jpnjim

I guess I should have bought a few when they were available :(

I love this Comanche :yes:

I can already see that day coming Don, but after sanding he said "Dad that was the best thing I ever did!" :yes: Lol & I thought he was gonna complain about how cold it was. :D

Thank you :yes: I appreciate the help. I just loaded up the bed with a few hundred pounds so that may help as well. The rear springs are so stiff, it didn't drop at all with two full barrels of salt/sand + 3 more bags of salt I put it in 4low, and had my human powered spreader sit on the spare tire & salt/sand the driveway.:) He loved it. :yes:

Sometimes a lot of $$ Sometimes you can barely give them away. This one has been on Craigs here for a while with no takers. I'm surprised they usually go fast; http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/3500403892.html ^^^ though this one does sit a little lower than the MJ roof right behind the cab, maybe its not an MJ specific topper? Good luck.

What's better about the (stock) Toyota? Gas mileage Ground clearance Axles (vs D35) They have that cool emergency brake lever that pulls out of the dash What's better about the (stock) MJ? Everything else ;) They both are pretty cool, good luck with whatever you decide.

Thanks Biotex! The width would probably work, I'd probably just have to add some links in the length (circumference). But I only really need one set, so if its ok with you, I'd like wait & see if Sinkrun's Dad has any 9.00-16's first. Thanks for thinking of me & Happy New Year! (Maybe you'll get some snow ;) )

I'm all about keeping this one cheap :) So I certainly wouldn't turn down some discount chains if he still has them :D Thanks!

To Do List: I don't know how much I'll have time for over the winter, but I started a to-do list (I'm sure I'll be back to edit this :D ) Brakes: someone already converted it to a duel master cylinder, but for some reason capped the rear off (I'm guessing leaky line) even though it's really crusty, it seems to be holding fluid. But there is no pedal resistance. Step 1 will be to try to pull off the crusty ft drums and see what's going on there. Finding a rebuild kit for the swapped in MC might be tough if I can't figure out what it originally came from. Emergency brake (T-case mounted drum): it actually works. if there's enough meat left in the shoes & drums, I'll adjust it & call it good :D Traction: I should probably throw a thousand pounds of sand in the bed, and call it good, but so far it's gotten stuck twice at the bottom of my driveway :( Single track axles, and old tires so hard they throw sparks are as much to blame as the lack of rear weight. Choices: Snow chains: @ Tirechain.com for 9.00-16 tires Medium Duty ones in the truck section are $85 a pair; http://www.tirechain...m/9.00-16LT.htm Greater selection for 9.5-16's in the tractor section; http://www.tirechains.com/9.5-16.htm $135-$266 per pair Either way, I think I'd put them on the rear to keep the stress off the 60 year old Tracta joints up front Lock Right: PN 1210 fits these big boy Chrysler axles, Telico has it for just under $300 http://www.tellico4x...roducts_id/2187 Tho I'm not sure I want to risk breaking the shafts Shafts are big 16 spline 1.37" at the ends, but they neck down to 1.25" in the center This would also be for the rear to save the trouble of breaking a ft joint, or shaft Or Tires: Choices would be: 1)recentered Hummer wheels, with Hummer 37x12,5x16.5 Good Year MT's <<< my favorite tire back when they were available in other sizes, this would be a good excuse to run them again :D 2)recenter some 15x8's and run the TSL Q78-16's, or 37x13.00-15 Boggers I already have. <<< I really doubt 15's will fit over these huge drums, but that won't stop me from trying :yes: 3)keep the Widow Maker split lock 16x6.5's, and swap on some newer tires, tubes, flaps & stems Q78-16 TSL's, or even 38x12.5-16's have been used on these wheels by others or 4)put a couple hundred 5/16" head sheet metal screws in the tires already on there and stop getting stuck for much less $$$ Fluids: It needs some fresh fluids. I figured where the oil filter is today, gotta get a filter & O-ring for that, then change atleast the engine oil & diffs. Trans & transfer case actually sound good, so I'll leave them for last Engine & Trans plugs take what looks like a ginormous Torx bit, but I didn't think those were even invented in 1953. Plow: I raised the rear push bar 2 positions, after talking to a plow guy (my brother) I am going to raise the push bar to the highest position. Hydro pump could use a bracket welded to keep it from moving around, I'm just gonna keep my eye on it for now. It could also use a change of hydrolic fluid & filter, but I haven't worked on enough plows yet to want mess with one that works in the middle of winter. Also on the plow to do list is grind & patch the 2 rust holes on the blade Electrical: There has actually been some decent upgrades, like the add on heater, electric wiper (DS only), electric fuel pump, and conversion to 12v from 24v. But there's also been 60 years of serious electrical butchery involved. 1) put a fire extinguisher in it, to avoid --> :( 2) cut out the rats nest of splices, wires run in every direction and random switches drilled everywhere in the dash 3) close up the random switch holes, find some decent HD switches that match, and re-run the add on stuff. 4)go through the lighting, fix or replace what doesn't work. Misc: IF the frame passes the wire wheel test (= doesn't come apart in fist sized chunks) 1)Patch Panels find some patch panels for the swiss cheese fenders. The curves are pretty simple, but if someone makes patches, I'd use 'em 2)Data Plates: there are everywhere on a Mil truck, and these are pretty faded for the most part. luckily they seem to be pretty cheap to buy still. so If things continue going well with the truck, I'll spring for some new OD paint & plates for the dash :yes: 3)Tailgate: The tailgate is intact, the bottom hinge part is being used by the plywood tailgate that's bolted on for now. Really shouldn't be much more than: grind my way to clean metal burn the hing back to the gate & maybe add a small filler piece if there's a section missing, or rotted away. Without putting the two tailgate pieces back together, it sure LOOKS like everything is there, except for one chain latch bracket on the bed that's partially missing (easy fix). 4)gas tank currently its a bed mounted plastic aftermarket tank. The original is in good shape. I'm tempted to get some straps & bolt it in (rerunning fuel lines @ the same time) but I think it would be better to wait til the bed is off, frame stripped/patched & painted in the spring. Lastly, this truck was upgraded with a pass side mirror, but the drivers side mirror is broken off. Reattaching that is on the short list due to the small rear window/huge blind spot.

