terrawombat

It's technically called the transmission oil pan. I don't know the torque specs on the bolts for the '86, but they're not supposed to be gorilla-tight. I just recently replaced the filter on my '01 AW4 transmission and the service manual called for 53-70 INCH-pounds, so between about 4-6 FOOT-pounds, which is practically nothing. The gaskets are made of cork so if you tighten down too much, you'll mess the gasket up. I would take a 1/4" ratchet and just snug them down and see if the leak stops.

This was the ONLY method that worked for me to get a very stubborn RMS out.

most likely nothing has been damaged by this. there could be other components worn out from old age/use/abuse, but a failing u-joint will not harm anything unless it actually breaks in which case often-times the axleshaft does not survive Thanks - good to know. I bought a pair of spare U-Joints for this thing a loooong time ago, but never got around to putting them on. Crossing my fingers that's all I need since the the dollar is tight on my '89 Pioneer build ;)

I need to do the same repair on my '89 Pioneer. My front right u-joint is so badly worn I can take the axle shaft and wiggle is around a good 1/4". Although, I'm not sure what else has been damaged because of this. I'm assuming there is some sort of seal in the front axle that is toast due to the axle shaft bouncing around. Maybe even a bearing? Been looking for an exploded view of the D30 to figure it all out.

False. 89 was a transition year. The transmission was changed in the middle of the model year. Early 89s had a BA 10/5, Later ones had an AX-15. 89 could come with either from the factory. Good catch. I always think it was mid-1990 that was changed. But now that you mention it, there's an '89 MJ with a 5-speed for sale by me that I've been shying away from because 1) Too much money and 2) I assumed it had the BA-10/5. I may have to take another look at it.

You sure about the blowout? They specifically say that none of the tires were punctured. http://www.kmbc.com/slideshow/news/22792496/detail.html

False. Unless someone swapped in an AX-15, you have the BA-10/5 Peugeot in your truck. Everyone will tell you it sucks and for the most part, they're right. Like you said, if it's an auto, it will be the AW4, unless it's an '86, then it got something different.

How do those pans address the large hump that runs from the front of the truck to the rear? Those don't look like they are formed to sit over top of it. Edit: It looks to me like you need to remove the large center brace and the smaller brace that connects to it, weld in the replacement floor, and then replace those braces. Whew...that would be a days work!

Regular spray-on truck bedliner tends to trap moisture, from what I've heard, and should only be used as a topcoat to protect the rust preventative coat that goes on underneath of it. POR-15 is good stuff, but very pricey and the only place I know where to find it is at http://www.por15.com/. I've used POR-15 on a number of different projects and the stuff is amazing. Dries ROCK hard and covers very well. It will quickly fade in the sunlight if you don't use a topcoat on it, though. I just picked up some Valspar Tractor & Implement paint from my local Tractor Supply Co. store. I've heard nothing but positive results with the stuff and the price is right at $29.99 per gallon. Compare that to the cost of POR-15 at $143.00 per gallon!

I had a couple hours to work on the truck tonight so I decided to tackle the floorpan rust/rot so I can get the interior back together. The drivers side seems to be in pretty decent shape with the exception of a few pinholes, which I'm still not quite sure how I want to patch. They don't necessarily need a whole new patch panel welded in, but I don't know how well something like JB Weld would hold up. The passenger side was a little easier since there was a significant amount of rot, so I just cut out two sections and was able to get one section welded in with a new patch plate. I used some leftover 14 gauge sheet metal I had lying around from another job. It's definitely overkill and wasn't very fun to "mold" into place, but my BFH helped me out some. I'll be doing the other patch panel sometime next week and then I will seam seal it and paint it with Valspar Tractor & Implement paint for rust protection. On the underside of the truck, I may do a quick shot of a rubberized undercoating to match what is already under there. Rotted panels cut out: New steel patch panel welded in place:

