Jess

I think this was it! When I pulled the pump out the hose on the outlet side slipped right off. I seated it higher up on the port and tightened it down a ton. I also re-tightened the pump side for good measure. Then spent what felt like an eternity getting the pick up to plug back into that dumb grommet in the tank. I did disconnect the breather from the charcoal canister and blew on it for good measure, nothing came out so I dunno. Regardless it basically started right up. I could tell there was more pressure the moment I started attaching the pressure gauge to the valve and it sprayed gas all over me, something it wasn't doing before. Pressure is bang on 31psi/39 with vacuum removed. I drove it up and down the street, seems to be running great. Thank you all so much, I cannot express how appreciative I am for your help and support.

So I just unplugged the breather tube that runs Infront of the pump so it wasn't in my way of taking the pump out and water poured out of it. That doesn't seem right? Could water trapped in the vents be causing this? So before this trip I was having CA SMOG issues. I had low fuel pressure (not this low) and I replaced the pump+screen+breather vents on top and all the hoses connected to them as they were rotted pretty bad and a new gas cap. I don't think that inevitably helped me pass SMOG but it was on my to do list so I figured I might as well so all these gaskets and stuff are new. Not sure how water could have got in there. There has been a lot of rainy driving here and hitting some huge puddles (so fun!)

That sucks. Brand new Bosch fuel pump (like 3k miles). Btw shouldn't the fuel pressure increase when I pull the vacuum line on the regulator? Could it be bad too or is that also a side effect of a bad fuel pump?

Maybe that isn't the correct way to bypass it?

Still stock. But I did try jumpering the wires together the other day to see if it would do anything (it didn't).

9.75v with engine on

I'm getting around 8psi key on/engine off and 15psi at idle until it stalls then it very quickly drops to 0. No change in psi removing the vacuum line on the pressure regulator.

Yeah that just broke a couple months ago when I put inna new TPS. The clip on the IAC connector has been broken for years as well. Both are on my to-do list.

I don't see any smoke. I called Lordco, Napa & Canadian Tire and Canadian Tire is the only one with tool rentals but the friend I'm visiting has a mechanic friend who's letting me borrow a fuel pressure tester and hopefully a compression tester tomorrow. The neighbor here did have a vacuum gauge which was reading 20-25Hg at normal idle (while it lasted). No idea how accurate his gauge is. I used the vacuum reservoir port on the intake manifold. I went over every vacuum line and ground point today and couldn't find anything.

Just checked the bolts, nothing was blatantly loose but I was able to snug a few of them. Checked MAP hose, looks good. I did tip #31 about 40k miles ago but I did a thorough inspection of it a few weeks before I left on this trip. I inspected it, it's very clean as is the whole TB as I cleaned it before this trip. 1-8, 11-14, 25, 28, 29, 31, 32 and probably a few others. No worries. Thanks for the thought, appreciate it! This is my biggest worry. Engine oil (from dip stick at least) looks normal. I'm going to try and source a compression tester from one of the neighbors here today and hope I can rule that out.

*Richmond/New Westminster BC

Queensborough

I haven't checked that one yet but I have done all of cruisers grounding tips including adding a new ground for the fuel pump to the frame.

Hey friends, looking for some advice. I'm from California but I'm up visiting friends in Canada. I haven't driven my truck a ton while I've been here but when I have driven it it's been fine, until last night. I drove from where I'm staying to a friend's, roughly 10m drive, it was fine. When I went to leave a few hours later, truck wouldn't start. I was able to get it to move by giving it a ton of gas but it sounded horrible and I could tell it didn't want to drive so I pulled over and had it towed. I've been working on it today, haven't found anything glaring so I made this video, mostly for audio purposes of how it sounds. Once I can tell its going to start it idles super low like it's about to stall, then it shoots up to 1500 or so rpm before dropping back down to normal rpm of 900ish. It'll hover there for a few before dropping down to 400ish. Sometimes it'll go back up to normal idle or sometimes it'll just stall out as it does here. I'm kind of leaning toward this is a fuel delivery problem or bad gas but I dunno. Any help would be appreciated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/oejjdCZyLU3mFyfN7

I did many years ago but this has prompted me to do it again as it seems there's a few I missed.

Long story short, I think it's the fuel pump relay. I tried swapping (what I believe to be) the fuel pump relay and the oxygen sensor heater relay (the two closest to the starter relay) and it turned right on. I did some process of elimination to verify that (at least) that relay isn't working. It will start and run every time now with those relays swapped so I'll go grab some new ones and see how we do . Thanks everyone for the help!

I actually had my fancy set of ThunderVolt ones break and thought that may have been part of the problem. I replaced them with the Belden part from Napa, they probably have 10 miles on them.

So Sunday evening after doing a compression test (I haven't been able to find mine for ages so I borrowed one + the fuel pressure tester from a friend and figured I'd check that as I've been meaning to for ages) I couldn't get it to start AT ALL. Monday morning I tried hammering the CPS closer to the flywheel with a long dowel to see if maybe it had come loose or something. It started on the first turn after that. I was kind of amazed! I let it idle for awhile because the battery had gotten low after the compression testing and after about 10 minutes it killed itself. I tried the hammer trick again and nothing. That was when I tested the CPS. Today I replaced that CPS with another Echlin/Napa part and it again, won't start. I haven't tried drilling out the hole yet in case this one is bad as well and I have to return it. My meter is metering around the same .2VAC but I have suspicions that my meter is junk so I'm going to borrow one tomorrow to test it. I guess I could clean/drill out my original one and see what that does, I never metered it - I pulled it out to clean it and found it crudely wrapped in electrical tape because it had touched the manifold and melted at some point. I tried bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor as I've seen videos of it causing a similar issue, still no start. I went over my fuel pressure notes and I did test it with the key on/engine off and it came in at 28PSI. Apparently, it should be 31? Could 3 PSI actually be causing it to not start? I did try some starter fluid the other day and it wouldn't turn over so I'm guessing that it isn't fuel related. I checked my fuel pump ground and it's still clean.

