Tactical Bacon

I was thinking of using the JB to put the fitting back on the end of the line.

Think JB Weld might hold the fitting to the end of the line? I don't really have the time or means to drive to a parts store right now and hunt around for a part they probably aren't going to have in stock or even at their hub.

Probably, though there isn't much point to getting that old fitting out that I can see. I don't think it can really be reattached to the line.

Kinda sorta. Not exactly sure since it's stuck in the old master and I haven't been able to get it out even after digging after it with a pair of pliers. Definitely looks like that could work.

Why would I need a flaring tool when it's a plastic line?

So, replacing the master cylinder today. Get the old one unbolted and get the roll pin knocked out. Go to pull the line out of it and it just snaps off. The majority of the metal end is still in the old master. The lip of it is still in the line. So, I'm screwed atm. Can't find the clutch line for it anywhere. I need a solution asap. 1991 Comanche 4.0 AX15 2wd

I went ahead and pulled the leafs because it'll be easier to put them on the replacement axle, roll it under the truck, and then bolt it all back up. As far as the shocks, they helped me steer haha. That, and they cost like $16 at work for me.

Yeah, I would call the D35 dainty. Worse than a 10-bolt, it seems. Photos of the damage to the original axle. The replacement is out of an 88. Operation Franken-Manche shall be completed tomorrow when it is 30 and sunny.

Oh, fun fact, I found out that I can lift a D35 by myself. Go figure...

Fortuitously?, I already have Grade 8 stainless hardware under there from where I had to replace the leafs after I got hit. Yeah, those gears have been doing some howling lately. Though I would hope my Jeep would direct the hatred towards the person who hit us. Agreed. It was on it's last leg when I got home. It was starting to lose gear oil out the left side of the pumpkin at the bottom of the left axle tube.

It's 2wd for now and the MJ D35 is the same 3.07 as mine. Though it'd be better if it was a 3.55 or something with the 31s I have. It's the housing. Both tubes are bent up. Don't know how I didn't see it before. Major negative camber. Seems to be the consensus and probably what I'm going to do. I should be able to swap the rear axle in a day.

How much would moving the spring perches probably cost? I'm assuming 2-3 hours of labor? Edit: I do have a few friends with a welder though I'm not sure how much skill it takes to weld on new perches.

91 Comanche with a 3.07 D35. As some of you may know, someone t-boned me a few months ago. Just now noticed that the rear axle is bent and needs replacement. Got a few options, need some opinions. NOTE: My funds are limited to about $250, this needs to happen relatively quickly so I can't just sit on my hands and wait for an MJ D44 to just show up on Craigslist, I can't go driving 800 miles cross country after a part due to school and work, and I have neither the time or funds to spend on trying to put together a lot of small parts to make an axle swap work. I can't be hunting for brake hoses and cables and yoke adapters and all that mess. 1. Someone about 2 hours away has an MJ D35, same gears, for $50. 2. One of my buddies has a C-Clip D35 LSD 3.73 out of a TJ that I can have for free. 3. Someone else has a D35 from a YJ. 4. I can try and find an 8.25 or something like that to swap into it. All opinions are appreciated and if someone has a better idea I didn't think of, please let me know because I need it.

I hate to go off on a tangent, but did either of those Jeeps at the pull-a-part have a decent condition short box? Mine is pretty well ragged out after taking a hit at 45 mph.

Yuck. I'll take a raincheck. Indefinitely.

Well, ordered some 2-3" front shocks from rough country and got some Moog CC784 coil springs so I should be looking at about 2.25" of lift over stock height when they get here on Monday and I install them (and right now the front is sagging pretty bad haha) so I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks. If needs be, I'll also be getting some 2-3" rear shocks and rear lift shackles from RC for it, too. Pictures will be posted most likely on Monday or Christmas (my two days off this week).

A little slop is normal. My LT1's timing chain had something like an inch of travel at 167k miles when I pulled the timing cover to replace the gasket which was about where the travel was on a new one.

Did someone say spacers? http://www.roughcountry.com/wheel-spacers-1090.html

They should be (the yoke replacement was done by a local shopowner I know semi-personally, does quality work) but I'm going to get out after them with a box end wrench when I get home from work tonight. Though they could have loosened up in the weeks after having it replaced. The steering wheel feels like its bouncing up and down, too, but that could be a trick.

What probably happened is when you flushed the system out, there was still water left in the block. Then, when you filled it with the pre-mix, it mixed with the water already in there bringing the ratio of coolant to water down to an unsatisfactory level. That's one possiblity, and I'm not taking sides. I personally hate that universal crap. It's bad juju to use in anything except for when you're trying to make it to the shop or trying to survive until payday so you can flush the system and fill it with the proper OEM required coolant (fun fact, the universal fails to meet the OEM spec requirements of IAT, OAT, and HOAT). Not to mention it says it can mix with any color but when you mix it with some of the new Chrysler and Ford HOATs, it messes crap up and then people b*@$£ me out because they bought it where I work. But I digress. Good luck with any legal battles you might pursue and like others said, start working on fixing it yourself, then fill it up with the OEM green.

I really need to get after my sig. 91 Comanche Pioneer, 2wd, AX15, 4.0, shock height, has 31x10.5s on 15x8 Canyons from a Wrangler (been on it since end of October), both u-joints are relatively new as I replaced them myself less than 1000 miles ago, replaced the pinion yoke with one that uses u-bolts instead of u-straps around the same time.

Pretty self explanatory. Only happens if I'm giving it some gas from 60 and up. Goes pretty much completely away if I let off the gas completely or floor it. Doesn't always happen. Started about three weeks ago, hadn't really done anything to it recently.

if the resistor is bad it should still work on high speed. Depends on what went wrong with the resistor and what kind of car it is. I know that anything Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep for the past 15 years or so is that way but I haven't had the pleasure of diagnosing one of our 'Manches yet.

It's what I'm going to do. Cut the holes, put JB Weld around the edge, overlap the new plate 1" on each side, drill it, rivet it, bedliner on the inside, undercoat the outside, thick enough you can't see the rivets.