Jess

That was kind of my first thought but I couldn't clearly see a weak spot around the housing. It's been ages since I replaced the thermostat though so it's probably due. Yeah, I hate this thing and the conversion is definitely on my list of things to do. It's just been working fine for a while and when that happens I forget how much I hate it lol. Thanks guys

I just replaced my water pump in April of last year (Napa part) and I've been noticing this dried coolant on what I think is the weep hole? My coolant bottle has also very clearly been leaking. I thought maybe it was just the cap and since I have a whole spare bottle I swapped caps (didn't have time to swap the whole bottle) but after a 10-15m drive to work it was kind of gurgling and I could see coolant leaking from the bottle. So I'll grab more coolant and swap the bottle after work but should I replace the pump as well? No overheating problems but I'm making a 9hr drive on Friday and would rather eliminate as many variables as I can lol.

I'd be interested!

I've logged 19,821 miles on Fuelio (every fillup since I started using the app). 101 fillups, 17.96 average MPG.

Thanks!

Anyone have a recommendation for a decent Clutch Master Cylinder? It doesn't look like there's a ton of parts out there but these Autozone & Napa parts just aren't lasting for me.

This is really awesome, thanks! I'm thinking about doing this sooner rather than later. You mentioned that the Rubicon take offs are gas charged. Does that mean that the black ones from Sports or w/e aren't? I've been watching for them on Ebay but it seems like the all black shocks are more common.

I used this stuff from Amazon. I used to use the cheap stuff from Home Depot but it never lasts. So far this lasted 2 years.

If you haven't already you might consider upgrading to 4 or 12 hole injectors. I've been using these 4 hole injectors for a few years now, they're great. But apparently, 12 hole injectors are all the rage now.

I've made a couple posts about this but basically, HVAC was switching to defrost while climbing hills/high rpm. I've looked over lines a few times, I was almost certain the problem was behind the dash. I relocated the vacuum reservoir to below the coolant bottle and then I gave up and decided to wage an epic battle replacing my LCA/UCA bushings. After may curse words (and days) I got that done and when I went to test drive my truck, the vacuum leak was even worse. Long story short, I went over everything again and found huge holes in the line that runs from the reservoir to the firewall, I think it fell apart when I was bending the lines to fit it under the coolant bottle and that was why it got worse. I cut that line back to where it was still flexible and in the process found another huge hole on the other line that runs from the firewall to the HCV (I think?). That line is very brittle looking and too short to cut so I ended up carefully pulling the plug off and sliding a piece of shrink tube down and that did the trick. I guess the lesson learned here is to be more attentive when inspecting things. Or just replace all the vacuum lines before the crumble into pieces... Speaking of that, does anyone know if the lines can be removed from the grommet on the firewall? Or is that thing just a sleeve that'll require pulling the dash away? This thing is toast and my little shrink tube fix won't last forever.

Yeah - Sorry. I thought about highlighting it. It's running diagonal right above that hex-cap screw. I don't really. I should just order a new one since it's cheap. Side note, I've done several of the tips on your website. Thanks for putting that together, it's awesome.

I made a post about my vacuum leak awhile back and you guys helped me figure out what's actually going on. Now I'm actually trying to fix it lol. So I have an 89 with the 4L/4WD and without going into tons of backstory, I pulled my dash to fix a water leak like 2 years ago. Sometime after that, I noticed that when I have my AC/Heat/Vent/Anything on and I'm climbing up a hill, the AC switches to defrost until I release the gas. Then, it goes back to whichever mode the controls are set to. It will do this occasionally on level ground but it's much more pronounced in 3rd/4th up a hill. I inspected the Vacuum reservoir in the front bumper and it appears fine. I looked over the lines in the engine compartment, can't see anything there either. I thought maybe it was the stupid vacuum disconnect for the axel since it's so loosy-goosy but disconnecting that and plugging the lines made no difference. I removed the stereo and lower dash to inspect everything I can see hoping I won't have to take the rest of the dash off but I'm not seeing anything clearly broken or loose except some cracks on the AC Control unit itself: There is another screw on the right side of the unit that has a similar crack as well and just flexing the unit will spread the crack apart. But I don't know how vacuum is routed through there and if it's possible that this could be the source of a leak. I have a Chrysler Service Manual for the 1990 Jeeps. I don't think there's much change between 89 and 90's as far as this is concerned? But I went through all the modes on my truck and they matched up with this (except my control unit doesn't have "Max AC"): So that at least gives me some sense that I reconnected the lines correctly when I reinstalled the dash. It's entirely possible that there are cracks on the lines I missed - They are all original with 267k miles on them so I'm sure they could all be replaced. I'm trying to follow lines back and inspect logically but as you guys know, they're not all super easy to get to. Jess

http://teamcherokee.com I got the window wipes/whiskers and channel runs for the back and dividers too. All fit great and I can actually hear myself think while I'm driving now.