That's a good point. It was running fine when I tested it. After I replaced that CPS it never started with the miss, it would really only happen after driving it for a bit. I tested the CPS this morning and it looks like it has around 0.2 volts going to it. I got a replacement and will install it tomorrow. I was wondering though, I know shavings from the clutch could stick to the CPS and cause it to have a weak signal, is it possible for the flywheel to get dirty and do the same? This was the most concurrent amount of driving I've done in this truck and it was a lot of dusty, bumpy gravel roads + rain + my dumb oil leak from valve cover.

Thanks for the response! I tested my fuel pressure yesterday, it was 32psi at idle, pulling the vacuum line off the regulator boosted it to 40. I saw a guide for CPS testing, I'll check it out in the morning.

I just finished a 6800 mile round trip drive from California to Alaska. About 900 miles in I filled up my tank and when I went to start the truck it turned over but didn't start. I cranked it a second time and it started. My assumption was maybe I got some bad gas. This was an intermittent problem for the whole two and a half week trip. Some days it would start every time, others it wouldn't start several stops in a row. I basically just crank it over and over until it starts. Giving it gas wouldn't seem to help. I also have had it shut itself off twice while at idle. About 3500 miles into the trip or so it started misfiring. I should say I don't know for sure if it was an actual misfire but it was a loss of power and a noticeable vibration. Sometimes it'd be stumbling while accelerating and then it would clear out, kind of like if you where blowing on a straw with a clog in it and then it the blockage shot out, I'd get this boost of horsepower back and it'd run totally fine. It seems like it would trigger when I'd slow down to idle or get in traffic or something like that. This become more frequent toward the end of the trip. My last 900 or so miles home it was missing pretty much the whole time. My gas mileage dropped from around 20 to 17. After I got to Vancouver I did check over the Ignition system, everything looked fine except the rotor, the top contact was bent, had a cut in it and had some carbon on it like it was sparking weird. I replaced it and towards the end of the trip I replaced the distributor cap. Neither fixed anything of course. I have a very small amount of left/right play on my rotor but it's not wobbling or anything so I think my distributor is ok? My spark plugs and wires only have 13000 miles on them. I had replaced my Ignition Coil recently as well (don't see it in my spreadsheet but it probably has less than 13k on it after this trip as well). When I got home I started looking for posts with similar issues and one of the big things I read to check was the CPS. As far as I can tell mine was still from the factory (291k miles now) so I replaced it with a Echlin/Napa part. it seemed promising for about a day (it could be just an illusion but my truck feels much more responsive) but I noticed a few stumbles again and then it just started not starting again. The misfire seems to be happening less but the lack of starting is just as bad. I did cruisers ground refresh tips awhile ago and upgraded my battery cables with a 4awg kit from ksuspension last year. Sorry for the wall of text, I'm just not sure where to go from here. Thanks, Jess

I was planning to order a Luk but it couldn't get here as soon as I needed it so I got an Exedy MC342 (from what I understand they're pretty much the same?). It feels much better built than the Autozone/Napa parts I had before. So far I'm happy with it but I've only put 900 miles on it so time will tell.

At some point, the cooling fan in my MJ died and was replaced it with one from the Pick 'N Pull that doesn't fit correctly. I've had to have my rad repaired twice over the years because of those fan strap-kits rubbing holes in the pipes. Fearing it would happen again I bought one of those later model 9 blade fans that actually fit in the slots and mount properly. I had to splice the old connector on but no big deal. The thing is, I don't think I've heard the old fan run in years so I'm trying to figure out what's going on. My fan connector runs directly from the fan, along the fender and firewall to the relay labeled "A/C Clutch Relay" in this picture. It's the one closest to the diagnostic ports. But apparently, there's supposed to be a temperature switch in the radiator (my rad is capped off) and a fan relay beside the airbox on the firewall? The wire itself looks factory (It's like a lighter blue wire + black wire). If it is supposed to be connected to the A/C Clutch Relay could it be not working because I have my Compressor disconnected? The A/C system isn't working so I've just had the power disconnected.

The bar itself was just part of the support structure for the shell but I used it to neatly hide wires. I ran a wire through it from the right side where I had a previous grounding post/power lead and used two of these LED bars from Amazon (the second light is just off the frame on the right) with a dimmer switch.

Here's mine. The tag has been scratched pretty bad so I'm not sure who made it, looks like Creation? Not sure if that's a brand or model. I can ask the PO as he's a family friend and the original owner. It fits mostly ok, it used to have a rubber seal between the cap and cab but it never sealed properly mostly because the light at the top of cab kept it from sitting flush. Over the years I've replaced it with layers of garbage Home Depot weather stripping until finally having a piece of plexi cut and sealing it off completely. If I sit here and think about it I've done alot to this thing - resealed the windows, painted it (a couple few actually). Put in LED lights and I've been using this waterproof RV roof tape to seal cracks. For the most part my waterproofing endeavors have improved but the big problem is door. HD junk doesn't work and I haven't been able to find the correct size bulb tubing.