hakukamana

Pull the instrument cluster fuse, either replace it or clean the terminals. Had a low guage reading swapped out the fuse dead middle on the voltage meter. The dying battery, check your battery charging with a voltage meter to verify that the alternator is doing its job. At start up you should be 14+ and charging. A high 13 would be acceptable, if its below 13 your running off the battery not the alternator.

Rat, perfect those are the housings for the factory bumper. I have the spring clips from the original assemblies. But it is exactly the same part. Thanks for the link. Now I just need to find the end cap for the bumper.

No worries, thanks for checking. I've learned just be patient, or improvise......

The headlight delay is the "Sentinel" feature, silver module bolts up around the headlight switch under the knee kicker, some had some didn't, the wiper delay is a black plastic module that sits again left side of the steering wheel, usually attached with velcro, at the knee kicker. Cruise could be a fuse or a relay.

Thanks the difuser, might just need to be filped for rh or lh. I am hoping its a right.

Thanks for the replies guys. Schardein if you have a RH rear thats what I need. If you can post a pic it would be greatly appreciated. Its for the Eliminator, the bumper needs to be reworked kinda banged up but it all there except the RH end cap, also the license plate light cover, LH side black, that covers the clear lamp lens.

Rear end caps stock step bumper.

Looking for a Cargo light for the eliminator bed, also the plastic end caps for the stock bumper. Thanks

Thanks guys, Mean Lemons thats what I have finally come to realize. I did have the BOM, from the original diff tag, I also have the parts drawings and the parts breakdowns. The ???? is the FSM MR277 indicates for both the standard duty & the HD rear axle a crush sleeve on the pinion. I spoke to Spicer technical support & based on the BOM, Hornbrod you are correct, there is not a crush sleeve, is utilizes shims. So even with FSM's and technical drawings, there are still little quirks to the assembly of certain components on these units. Thanks for the help, we are doing a complete rebuild of the carrier including the Trac Lok clutch packs, axle assemblies, R&P, I will reseal the axle tubes using RTV. Tubes were full of rust & scale, and they were a nightmare to clean. Brakeclean & a big nylon bottle brush on a long stick, along with rags to wipe out the tubes after the stuff broke loose. Talk about no maintanence.

I got a friends 89' 2WD Eliminator, it appears it was ordered with a Dana 44 for a towing pkg. Has 3.54 gears and a AW4 auto, also has Trac Loc carrier. The question is as I started the tear down, no crush sleeve on the pinion???, No preload shims on the carrier bearing caps, but the real head scratcher is what appears to be RTV between the axle tube and the housing. Right behind the carrier bearings, there is a gap which had orange colored what appeared to be RTV. Is that the reminents of a seal or is it really RTV? The funny thing is, it had what appeared to be a radius on the top of the material, thats why I thought it might be a seal. No indicator of a seal in the parts or FSM, any ideas????? We have no idea if anyone has ever been in here before. I am tearing it down due to howling, and growling.

OK this is an FYI for people on the forum, Part number is a Spicer Part Number, 2-3-10391X I have confirmed the dimensions and they are in stock at the Crossville,TN Distribution Center. This the 1310 series u-joint, outside yoke dimension of 3.466, Bearing cap dia of 1.062, centerline of the bearing cap to the end of the shaft 6.00", 26/27 spline count( spline count on the yoke is 26) (spline count on the transmission output shaft is 27). Hopes this helps someone in the future, now I have to find a distributor who can order me one. Hey guys thanks again, Hornbrod as usual your always there for insight and support, many thanks.

