mjtjnj

Sorry, it's an 87 2.5/AX-5. It doesn't smell like ATF, which is what the transfer case is filled with.

Thanks for the reply. Breather ought to be easy enough to check, I'll make sure the hose didn't slip off. I would assume that if it's the input or output shaft leaking, it would leak the trans fluid, and not the ATF from the transfer case?

:fs1: Dammit. Replaced my noisy, 21 spline np231 transfer case with a quiet(er) 21 spline NP231. The crossmember was all wet after a little driving, so I checked the O ring on the speedometer gear housing and it was ok. Replaced the fill and drain bolts and gaskets (everything was wet, so no idea where it was coming from). There seemed to be too much fluid in the transfer case -- I filled it on the incline -- so I parked it level and let it drain to the bottom of the fill hole. Take her for a good drive, and come back and it's dripping again. The linkage is even wet, so it's coming from up higher. I parked it for the day, I'm done, but any ideas? The mated transmission-transfer case surface is machined, so no RTV or gasket needed, at least I've never used one. Should I tighten up the nuts holding the case to the tranny? Maybe I didn't get them equally tight all around. I *GUESS* the used case I got could have a crack, I didn't go over it with a fine-toothed comb. Just looking for some ideas before I have a trans guy I know put it up on the lift. Thanks Tom

Mountain - no, all the other noise would really cloud the noise I'm talking about cruiser - yeah, I guess they're the same, huh? Pete - how long has that O-ring held up? Would seem it would get crushed pretty quick. And 2wd on the highway, 4wd hi sounds the same...TC in neutral stops it....but that's only good until inertia catches up. ;)

couple of things: I keep leaking from my oil pan drain plug. I have bought the oil-tite bolt and fiber gasket from Pep Boys, and on the box it says "replace gasket every time you change the oil." I haven't, but they seem to start leaking pretty quick; seems kinda crazy to keep replacing the gasket, especially since I haven't seen the gaskets for sale in bulk. Anyone have a favorite oil pan plug gasket? While we're on the topic of gaskets, installed a replacement NP231 out of a YJ. The bolts on that had bad gaskets and I was able to locate an M22-1.5" bolt (that I actually have a wrench for), and put it in the fill hole. I was going to put the same bolt in the drain hole, but there's a baffle in there, and I didn't want the bolt to run up against it. Does it matter? Should I find a shorter M22 bolt? While on the subject of transfer cases, my last musing. Since I bought my MJ 9 years ago, I've rebuilt the motor and replaced the ax-5 with a low-mileage 2000 ax-5. Since I've had it, carpet or not, the transfer case has always made a sound like there were marbles ratting around in there. I figured this out because the noise persisted when I was on the highway and took the truck out of gear, but would stop when I put the TC into neutral. When I had the drivetrain out, I had a tranny guy look at it, for a rebuild, and he said I was crazy, everything was fine, put some carpet in the truck, maybe change over to gear oil, and it would quiet down. I do trust him, despite his gear oil recommendation. So I found a lower mileage np231 for cheap, popped it in, filled it with synthetic tranny fluid, and the same noise is there, not as loud, and not as "surging" when I let off the gas pedal at highway speeds. Yeah, I have no carpet or jute padding right now, but I've owned YJ's with 1/4" thick carpet and never noticed this sound before. It sounds like chain noise, but I don't know. Any ideas? Thanks for humoring me at 1am! :ack: Tom

Yeah, love them. In this case, no dice. :fs1:

Thanks, Fiatslug. I also saw the FSM recommendation regarding new cylinder head bolts. Where would one buy a set of them? Thanks-- Tom

Hey guys, I pulled my head because my rebuilder messed up installing the valve stem seals. I took the head off, then replaced it, but it was one of those heads (which I had never seen on Chevy's) that didn't have alignment pins. I used some studs, which I later learned are not precise enough to align it. And it leaks antifreeze. It's getting worse, and I have some time, so I'm going to pull the head again. Two things: 1. Can I get alignment pins?? 2. Can someone post the FSM pages (or link to) for the manifold and cylinder head torque sequences? I had a guy in my garage buying some parts a few months back, and he made off with my FSM. :fs1: Thanks-- Tom

Hey guys, A little stuck here, maybe someone could help me out? Got the seal out and reinstalled, no problem. I torqued down the bearing cap bolts, and couldn't get the axle shafts to slide in. Over torqued them a little, and the drivers side went in. Still can't get the intermediate passenger shaft to go in, despite over torquing and tapping. Should I just keep tightening and tapping or is something wrong here? Thanks...bout ready to pack it in for the night and hate leaving it this way...again! :-/

Thanks...I'll see what he says...

I'm going to edit this to ask: Does anyone with the FSM handy know the OEM Chrysler # for the axle seal installer tool? I have a friend in the biz who might be able to get me one. Thanks! Tom

Thank you. I figured that from reading some other boards, but I had already cleaned up and put everything away. Anyone got a pic?

