ajohnson928

No personal experience but I've read and heard of several people having issue with those prestone inline coolant flush fittings. Our system runs very hot and that plastic fatigues very easy. Just a word to the wise that it is plausible that will break and blow out on you. Thanks for the tip. The PO put that in. I'm planning to do the change over to an open system at some point so I'll eliminate that at that time. For now she sits solid at just a hair over 210 once warmed up. Even sitting in traffic with the AC on.

I'll research those posts and refer to some manuals to get it figured out. My idle once warmed up sits around 500. I am planning to clean out the IAC to get it smoothed out some but generally it idles fine.

Thanks for saving me the trip to the locksmith. I don't think I can find a full set in the JY with the key as well so I'll probably look around for a matched set with key.

Now I've got more concerns because the vacuum connections in your last picture are different than mine. The large hose on my MJ is in front but in rear on yours. The small vacuum hose on mine goes up to the little solenoid on the firewall where you have a small red line running to the throttle body. She runs so I guess it's not bad. I just wonder if the PO messed things up or if mine is different from the factory. Hmmmm. As far as clean up... I'm planning to do that soon. I've been too busy fixing major things. I've only had her for a month or so and I only have some weekend time to turn wrenches. Thanks for the part numbers. A lot of the vacuum hoses under the hood are looking dry rotted so I was planning on doing a lot of replacing. I'll just get a kit and knock them all out at once.

As you can see in the pictures the rubber grommet that goes on the valve cover is gone and this hose was just stuck in there. Anyone know the part number or at least the proper name for the part? It's the larger opening in front of the oil fill cap. And as always if you happen to have one laying around PM me. Thanks

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that I'd have to change the entire steering column (and probably more) in order to update the key. Am I right?

I'm not sure I want to know what a locksmith will charge for this but I'll stop by Monday and ask them.

Do all MJ's have separate door and ignition keys or just the early ones? It's been decades since I had to fumble around with two keys to get in and drive my vehicle. If the later ones have one key, as I suspect, has anyone tackled a conversion before? Thoughts on doing one?

My MJ doesn't have a the optional factory clock or a radio right now. I'm looking at radios but usually aftermarket ones make you choose between music info on the display or the clock. I'd much rather see the music info. Anyone have a functional one laying around they'd like to part with?

The price difference on calipers is usually based on if it's "loaded" (comes with pads and hardware) or "bare" just the caliper itself. Also if it's new or remanufactured. The cheapest option probably isn't the best but there's no reason to go top of the line either. The piston in the caliper can get stuck if it overextends because of thin pads but it doesn't automatically stop working altogether. If the caliper needs to be replaced be sure to get new copper washers for the banjo bolt where the hydraulic line comes in. And I always suggest replacing them in pairs just to help keep the pressure even on the rotors up front. PM me if you need any other or more detailed info.

Usually a pull caused by the brakes will be on the front axle. Often the pull is caused by the opposite side than the pull is (the brakes on one side don't work, the other side does, the side working creates more drag and pulls to that side). The problem is most likely a frozen caliper or damaged rubber brake line. But there is an outside chance that it's caused by the master cylinder or proportioning valve. Hope that helps. (ASE certified brake tech for 5 years)

Well that answers that question. I'm heading there now.... :typing:

:agree: I used to do suspension work for a living. Show me what you're talking about and I might be able to help. Also good to see I'm not the only Kentuckian here! :thumbsup:

Got a link to that write up? I have found one to purchase as a replacement but if I can rebuild the current one and let it find a new home, I will.

Join the club. I just posted up a WTB over in the classified section myself. I'm also going to head over to the JY. If I manage to find 2 I'll grab em both though.

Dammit. Well everyone, there's a view that's easy to get of a BA...

Mine is trashed. Missing the cables, springs, release handle. I need the whole thing. I've already got the new rear pair of cables ordered but need the front one. PM me or reply if you can help out. Cheers.

So. I think this is an AX-15. Am I right?

I have a set if you're still looking. PM me.

:agree: Or if you have an air impact gun you can do it in a few seconds each. But like he said be sure to use several fender washers to absorb the compression on the hub side.

I'll be doing this next weekend!

I totally clicked the wrong forum for this. Sorry. Moderator, please move to the proper forum. Thanks.

I might pick up a set of these to help my MJ keep her cool... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Hood-Louvered-Bolt-on-Cooling-panel-Jeep-4X4-Off-Road-7-Straight-louver-/280958861344?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416a740020&vxp=mtr

I think there should be a page for MJs for sale and another for parts.

And then just sink screws into the panel itself to secure it I guess? I may do that. I was at the yj today and saw an 86 with the factory speaker covers in the b pillar. I wonder if that owner did a mod or that's just the way they were that year.