Hey guys I need some help. Was helping a buddy yesterday and broke the slip yoke snap ring groove on his manche. What we have is a 1989 Eliminator, 2WD with a AW4. and a D44. Kind of a special setup especially with the 44. I have search the local DS shops like Denny's and the like they don't even know what an AW4 is. Thought it would be straight forward but no such luck. My parts breakdown does not show drive shaft components, so I thought I would ask the forum, I really need to find out where I can get my hands on a new unit. No local JY sources available at this time. 1310 spicer u-joints, 6" barrel length C/L of the yoke to end of barrel, yoke is 26 spline, any help would be greatly appreciated

Looking for a 91,92, MJ/XJ crossbody harness, for PWR windows & PWR Door locks, harness needs to have the relays or the relay connectors installed on the harness. Good Shape, shoot me a picture, tell me a price, don't have a lot of salvage yards and no pick a parts in my area. THX

Thanks hornbrod, its easy once you know the "how to do's"

Being new to the forum I was wondering about the line under the topic or the response where a lot of people list their trucks? Whats that called and how do I get to that area in my profile?

Well finding a used dizzy is not as easy as some would expect. We don't have a lot of JY's over here and there are no MJ's in them, early Cherokees are a rare find as well. I thought I put in the tag line 1987, 4.0L regarding the motor. Went to NAPA and got a reman, $88.00 I think they get these from Cardone, only comes with a 12 month, 18K mile warranty, The oil pressure up the shaft would be my guess as well, didn't realize there was no o-ring on the shaft. I stabbed the reman in last night, tight, very tight fit. I had to walk the shaft down a little at a time to get it to engage with the pump and gear. The old one came right out and dropped right in, not tight in the bore at all. Fired right up, but we will see how long this one lasts. Thanks for the help guys, had a lot of 4.0's in my years but never had one that had oil in the distributor housing. Had me stumped as to how engine oil was walking up into the distributor base.

Just a side note, the distributor is a motorcraft distributor, not a Delphi one, I was a little suprised GM parts I knew were notorious in Jeeps, but Ford parts?

Well as the story goes, started to do Cruisers Renix upgrades and things were going pretty good. Till I noticed engine oil in the base of the distributor, cleaned it all out sprayed it with electronics cleaner, restabbed the distributor back in, works great. Checked it again this morning found about a tablespoon of oil inside the housing, and noticed it splashing up to the walls of the cap. I had checked the seal from the distributor to the engine block, good to go. I am sure that I am getting oil up through the shaft from the crankcase, but how?

OK guys thanks for the tips, the speedo does operate and operates correctly, starts at 0 goes to the correct speed, and then when I stop returns to zero again. The bouncing of the needle occurs 40-45 when crusing, when I am accelerating the needle doesn't bounce. Only when I am in a no load condition does the needle tend to bounce.

Does that include replies to the classified posting?

1 Week old, 2 owner 1987 Beige MJ Metric Tonne, all stock, I have been going through everything, and the most annoying thing is the bouncing speedometer, gear driven single cable, no cruise. Any one have a part number or know of a replacement cable supplier? JY's are rare over here, and MJ's are even rarer, so I either import parts from the Mainland or purchase on line. Any help will be appreciated. Not new to Jeeps, but new to MJ's my first, and what a score.

Looking for some dome lamps functional would be nice I need (2) Paypal or check Bill

The 90' has a AX15 in it. The NP231 shaft is longer than the case I found in the back of the truck. The spline counts are 23, it is more of the issue of input shaft length. The newer 231's have an electric shift switch, that can be changed out to the Command Trac vacumn switch and the existing harness will plug directly into that. The new tranny seal is a good idea just to make sure of the sealing on the shaft.

Brand new to the forum, and just picked up a new Jeep MJ project. Only problem is I had to tow it home. 90 MJ, broken NP231, it was removed and the case was disassembled kind of. Driveshafts were on the ground and it had not been started in 5 years. Got it started, I have a NP231 from a 99' TJ wrangler, and I was looking at the old case which I think came out of the MJ but am not sure. It has the short shaft. The NP231 from the TJ is a long shaft, the new case is in cherry condition. I am no stranger to Jeep's, YJ's are in my blood but I just had to have a MJ. I really need to know short shaft NP231 for the AX15 in the MJ or Long shaft? Both are 23 spline.