I saw this tcase pic from your other thread. If you were just cruising down the highway, it probably.didn't break from contact, or the ft shaft bottoming out. Weird. Could it be possible something didn't go back in right on the recent rebuild? Did it bind when turning on pavement in 2wd, or did it turn freely like it should? Any chance it was accidentally left in 4wd on pavement for a long trip?

The blown up t case on your sig pic has the front output broken right off. That usually only happens from contact, like when the ft driveshaft is too long, or the slip joint is completely seized. Just want to make sure the next one doesn't blow up too.

^^^ :yes: Are you going to get the front spring eye reversed, or did you make us a set out of flatter leafs yourself?

205/55r15's would only be about .1 inch shorter, but a whole inch narrower. Unless you really like that small tire look, I think I'd use the ARE wheels with something much taller, like a 235/60r15 (9.25"x26"). Wouldn't be as authentic of a look, but there's something to be said for tires that fill the wheelwells. :) With either tires, if you go with the 8.8" you can always set the wheel spacing with spacers.

Thanks for explanation Jim! Who do we have to talk to get an "Ask Jim" forum here @ in the pub?? :yes: Campfire tales to War Stories, and everything I'm between. Kind of like "Dear Abby".... if Abby was raised by wolves, and Clint Eastwood :D ^^^dead serious :) "Ask Jimoshel, Life advice & Tractor tips" :yes:

To add my 2c, 8.8's are narrower than MJ rears. MJ rear width is already pretty narrow for the bed & body lines, but Jeep chose to maintain the same axle widths across the board (XJ MJ YJ ZJ TJ) so the MJ had to make do with a narrower rear than would have been ideal. I'll guess you are going to run different/wider wheels & tires on the back of your 2wd MJ, so you could compensate for the narrower 8.8 if you want, deeper rear wheels might even look better, depending on what wheel you pic, but make sure you figure axle width into your choice. Also, if you are going to do much highway, you might want a tire taller than 23" with 4.10's :yes: 225-45-15 = aprox 23"x 8.75" ^^ why so short anyway?

Thanks! That's a great link (and a really nice M37) I added it to post #8 above. She's happy & miserable at the same time. :) The heart of a warrior, with the hips of a 13 year old pooch. Can't wait to get outside, then looks at me like the cold & ice are MY fault :yes:

Some pics from today: I thought this was interesting, hole in the center of the radiator, right where the crank shaft pully is: I'm guessing theres a hand crank that fits in there :yes: Gas tank is almost perfect, just a little surface rust and a dent in the corner: I also learned what happens today if you flip over an OIL BATH aircleaner while trying to seperate the two halves

Todays results I still need to get the plow blade down It's not scraping, leaving an inch or more of hard packed snow. I raised the rear pushbar, but haven't added any slack to the chain yet. I was worried about pushing snow downhill with little to no brakes, But it's actually better than pushing the snow up the hill. Pushing uphill means going down the steep driveway backwards, and the 'blade brakes' work better pushing snow than pulling it. Another 8" or so is falling right now so we'll see if some more chain slack will help tomorrow.

