hakukamana

Ok, hooked the red brick up guess what can't read IAC steps with the Snap On Modis, MT2500, does not provide that function. I did check engine RPM, AC off, AC on and as everyone has said no noticeable difference in engine idle RPM. The Eliminator is an automatic and does idle higher than the Metric Ton, engines are the same. Just one is manual and one is an automatic. Different ECU's also. I have a 29 in one and a 28 in the automatic.

OK, that makes sense. Probably a dumb question, but I like to know how things work. If Ohm is correct its got to be something internal to the ECU.

I am going to plug in the Red Brick and see if I can see a difference in stepper motor steps.

Hornbroad, no bogging down, just no real increase in the idle from no AC to AC on. Its just like it doesn't care that the AC is on. I guess I was expecting a little bump in the idle due to load. I can see the volt meter, sensing the blower draw.

Ok Ohm that makes sense, I just pulled the ECU diagram, (3) connections to the ECU relative to AC. Pin A12 A/C Relay Ground goes to the AC clutch relay, Pin C2 A/C Request to A/C thermo switch, Pin D2 A/C Select goes to the AC low pressure switch. I don't see anything that would indicate the ECU does anything with the stepper motor Pins B3,B4,B5,B6 all tie into the stepper motor, but does not tie into the AC circuit. Weird?

OK, just finished the install of the AC system, in the eliminator. Things went well, charged, used a gauge set. My question is regarding the engine idle and how the idle is supposed to increase when the system is turned on? It idles normal with it off, it idles the same with the AC on. I was under the impression that when the AC system is engaged the idle is supposed to increase a little, to handle the increased load. I just don't know how it knows that the AC is on, and what tells the motor to increase the RPM's? The electric fan, engages when the AC is switched on, so that circuit is working correctly. The AC also engages when the switch is turned on and the clutch engages. I am betting its something in the ECU?????

Coolwind I double checked my rig, that your accelerator cable from the pedal, if you trace it back goes through the fire wall and has the cable with the small plastic retainer that goe through the hole on the back of the pedal bracket. It looks like it got brittle and cracked, Cherokee 4.0 probably would work if the same length. Sorry for the miss information. Needed to be responsible and correct the bad data.

Hilo got hammered, the rain is still falling they got over 3' feet of rain so far. Major washouts, landslides, road closures. I live on the Kona side, did not get much of anything, no wind, very little rain, but the entire state took (2) days off. What does that cable attach to? If its a servo cable there should be a black can up by the cowl over by the pressure bottle. The cable would be the servo control cable for the cruise. Cruise control is a hit or miss, lots of parts and everything needs to be functional. One part fails and the whole system is shot

Do you have cruise control?, it appears to be the servo cable for the cruise control. It has a connector that connects to the accelerator linkage. It would not effect the normal accelerator function unless it were to start binding. It is engaged when the cruise servo is energized, and vac is applied to the servo, the servo will pull on the cable linkage and maintain, increase or decrease, based upon the commanded functions, from the stalk switch or the brake pedal.

If you have the time, take a look at the back of the cluster. I am sure you know that the circuits and guages are all connected by a mylar board. Also check the seating of the connector and the terminals. It is not unusual to see some corrosion, either on the connector or the terminals, also the circuit board has specific grounds on the board, they are usually attached to specific guages with the use of a phillips head screw, maybe something has gotten loose. Just don't over tighten the screws the plastic is probably brittle due to its age. The board is also very delicate, so be careful.

Google Jeep vin decoder, or contact "Jeep" "Chrysler" customer service home page and see if they can find your Vin in the system. Sometimes they have the records sometimes the unit is not in their system. Its like the build sheet but in plainer english.

Was your swap a 4.0 HO? or a non Renix computer swap? If so the harness is going to be ODB I so things may not line up exactly.

That looks like an ODBI diagnostic connector. The electric fan relay is on the header clip LH side of the radiator. It usually has a plastic holder for the connector and the relay plugs into it.

I had a customers Ford f150 truck that had death wobble like your describing, about a 6" lift, big tires, and a lot of abuse. Didn't happen until you hit that certain pot hole, or unevenness in the roadway. We could not figure it out until we looked at the frame, yes the frame of the truck was cracked. I know MJ's are a unibody, but take a look at where things are connected to the unibody, a flange, a mounting point, if you can get the mud, undercoating, and what ever else is on there off. It may reveal a weak, cracked or broken, mounting point for your steering or suspension.