Same year ones. My old ones just had 260k miles so they where pretty flat lol.

Maybe I'm blind but I can't figure this out - I just installed new seals on both of my 89 MJs doors. My driver side now takes considerable force to fully shut and when I open it from the outside you can feel it pop back at you. Do I adjust this at the latch or do I need to mess with the hinge side? My searches haven't turned up much and I'm afraid to mess up my doors alignment or break my latch if one or the other isn't necessary lol.

Interesting. Is the defrost always quieter than the heater? Mine is almost the exact same sound. You guys were right though, the defrost starts blowing when I'm climbing. My reservoir thing in the bumper isn't screwed in anymore so it's been bouncing around for awhile - I'll have to take it out and give it a once over.

Recently I did some "repairs" to my 89 MJs HVAC system, new Blower + resistor, bunch of other crap. I've been experiencing a phenomenon that I don't remember pre-HVAC repairs where the Blower slows to an almost stop when I'm accelerating up a hill and the RPMs are high, once I get to the top and shift, the blower speeds back up. The problem is I almost never notice it untill it speeds back up so I'm not positive on the conditions which it occurs. I just know I notice it more when climbing hills. Could this be a battery problem? I was thinking vaccum at first but there isn't any lines in the blower that I can recall so that doesn't make sense.

I flipped my Peugeot bracket when I swapped to the AX15. It took a little dialing but it works.

I probably should have done this from the start but I added more rows and deleted all but my top row of info (for an example) so you guys wouldn't have to delete my crap. Should be cleaner to work with now. I'll update the link up top but here it is as well.

Oops, yeah I should have mentioned you'd need a Google account to copy it. But, if you see the Download as option under the File menu you should be able to save a local copy as an xls or whatever and use Excel or equivalent to edit it.

I recently decided that I should keep better track of how much mileage I've been putting on some newly installed parts so I decided to make a spreadsheet and figured I'd share it in case it was useful for someone else. I had written down my most recent repairs (Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints) but for the rest, I used Google Map's Timeline feature to get a ballpark idea of how much driving I've done since my AX15 swap last year. If you have Location History off on your phone then this feature might not work for you, assuming you need it. It's pretty simple, Enter "Installed Mileage" for the part(s). When you want to check the parts mileage, update your Current Mileage at the top and the difference will be displayed in the Mileage column. The rest is kind of optional. I added a Part # column with links to online stores, when I installed the parts, and a "Used Mileage" which was for my AX15 since it came out of an XJ with 150k or so miles. Obviously. you can add your own parts, just copy the formula from one of the other Mileage entries. Jeep Parts Mileage III You can click File > Make a Copy, and it will save to your Google Drive and unlock so you can put your info in. If you don't have a Google account or want to save it for offline use: Click File > Download as > Microsoft Excel. Update: Cleaned out my links and info so you don't have to delete it, added more rows.

Thanks guys! I figured there had to be something there but that looks unfamiliar so it must have been missing when I got my truck. I just put a knock off dynamat product on the back ((and whole interior) so I was just going to glue carpet to that but I may check the Pick N Pull and see if I get lucky.

This is more of a curiosity question, I've been looking at pictures and of course, all the interior photos are of the dash/seats. My Comanche came with a bench but years ago we took it out and modified later year Cherokee buckets to fit. I cut some headliner carpet and glued it to the back of the cab and it has that long plastic trim piece the covers the carpet edge. But for the life of me, I can't remember if there was something there before I glued the carpet down. If you got stock buckets was it just bare metal or was there an extended trim piece?

Fixing this right now. Mine is leaking from the antenna cable, where the HVAC/Heater box meets the firewall (or could be the blower motor seal on the engine side) and on the driver side at the fuse box. I originally thought my leak was coming from the fresh air intake under the cowl but it seems to be ok there.