terrawombat

Gotcha. This guy? http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=APR1000 The MJ tank has quite a bit more depth than the XJ tank so I'm not sure how the fuel level sensor will operate. My guess is that it would read empty when you've still got quite a bit of gas at the bottom of the tank.

If you're going to keep the MJ fuel tank/pump you're going to need to put some kind of regulator on and run a return line to the tank. The regulator on the newer XJs without the return line are contained within the fuel pump assembly. Personally, when I get to this point of my 99XJ conversion my my 88MJ, I will be making a custom mount setup under the bed for the XJ tank. I believe shelbyluvv did it on his 97+ conversion. I also want my fuel gauge and low fuel light to work properly as well, hence my reasoning for just sticking with the XJ fuel pump assembly.

Agreed. My '01XJ hit about 100MPH when I was driving through PA. I was the third vehicle of a 5 car group that were all traveling at this speed. I eventually had to back off since my RPMs were through the roof and the fuel gauge was a droppin' quick! I think I may have hit 85 in my MJ on the way back from Ohio when I picked it up...that's enough for me in that truck. Need the steering stabilizer and all control arm bushings replaced - it didn't feel too stable heh

Ahhh...the bi-weekly Alpine Crawler notice :D

Sorry - missed this post. They are 30x9.5. Stock size for this style rim.

Buried deep down inside of that fuel pump "module" is exactly what you said - a cleverly concealed fuel pump unit. Many of the modified ZJ owners pay less than half the Auto Zone cost for an upgraded Walbro 255LPH unit (around $120) or a Denso/Kyosan 300LPH unit ($150). You probably don't need the extra flow capacity so I would recommend yanking the "module" out of a JY ZJ and stealing the fuel pump. Auto Zone wants $310 for all of this: You just need the "guts":

Interior fuse panel from my '92: Underhood fuse panel from my '92:

99XJ heater box in. Only needed to drill one new 1/2" hole by the blower motor. I cut this original support off because I thought I'd need the clearance, but it looks like I could have left it. There is also already a hole in the heater box that would allow me to bolt it right up. If the dash fits with this piece still intact, I might weld it back on. Next up is the floor repair. I'm going to remove the top of the frame rails and rust-proof the insides. I've begun cutting the spot welds, but I got a lot more to go!

Yes sir! Picked up a complete drivetrain out of a 98ZJ 5.9L Limited (minus the transfer case). Even got the wiring harnesses and Jeep 5.9L-specific PCM with its aggressive factory tune. Also happened to have a 88MJ shell sitting in the back of my shop collecting dust. Also have a near-complete 99XJ in the back of my shop. All three vehicles will be molded together to form one sweet MJ :D

Been dealing with Spence from JeepStickers.com and he's been great! Extremely responsive and got me a proof of a custom sticker for my latest MJ build! Prices are reasonable, too!

Any updates on the floor repair? I started drilling out the spot welds on the upper frame support on the drivers side last night. I can't see where half the spot welds are located because the rust has pitted the metal so badly. Your truck is WAY worse than mine so I can't even begin to imagine how you were able to find them all LOL.

I've actually got a spare 46RE case in my shop that came out of my 5.9L ZJ and it's partially torn down so I can always look at that for reference. Tapping the pan wouldn't be a bad idea, but I wonder if the return being submerged in fluid would have any ill effects. Thanks for the info on the test ports. That wouldn't be a good place to put a return line LOL. No drain plug in the 46RE pan, although I should probably add one while I've got the access to it...

Take a look at the first picture (the one with my hand in it). There is a threaded plug above the hole. I need to do some research and see what it is and where it goes, but I may be able to plug the original and use that one for my return drain. It's on my list of options, anyway...

What kind of options does it have? Classic means it comes with adjustable headrests, body-colored fender flares and bumper endcaps (front and rear) and the "upgraded" seat material. Does it have fogs, heated seats, cruise, NP242, or anything else? Just curious... Too bad you don't have the space. Being a XJ and MJ owner, it's like having the best of both worlds...

I was just thinking. Technically speaking, the second sentence, "...all dedicated and devoted to the love and passion that goes with the last Jeep pickup produced to date..." isn't accurate if we consider the J8. It's a pickup, it's a Jeep, and it was produced on some scale even if it was for military use and was exported. Perhaps the first sentence should read the last consumer Jeep pickup produced? If the letter has already been sent, then, oh well :D

While your statement is technically correct, the Jeep Gladiator pickup truck concept was introduced in 2005.

The most impressive thing thing to me is that his Renix cooling system still works!

Paragraph 5: "There are many facts and figured..." Word auto-correct? Change to 'figures'.

Thanks for the hint! As soon as I get the passenger side engine mount securely bolted in, I will be CNC'ing the drop brackets for 2" of drop. Does your hood clear the stock air hat with only 1-1/2" of drop? I measured closer to 2" for the air hat clearance. Guess I won't be putting any throttle body spacers on this thing!

Whole new trans over a trans return line? Yikes. It's in such an awkward spot that I'm not sure someone who could weld aluminum would be able to get a full weld all the way around. I think I'll try the JB weld approach first. If that doesn't work, I may just JB weld this hole shut and use one of the many other capped off holes on the trans housing as the return. Problem is all of those holes are in awkward spots and are smaller than the original hole...

Anyone have any pointers on how to fix this break? This is around the fitting for the return line on the trans cooler lines. From a 46RE transmission on a '98ZJ. Threads are boogered so even if I epoxied it back on, I don't think I could get a good seal. Any thoughts?

For any potential buyers: Richard at HiPoTek is a fantastic seller. I bought a set of aluminum billet fuel rails from him for my 5.9L ZJ build and I asked to have them modified for a custom design I wanted and he did it for a mere 10 additional bucks. He shipped the parts promptly and even realized that he forgot to include some bracketry in the original package and shipped those out ASAP. Great seller to deal with and I would definitely do business with him again.

Milestone #1: First test fit of drivetrain.

Is that a Transformer?

Back when I obtained a motorcycle with no title, I researched my options. I remember there being a place in Las Vegas where you basically sent them the VIN, $150 and they sent you back a title. Don't know how - didn't really care. I'll see if I can find them or if they're even still in business :rotf: