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Zebvance: Yeah, that's what I've been reading, but it's at stock height with a stock trackbar. My Jeep is an 01, and the axle came out of an 05....I don't think there were any changes made (or from 84-05 for that matter!).

Full disclosure: This is for my 01 TJ, but I've found that this group is the most knowledgeable/helpful, by far (and a d30 is a d30). Now that folks are fully buttered up, I replaced both axles on my TJ, in regearing after swapping in a manual trans. I kept the front control arms attached to the frame, and connected the new axle to those first, then proceeded to tighten everything up, passenger side first. When it came time to button up the driver's side sway bar link, it was about 2-3 inches away from the mounting point on the axle. Lined up, but a 2-3 inch reach. Figuring I had done things in an improper order, or expecting that alignment (?) was going to be way out I finagled it together, by raising/lowering, loosening stuff, etc. Well, when I got it on the road, the sway bar shifted itself towards the passenger side, with the upper part of my link digging into the driver's side frame rail, even after having a 4-wheel alignment done. I was able to slide the bar over, and re-tighten the sway bar frame mounts, and it's more or less centered, but when I make a right turn, I'm getting a clunking sound out of the right front end, which I'm sure is the sway bar/link, somehow. Everything else is tight and good; I even replaced the unit bearings and axle shaft u-joints. Did I make a mistake in installation? Is the d30 bent? I hope it's not the latter, it looked true, both axle shafts looked good, and there are no leaks. I'm a little stumped, hoping it will be something simple. Any input would be appreciated! Tom

I think they're the same, but not sure. Why replace what you have? They don't go bad. If you want to freshen the assembly up, you could paint it and put new pads on it.

FWIW I had PS fluid in there when the problems began. I don't mind changing back, I don't think it's going to fix my problem.

OK another update. I really need some help on this. The shop had my MJ for two weeks, and didn't even call me after swapping out the box and realizing that it WASN'T the problem Glad I asked them to keep my old box. So I replaced every last hose and O-ring with brand new Gates stuff. Bled it for a long time with the engine off, ran the engine, topped it off, and did some lock-to-locks with the engine running. It is STILL weeping fluid out the reservoir vent. And the new pump is making noise, probably because the shop was running it in this condition, trying to figure this out. I spoke with another tech, and he said "it has to be getting air in somewhere," and specified on the low pressure side, which led me to change out the hoses and O-rings. There are no visible leaks in the system. The only thing I haven't changed is the reservoir lid (replaced it with the reservoir 5-6 years ago). I pulled the lid off the reservoir while is was running, and fluid flowed out all over, it was really churning in there. It's not super-foamy, but that's because there is ATF +4 in there. Before I drag this to another shop, does anyone have any ideas? Thanks-- Tom

Converting over...preferably with all bolts and grommets. Thanks Tom

An update: Welp, I brought it to a shop. Wife had a baby, and I just didn't have any more time to spend on it. They checked the system, and it turns out it was the steering gear. I replaced it with a used ZJ unit about 5 years ago, but it's not flowing, causing a pressure buildup in the reservoir, and the leakage. I've never had that happen, and I have some old vehicles. Guessing can cost you: I bought a new PS reservoir and pump before letting the pros check it out. My next step was the hoses, so I guess I saved a couple of bucks there. Anyone got good used ZJ unit lying around? Maybe I'll go reman this time. I liked the ZJ box because it went lock to lock in 2.5 turns, it was nice. Anyone using anything different?

I am going to be patient and try to burp it a little more, but thanks for that information on the valve. The funny thing is, it didn't actually "blow" a line, it was leaking where the line is clamped onto the reservoir. Just to be sure, I replaced the reservoir and the hose/clamps, but the old stuff *looked* OK.

Thanks for the responses. No, it was the hose from the steering gear to the reservoir that leaked. And it's churning up the fluid pretty good too. Over the last day or two, I have been running it, turning the wheel once or twice, shutting it down, and re-checking. Don, are you suggesting I remove and inspect the flow piston/spring? thanks Tom

Hate PS fluid...what a mess Anyway, I took at 125 mile round trip ride in my 87 MJ (2.5/Ax-5) last Saturday, and as soon as I got home, the steering got noisy as I pulled into the driveway, and there was PS fluid coming out of the reservoir cap, and dripping down all over the place. EDITED Thanks in advance for any good advice. Tom

where is this boneyard?

PM'ed...I have some extra "hockey stick" type.