Well.... 1)It needs brakes :D I never had so much excitement without leaving the driveway ;) 2)The plow is set up 'high', since the last owner used it in his dirt driveway/parking lot. So it does not scratch the pavement well. I'm not sure if I should let some slack out of the lift chain, raise the back of the plow for more angle, or both to get it to plow closer to the ground. It does not have plow feet 3)The old warrior doesn't like to flex. It WILL flex, it just greatly disapproves of it :D -loud CRUNCH from hard top, cab flex, pass door flies open. ^^^ while backing up dirt hill next to the garage, Spot where the MJ's in the sig pic below are parked. 4) Funny part of the whole thing is, this 60 year old beaten up, scared, rusted, rotted hulk is also the quietest vehicle I own lol! Exhaust looks recent, and its very quiet. But not enough to hide the slight lope in the engine. Flatty sixes have their own sound, and I like it. :D

Decent info & tech here if anyone is interested; http://www.g741.org/ http://m37.crwdesigns.com/ http://www.steelsold...play.php?27-M37 http://www.powerwago...display.php?f=8 http://www.uglytruck...nder manual.htm http://www.offroad.b....php?f=6&t=1081 Thread on custom replacement wheels; http://www.g741.org/....php?f=3&t=3643 parts; http://www.adirondac...s.com/prod1.htm http://www.easternsu...et/spares1.html http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-vehicle-parts/m37-power-wagon.html http://www.militarystencils.com/ http://www.rapcoparts.com/index.html literature; http://portrayal.com/manuals.html ^^going out of business :( must email & send check/m.o. http://www.militarymanuals.com/military_vehicles_manuals/m37-Series-us-army-dodge-trucks/m37_utility_truck.html ^^^on CD http://www.g741.org/Manuals.html ^^^list of all M37 manuals Misc: http://www.mvpa.org/ http://blog.gieselman.com/post/M37-useful-links.aspx

It was about an hour and a half away in Maine, Don. And yep, it still has the original flatty six. Those six angry little senior citizen hampsters claw away pretty good with the 7:1 first gear & 5.83 axles :yes: I can't wait till the sun comes up tomorrow & I can play with the new toy :D

Posted 10:13am today; http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/1108819-omg-my-fj60-stolen-my-dog-inside-update-found-20.html#post15152985 ^^^pics in link I was going to link the post where he FOUND THE DOG TOO!! But Pirate4x4 site just stopped working for me :(

This is THE page for these wheels; http://www.garbee.ne...ell/riminfo.htm General M37 specs ¾ ton Cargo Truck (Cross Country Rating, 1 ton Highway Rating) Engine Model...T245 Dodge Type..."L" Head, 6 Cylinder Horsepower...BHP-78at 3200 RPM Displacement...230.2 cu. in. Bore...3 1/4" Stroke...4 5/8" Oil Capacity...6 qt. Radiator Capacity...25 qt. Clutch Borg & Beck...Model 11828 10" Single Plate Dry Disc Fuel System Carter Carburetor...Model ETW-1 Down Draft 25 Gallon Tank (vented through engine air intake for fording purposes) Electrical Ignition, Starting, Lights, 24 volts Transmission New Process...Model 88950 (or NP420) 4 Speed, Synchro-Shift in 3rd and 4th gear Transfer Case New Process...88845 (or NP200) Ratio...High 1:1, low 1.96:1 Twin lever operation, one for 4x4 or 4x2 selection, one for hi or low range Axles Dodge Full Floating 9.625" (Hypoid) Ratio...5.83:1 Front Universal Drive...New Process (tracta joint) Brakes Wagner...Hydraulic drum Cargo Model M37...112" wheelbase M37 w/o Winch...5687 lbs., M37 w/Winch 5987 lbs. Tire Size 9.00 x 16 - 8 ply Non-Directional Military Highway Speed 55 MPH, Range 150 miles (6mpg) Hand throttle Hand Choke Direct pushbutton starter actuator

That may be the plan for now, 5.83 gears help it slow down too ;)

CC, I think you are right about both, left side should have left hand threads (and take a 1.5" lug wrench!) And split style wheels are evil. I've been looking at wheel options, but there aren't many. The 5 on 6 7/8" pattern makes it tough. I'd love to get 15" wheels to fit (originals are 16x6.5", I think the drums are 14") I have a set of 37x13-15 Boggers kicking around that would look sweet on it. Recentered Hummer wheels & tires might be my best bet if someone makes the oddball centers. Sad thing is, other than wheels, there's more parts available for these than MJ's! Here's a complete bed floor & front section of the bed for example; http://www.midwestmilitary.net/m37p11.html The same site has NOS axle shafts for $100 each (try finding them for an MJ model 20!)