Take a look at the Napier Flares, not cheap but you have to cut away to install them anyway. You may just need to trim now that the wheel openings are in place. Doug is pretty good at making suggestions. My bedsides were in good shape and the wheel openings were stock so I had to fit and trim to make the flares work.

Ok guys thanks for the input. Its just a paint code, I have been doing this for over three decades and know a little about the Jeep history, but I am still learning on a daily basis. Company's, Models, Years, they all make a difference when it comes to parts, build sheets, codes, and the like. I try to be accurate when I work on things to bring them back to factory spec's, sometimes it works other times you just have to deal with the current status of things. I let you know what happens either way. Thanks for the help.

Auto/Truck/Fleet Paint Cross Reference at PaintRef.com, I just used this site and I must say the detail and the information is solid. It takes a little getting used to regarding the year, and make, but they do have paint codes, color chip sheets, and a variety of paint manufacturers codes. Including the factory paint codes.

Q7SA = Bucket, Luggage Cloth Charcoal but still no interior paint code???? OK Q7 must be the Cloth Bucket trim code, the SA would be the interior paint color= Charcoal. why would they make it so difficult?

HOrnbrod, The body code plate is the plate on the drivers side cowl next to the fender? I have those codes and they don't make sense here's how they read on my tag. APA (monotone paint scheme, not a two tone) PE4 (Should be Colorado Red) QE4 (should be Colorado Red) Q7SA ( Should be some Gray Color) ERB (the 4.0L) PE4 & QE4 should be Colorado Red, thats what the truck was originally. Q7SA should be the interior trim code, no luck with that code.

No I have all the parts, I am just trying to refresh the existing parts I have. I did this on a 93' YJ Sahara and was able to paint the interior a dark green to match the door panels. The body is Hunter Green Poly Metallic, so it all ties together. Never saw a YJ with a green interior color so I thought it was pretty unique. The MJ has the Grey Interior, Jeep Gray, or you get Jeep Tan, that's usually the choice. I just can't find an interior paint code.

I am having problems trying to find a grey interior color code for a 89' eliminator. No radiator tag, only the drivers side cowl tag. I tried TCP Global but no having any luck with gray. I usually buy PPG DCI interior paint for the plastic interior parts, also had good luck with the dash. Just can't find the gray code. Any help would be appreciated.

The final decision has been made, thanks for the compliments on the eliminator, and being old school I have decided to rebuild the 44 with thick gears and rebuild the clutches. One ???? I checked Randy's R&P and they have smooth and agressive clutch packs. Any insight into these?

Maybe its time to apply the KISS principle, I know I need the 4.11's for the 32's, and the 44 is the right axle. Why screw with what actually works. Put in the thick gears, up the ratio, rebuild the clutch packs, and be done with it. In the long run its probably going to be the most cost effective and bullet proof solution. Its not driven hard but lava is like steel sandpaper, it tears up tires and you really don't want to be spinning your tires on the stuff. I've seen brand new tires wasted on a 1/2 mile lava trail.

OK, the 2WD Eliminator is coming along and it appears that at 261K the Dana 44 TracLoc is now an open diff. The addition of a Baby T-Bird coil lift and some adjustable boomerang shackels has got the truck up about 3 1/2" over stock no rake. It looks good at that height. New BFG AT KO2's at 265/75/17's has got the stance and the rubber that it needs. Napier flares and the correct trimming has everything turning correctly. Now back to the rear diff, I plan on a gear change 4.11's to turn the 32's. Yes, the carrier break either requires me to go with thick gears 4.11T's and rebuild the TracLoc clutches, or install an open carrier and install an Aussie auto mechanical locker? Or I could go Power Trax have an auto locker in a Trac Loc carrier and use thick gears. I just don't know which way to go. 80% on pavement 20% rough Hawaiian lava based (we call them roads) you would call them trails. After a rain it can be tough getting up some 30/40% inclines. I really don't want to do a conversion to the drive train, everything right now is pretty well set up steering, suspension, transmission, engine, sometimes I just need a little extra grip getting up those lava roads. I have looked at Detroits, Aussie, Power Trax, the choices are out there its just selecting the correct way to do what I need to get a little more traction on demand.