Hi guys, Wearing out my welcome with questions here! I replaced my head gasket, and now I have no leaking. I went through all the wiring connections and vacuum lines, and everything is buttoned up tight. I was missing one of the intake manifold bolts, so it explains some of the running issues before hand. Now that everything seems correct under the hood, one issue remains from before: it has an idle that bounces from about 900-1100, cold or warmed up. Once in awhile, the computer will kick the IAC and bump the idle up to 12-1300, presumably BECAUSE of the rough idle. It also feels a little flat on acceleration since doing the work (but that could be that I haven't driven it in a month and drive my 4.0 TJ every day!). Any thoughts on what could cause idle like this? When I did the job, I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Thanks-- Tom

Thanks!

Just got my new MT leaf springs from Hell Creek, going to button them up in the next couple of days. I've swapped the rear on this truck, and put it together the way I found it, which I assume was stock, but who knows? Anyway, there's a part between the spring plate and axle that the U bolts go through, and a friend of mine who was in the yard saw it and said "don't use that, it's LOWERING your rear." I think it's a stock piece and should be there. Can anyone confirm or deny? In the pic, it is the thing sitting on top of the brake drum Thanks-- Tom

Just ordered mine a few weeks ago. Had stock leafs with an add-a-leaf, ordered the Metric Ton leafs, hoping for about 2-3" of lift, along with an improved ride. Is there much difference between the 3" lift and the MT springs? I will report back on mine when they get in. Tom

Cruiser, have you had a chance to send it? T_lardner at yahoo dot com is my email. I saw the schematic that you have in your "technical photos" section; I don't have a PCV valve on my truck, never did. Has anyone re-done all the underhood vacuum lines/connections on a 2.5?

Doesn't have a rail but he can borrow a pressure gauge from autozone and remove the plug from the driver's side of the throttle body and test that way. Like someone said above - unhook your fuel supply line from the back of the TB (using a line wrench) and connect a length of hose to it, into a bucket. See if fuel is pouring out. A new fuel pump doesn't always mean a good fuel pump. And some people's idea of "new" is older than you think.

Thanks, PM sent!

OK, in my previous thread, I got a lot of good help in clearing up cylinder head torque questions. When I pulled the head, spark plug #1 was pretty whitish. The other three looked fairly OK. Not sure why #1 would be burning lean and not the others. I've noticed that the idle has been high the past couple of months, and it runs rough on start up. I'm sure there has been at least a small vacuum leak for years, because under heavy accel, the HVAC would go to defrost. It didn't affect the running of the car, so I never messed with it. In the time it's been running poorly, when I turn the truck off (even if I wasn't using the HVAC), there is a "hisssss...clunk" from under the dash, I believe the vent door opening or closing. This is a newer symptom. However, now it's not running right, and the plugs are off, so I'm going to dig in. The vacuum diagram in Chiltons and the FSM are really oversimplified, so it's not helpful for getting all the connections right. I have an aftermarket open air cleaner under the hood, so the line to the air filter box is plugged. I do run the EGR; I've plugged the vacuum line for the heater control valve, since mine hasn't had one since I've owned it. Other than that, the leak could be anywhere. Do I need to check under the dash? The 4WD system (it works fine)? Should I buy a new vacuum reservoir? I guess what would help the most is someone with a 2.5 who's gone through the whole thing and knows every vacuum connection under the hood. It's just a mess, and I need to get it done correctly, especially since everything is apart with the head off. Thanks in advance! Tom

Ok, got the head back from the shop. They did a light milling on it, and said it was good. It cost money, but I wasn't putting the head back on without verification. New bolts on the way from headbolts.com, new Felpro gasket ready to go, I have to get the pipe sealant and put it on this weekend. Here's hoping....now onto the next question thread -- vacuum leaks.

Ok Just about to take the head to the shop and it looks like its a casting (d12) 408, used from 87-90. Are we sure the torque value change splits from 87-88? Thanks Tom

Thanks. Gonna go to the shop and make sure the head is OK. Once I find out what year I have, will go from there.

Studs are just as accurate as dowels. The interface of the head to the block, horizontally, is not critical to the thousandth of an inch. You just want to cylinders to line up under the valves and the water and oil passages to line up well enough to allow passage of coolant and oil. Also, pay attention to torque. The bolt with the pipe sealant gets a lower torque than the others. Also, be aware that the torque values for the 1984 thru 1987 engines were different from 1988 and newer. How much lower torque on the sealed bolt? My Comanche is a 1987, but the block came from a YJ from the same era, not sure of the year (87-90). Should I be able to tell the year of the cylinder head from the stamping? I thought I saw an 88 on there, but I'm not sure if it's that simple. Thanks again Tom

Thanks, Eagle. The right rear was leaking, but I was following the FSM as to what bolt to coat in sealant. I can't remember what kind I used. I will be sure to use what they call for, or an equivalent. Appreciate it!