purplexj

My motor had about 200k on it with lots of blow by. One summer the heater valve cracked during a 90+ heat wave . Dumped all the antifreeze and i drove it home in rush hour blowing steam. Decided to finnish it off and stuck the garden hose in. Did'nt crack so i replaced the valve and drove it another two years. Last year i did not change the oil till it started banging (worse than knocking). I had a low mile 99 4.0 and spare rebuilt 0330 head in my friends garage for 3 years . The motor was free so i did'nt care about the old one that would always run hot and rattle it's valves at hi rpm's. Yella Terra rockers, new header , 3 core rad , bored TB and Hesco spacer , etc, etc. Now all is good . I think a good used 4.0 is the way to go. Stroker would be better though. But i have 4 DD's so always something to work on or available for driving.

If it is a vaccum leak do your brakes feel weak too. Anyway those gears are way off. I recently averaged 16 mpg pulling my 700-900 lb MJ trailer to and from PA from NY. 65-70mph most of the way with some city/rural . 31's and 4.10's with no lack of passing power even with the trailer.

I'm surprised yo needed to make any changes. On my 92 XJ it was a direct swap with no changes needed. Might be a renix thing and i would'nt understand.

Spoken like a true shade tree mechanic. No insult intended. I wold do the same thing except that I never connected my t/c lights. Plus i ignor the upshift arrow anyway. :cheers:

My t/c has a pig tail coming off of it going to a harness running up to the firewall on the pass side. Maybe check those connections. If you shift when the arrow tells you to, you tend to do alot of lugging . Especially pulling a trailer up hill from a stop !

But why is it coming on if he's not driving. Mine only comes on while driving. Try pulling the dash and unplug replug that harness . Or if you have another cluster. I have a couple downstairs.

Swapped mine too, just worked . Mine is not the mechanical gauges (92) but should work.

That makes it alot easier.

I believe the V8 ZJ is the bigger sway bar 30mm , the XJ Limited is 28mm . Either one will be way cheaper than aftermarket. Either one will give you better handling. The diference is minute.

Great looking truck. Your wife and the MJ look much sharper now than they did when they were younger. How come ? Glad camaras are better now . No insults, just comps ya know. Have fun this summer with it.

The Xj Limited models all had the 28MM front sway bar and no rear. I removed my rear bar and you can def notice alot more sway in corners but no loss of control other wise even when towing my trailer. I have a 28mm but not installed yet. My KYB's are starting to feel very soft but in control too , may need a little stiffer shocks in the rear to control roll without having to re-install the rear sway bar.

Hey , I did'nt realize i had posted back in 2008. Anyway the MJ is a trailer for my 2dr XJ. :doh:

There is a violet wire just plugged into the block from the front. When you pull the harness just unplug it. You have to pull up all the rug at the front and it runs behind the console and heat duct. It will just unplug at the kick panels. All the plugs are different so you can't mix them up. You need to push the rubber plug that has the door harness in it to pull the harness through the doors. Drill out all the rivets to remove the power windows and locks. I bolted mine in and did'nt use rivets. The glass comes out with just 1 nut and plastic bushing/washer thingee. When you re-run the main harness keep it up a little higher (keeps it from sitting in water all the time). Once you remove things your more or less an expert at installing it. I did'nt say professional because no ones gonna pay you to work on your own Jeep ! :clapping:

You can use the 4 door harness, just don't plug in the rear door harness. No need to do any cutting. The only difference is the drivers dr switch. AS a note the dr rear will work on the pass front with just a little bending if you can't find a pass mtr with enough power . Run a 12 gu wire directly from the batt with an inline 30amp fuse for more power to the windows and locks. It's a popular upgrade

NAXJA is not like pirate. I would'nt dare speak on pirate. Most people who bash on naxja are just there to bash and don't give advise just opinons. But the nicest people are on CC. Thats why I have an XJ and keep an MJ in my drive way. I look at it and sit in it only I even start it every now and then. Because I can't get the tittle. :dunce:

He's just selling as a collectable item and not as instructions or how to. Plus some of you guys don't need instructions cause your real men . Just like me , I refer to the directions after I cut off 3 feet then angrily look and the directions and and and. Ow bugger ! Bah ,Just kidding. But realy some guys on here don't need no stinkin directions, just a slight nudge in the the general direction. Like the 3800 series in the white MJ . That is a great idea and nicely done. :bowdown:

The only has 2 pieces. The controler that has a vac plg in and the stalk for thle steering col. Everything is plug and play. Very, very, very easy. The stalk has a wire that you run through the col and the plug for it is there . The vac line is just disconnected and re con with a T, included. I paid about $50 years ago. Try Team Cherokee for a new one or I have A 93 Parts car that still has it all. I think you can use the early one's but mount it on the firewall because the cables are shorter. I used an 89 col because it had tilt , but 91 up cruise. Hope this all makes sense.

Wow, really does look great. Might look a little better with the front valance removed. I always thought of removing mine on my xj, but just never got around to it.

I got my MJ for $750 and about 143k, thats low miles to me. My XJ now has almost 225-250k and 2 subaru forresters w/250k . The family van has 208k. All are very reliable and no rust. The Mj runs really great and gets great gas mileage. I put in $4 a month. Of course I only drive it once a week ,in and out of the driveway.

That's the one, some company sells one for mj's. I found it while serching for a bed cover or sunroof. Can't remember which. It shows the roof cut and the rubber seal.

It doesnt remove the entire roof panel, just the part above the door. You can then remove or replace when you want. What would that do to the integrity of the unibody ? I wasnt trying to say MJ's are mini's, but the mod itself as being done by mini owners.

They make a kit that allows you to cut off the from door to door like a hatch top. Removeable . But it does'nt say anything about integrity. It works on other mini's because they are body on frame. I thing I saved it , but not on my laptop.

I have a set and never used them in my XJ. They take up alot of space. Even on the pass side. No way your going to want to use them on the driver side. If you want to try them you can have for shipping , because i know you won't be able to use them, LOL.

I don't really like roll bars on mj's, but it looks good on yours. Must be because your mj looks good already. Gives it a nice finnished look.

Maybe just 2 sets of gutter clamps. I like the slant front. I agree two or three lights built into the front would look good. If you look at GO Jeeps site, you can see the rack on that black xj looks really good.