I have a '97 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2x4 that I bought brand new in '98. While I'm not trying to crap all over the thread, I will say that this ATV has been a somewhat of a huge letdown. I bought it to replace a '89 Honda TRX300 that my cousin smashed into a tree and I honestly believe that if he didn't crash that thing, it would still be running today. I went with the Big Bear because of the slightly larger motor and the low-range drive in the transmission. I pull a lot of stuff with the thing and I will say that the low-range has been GREAT. So about 500 miles into ownership and following the break-in procedure to the 'T', the engine started getting very, very warm - so warm that you couldn't even put your leg near it because it would burn you. Soon after, the engine developed a steady knocking sound, so we took it back to the dealer and said WTF. Apparently the oil pump just quit working and was only putting out a couple PSI. Knowing the consequences of running an engine without oil, I demanded a BRAND NEW engine. I didn't get it. I'm not even sure what they did, but it did seem to be running much better after that. So, another thousand miles or so and the front bumper welds failed and the thing just fell off. I see you've got a much heftier front bumper than I did, so you likely won't run into this issue. The thing goes another thousand miles and the engine is progressively getting louder - the muffler had basically disintegrated and was nothing more than a hollow pipe. The thing does still run and it has it's place on our farm, but it pales in comparison to the four Honda ATV's we have had and currently own ('89 TRX300, '99 TRX300, '01 TRX350 Rancher, '02 TRX350 Rancher). The Big Bear isn't as peppy, rides A LOT rougher, and the handling is...just...off. It's one saving grace is that low-range selector. With the Honda's, we'll just spin the rear tires trying to pull empty hay and grain wagons, but the Big Bear in low-range will just motor right along without a hiccup. I will say that my Big Bear experience has turned me off to any future Yamaha ATV purchases. Best of luck with yours!

I swapped the two flasher relays on my fuse block and everything seems to be working! Thanks guys! I'll pick up a couple spares just in case.

Thanks Pete! I just took a look at a fuse block diagram for the '88 XJ and I see where it's at. I'll try swapping it out with a couple spares I have lying around. Thanks again!

Thanks fellas - I'll take a look at this after work! I was under the impression that the flasher relay was the big, yellow circular one. Are you telling me there are TWO of these on my fuse panel? I only recall seeing one...

From his build thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=21824 Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My turn signals on my '88 pioneer no longer function properly. I'm not even sure when the last time it wad that they worked. The right blinker does work but blinks really slowly. The left blinker just remains on and never blinks. The hazards function as they should. I've read a couple threads and this seems to be a common problem so I took some advice from them and here is what I've done: new ford bulb sockets on both front turn signals replaced flasher relay box cleaned ground connection on inner drivers fender still am not getting anything close to functioning signals. Any more tips?

What you REALLY need to check out is There, I fixed it http://thereifixedit.com/ The site where Jerry-riggers unite!

I wish. He sold it to my cousin when he went to college in Colorado. My cousin had it for quite a while out there, but always complained of little things that kept going wrong with it. He eventually traded it in for an '06 Grand Cherokee before he drove back home to NJ. Also, I still wish we had the '86 MJ. That was in my possession for a few years, but it just sat in the front of my shop because the turdy 2.8L lost oil pressure and threw just about every bearing in the engine. We eventually just gave it away to my Dad's friend and I have no idea what he's done with it. The body on that thing was pristine - it was professionally repainted sometime in the mid 90's and there wasn't a spec of rust on it anywhere.

I had to look for the second build :brows: . The other one is coming along nicely. :cheers: Thanks. The other build is going well in the sense that I've finally found the right donor for it and now it's just a matter of swapping the parts over! Unfortunately, the build in this thread will slow down the build of the other and vice versa!

Yes, I am quite pleased with the condition of the floor. A lot better than my other '88 MJ project I have going on simultaneously.

E-town, eh? Not too far from me...I wouldn't mind taking a drive up there to get some pics. Funny thing is, I've been there probably about half a dozen times, but never noticed or saw that MJ. Edit: Here's another picture I quickly found on the Englishtown Racetrack webpage photo album. It's a hi-res picture so if you zoom in on it, you can get a pretty good look at the MJ in the background. http://216.109.136.172/gallery/Handler.ashx?PhotoID=427

oooooooooo ahhhhhhhhhh

Link doesn't work - even after I put my Windows Live ID and Password in. Try hosting them on a image uploading site like Photobucket or Imageshack. I prefer photobucket.

The drivers door hinge pulled away slightly and the drivers door striker broke so there was a good 1/8" to 1/4" gap at the top where it was supposed to seal against the weather striping. I don't think the floor of this truck has been dry since the late 90's. As I pulled the carpet up, I was expecting the worst, but what I actually found...I am really quite pleased. Impressed might be a better word. I guess the guys in the paint booth on the Jeep assembly line were feeling good the day they sprayed mine as they must have used a liberal amount of paint to keep the metal in good condition. Or maybe it's that special Olympic edition paint :rotf: Going to hit it with a wire wheel, probably CNC some sheet metal to give the floor some extra thickness, tack those in, seam seal it, and paint it. Also need to repair the drivers rear seat stud.

Cool! I had no idea that's what it was for. I don't ever remember there being any sort of emblem to distinguish that it was an Olympic Edition MJ and it really wouldn't surprise me if my Grandfather had it removed. Would it just have been the olympic rings on the fender under the 'Pioneer' symbol? Edit: Nevermind, I'm an idiot. Can't believe I never noticed this.