Hey guys, ferkocked the drivers side axle seal in my haste to get on a new unit bearing. Two questions: Carrier is sticking from passenger side. Removed outer shaft, slid coupling ring off, can't get inner passenger shaft to slide out any...wth? Also, when I get the carrier off, is it necessary to install the new seal with all those extensions from the passenger side, or is there another means of getting it in through the pumpkin? Thanks a ton...grrrr Tom

I did get the greasable spicers, had the parts place put them in. Last year, I had the shaft shortened and balanced, and left the old joints in there, which weren't really that old. Reinstalled the shaft with the new joints and new straps, and still have driveline vibe. Thinking of taking it back to be sure its balanced. I didn't twist or bent it with abuse, so I'm a little confused. Top it all off, I swapped out the left from hub-bearing unit, and realized on reassembly that the d30 driver side axle seal is now leaking. F*@%.

A couple of years ago, I put an AMC20 in my truck, had the driveshaft shortnened and balanced, had the U joints done while it was in there, guy put in greasables, and I'll admit I didn't grease them much. Recently towed a couple of cars on dollys (one MJ) and have a vibe. Thinking of going back to sealed U joints, they seem to last OK. What kind does everyone recommend, for the prop shaft, and the D30 axle shafts? I was gonna go on a rant about the poor quality of pacific rim replacement parts, but I'll take the hit for not greasing them. Thanks-- Tom

I use a little gasket adhesive to clue the RUBBER gasket to the valve cover, then bolt it down without any RTV. Works great :cheers:

Hey Brent, That looks pretty good. Is it maroon? I'm sure the picture doesn't show very well. With a little mink oil, she'd clean up nice. What year is it from? There's the 84-86 red/maroon, then the 87+ maroon/maroon ("Cordovan"). Just wanna make sure. Wanna trade for a grant GT wheel? :brows: Tom

Hey Don, 96 I believe. Thanks for the suggestion, I took your advice. Better responsiveness and much tighter than my old 200K mile box was.

Thanks for the reassurance, Glenn. It always sounds louder when you're afraid you grenaded something! I'll sleep on it.

Couple of months back I replaced the steering box with one from a ZJ. Cleaned everything out, bled it right before starting, no problems, worked great. Well, I'm out of town for work, no tools, no space. Suddenly today, I'm 2 blocks from home and I start getting whine from the PS system. I get the two blocks home, now it's loud. Turn if off and realize I've leaked most of my fluid out, the high pressure line fitting to the pump loosened up. Well, I tightened it up again, filled it with fluid, tried to turn the wheels best I could with them on the ground and the engine not running. Seemed ok, but I'm hearing a little noise, and the fluid is milky. Steers smooth on the road, but maneuvering into and out of the parking spot it's a little louder than I remember it being. Should I get my hands on a bottle jack and get the front end up and really go through the air bleeding process again? Once I got it driving again, I did do some lock to lock turns with the engine running and the cap off, while I topped it off. Not sure that suffices for adequate bleeding. Could I have done some real damage to the box in such a short period of time?? Dammit. :wall: Thanks-- Tom

1. maroon dash. The whole thing, top pad and lower trim. Wanted in good shape, no cracks, I've already got cracked pieces. 2. brake pressure sensor switch. This goes inline on the high pressure lines, and feeds back to control idle. Mine no worky anymore 3. maroon leather wheel, if anyone's got one in good condition, maybe even the hunter's plaid maroon door panels

Good stuff, thanks. What did pacifier make his out of. Looks good. I like the idea of black diamond plate, though, too

wanted to dredge this old topic back up. anyone know of a source for aftermarket, and if not what's the closest model for a fit?

Yeah, you're right, I should just let it slide when some douche hijacks a tech thread -- not once, but twice. Everyone else who replied seemed to understand what I was getting at, but no one else acted like, or continues to act like, a fool. I didn't have to hunt very far to find your flipped xj and ghetto work space, but you mentioned how much money you make, despite being illiterate. You could have let it slide when I shot back, but you want the last word, and I'm supposed to be impressed by a Jetta? Lol! Maybe I was wrong about the winch, but I have two emails from you saying you wanted tto buy it, and it went to Seatac, so who knows? My junk parts; with your money, I'm sure you'll buy nos. So, given that, I sound like a teenage girl? I'm gonna guess that anyone else reading this can see who the b*@$£ is. Whats next, you have more friends than me? This is the place to ask questions, dumb or not. I've seen plenty, answered some, and seen all of them handled without the posters trying to make the questioner look like a fool.

Some of the 2.5 came with the AW-4 behind them, which is a great tranny. Those trucks had the 4.56 gearing, too. Search car-part.com I think for 87-89 2.5 Cherokees and Comanches and see what comes up.