just ordered a pair of 6" XJ fronts for the MJ: 63509: Xtreme Travel IAS for 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 2WD & 4WD 6" lifted, (Front) 63509 2 $64.95 $129.90 total. I bent one of my RS9000's 10 years ago, and have been too cheap to get decent replacements (been using beefy, but ancient, Rugged Trail hydro's), till now. :cheers: Thanks for the tip. I should really pick up some non-remote res IAS's to replace the clapped out Doetsch's on my DD XJ too.......

Front flares have the same general shape, and *can* be used, but the late model flares taper from thin to fat at the top, and it doesn't look right from certain angles: FWIW, tire isn't centered b/c axle is moved back ~1.5" You can see the bad angle here (getting wider as they go back): FWIW, the late model bumper end caps works with the MJ overhang, if you cut it up a little, but I wasn't able to make it look cleanly at the end, that + the skinny to fat flare thing made me ditch this idea (atleast for now).