mjtjnj

No, I'm not joking. There is a lot of resistance to flow based on the length of pipe and all the turns. It's not as simple as calculating the area. I know it's not a dual exhaust, it's dual outlet. I will speak with the exhaust guy tomorrow. I'm definitely going a one-in-two-out muffler. If I have a stock 2.25" system, which I believe WAS stock from the factory, even on 4cyl, you would keep it 2.25" and just go dual outlets? I appreciate your advice and certainly your bad experience with a cat-back system, you don't have to be sanctimonious about it.

I appreciate all the input; the stock exhaust is 2"? I thought it was 2.25". Anyways, I don't' see as much drop in backpressure as you guys. This is a very long system, running through a cat and muffler (1 in 2 out). I like the look of the straight-out dual exhaust, and going to 2.5" after the cat shouldn't make that much difference. The motor is a freshly-rebuilt, bored-over 2.5 with roller rockers and a Clifford header. I haven't picked up the muffler to deliver it to the exhaust guy, so he hasn't done any work yet. I'll have a chat with him when I bring him the muffler. Thanks! Tom

Definitely not a civic fart pipe! Since it's going to be dual (and it's a 4 cylinder), a nice rumble, but not "open header" sounding. Looking at the Magnaflow stainless line..they have a lifetime warantee and the prices are reasonable.

Hey guys, rotted out more pipes and I'm going stainless. Took the truck into a muffler shop and going duals straight out, 2 1/2" from the cat back. Any recommendations on a stainless muffler for this project, from anyone who has done it? Thanks Tom

I can help with this one. Pulling the shaft again to mess with the fuel pump sender/gasket. :fs1:

subject says it all. Going to replace the plastic ones with something a little more substantial.

def. M8 or M10, I forgot which..

I think I have some 2057's in there too. Maybe that's the problem! I know my backup lights are the 1156s. Worst case scenario, I have my old harness from the truck that I could use. I'd just have to cut off that grommet that goes through the apron -- I told you about that. Could using 2057's screw things up? Hmmm...

OK, did a little playing around. Checked the front sockets, all good. Checked the rear ground, really stripped it down to the bare metal. Still, the right blinker freezes when the parking or headlights are on. Weirder still, when the car is off and I hit the brake pedal, the parking lights, dash lights, and taillights come on! Weird The most useful thing I did was unplug the rear harness pigtail, right behind the L taillight. Then I tried the blinkers with the lights on and off, and the blinkers worked fine, no dash problems, nothing weird. So the short is in the rear harness somewhere. Can the rear sockets themselves short out? What should I do? Inspect every square inch of wire? Clean all the sockets? At least I'm getting somewhere! thanks Tom

You could. You might be surprised that the bolts/studs aren't that bad. I knew mine was going to scrap, so I just put an impact wrench on them and broke some, others came off. No wd40, no nothin! Only 2 broke, the others came out. My 87 had bolts, the 86 replacement bed used studs, and the boneyard only lost one stud.

haha yeah, fluid's low. I'll clean up that ground a little bit, and check the front socket. My truck is an 87, but the bed and harness are from an 86. Truck was sitting for 2-3 months while I swapped the bed and gas tank, so maybe the socket got corroded up front. I've seen that one before!

I know this has been gone over a billion times here, let me add my weird example to the database. I just had the bed off, got a clean bed of an 86 that had all the taillight wires, including the large harness connector at the back of the truck, then the wires were cut. I spliced this harness up to my existing wiring. I grounded it to the screw behind the L taillight. I believe it to be a good ground. Left blinker works fine. Right blinker does not - the right green arrow just stays on when I push the stalk, and the parking/taillight lights up, but doesn't blink. Right blinker works when the head/taillights are off, but then the left blinker blinks dimly as well. When I put on the hazards, everything works! Besides the ground behind the left taillight that I'm going to clean up, any other pertinent grounds I need to check? Guess I might need to check the harness itself. And what's that yellow "goo" that always gets into the sockets? LOL

Yeah, definitely, that was extremely helpful when I did the job the FIRST time! :mad:

Yeah, no way I'm dropping the tank again. I don't see how I could have put the unit in "wrong" as far as the orientation. That part was easy. I'll just drive it for now and use up most of the tank, then back it onto ramps and get under there and pull the unit again. Anyone for tacking on the O-ring to the unit before installation?

Sorry 'bout the lingo for the under-18 readers ;) . Just swapped a rust-free bed and new gas tank in. Got it all buttoned up today, put 5gal in it and off to the gas station for a fill. After he'd put about 13-14 gals in (in NJ, no self serve :nuts: ), it starts pouring on the ground. I knew what it was right away. when I pulled the fuel pump out, the O ring was stuck pretty good to it. Rather than do the smart thing and leave it there, I install a new one, that I had lying around, believe it or not. I felt like I got it in pretty good position on the bench, but obviously not. Also, with the tank almost full, the sender is reading way over "F." Did I not get the sender in proper position? Now that this is on the truck, and a little more challenging -- should I use some tack to hold the O ring in place? Without being able to see in there very well, where do I sink the sender to make sure it's in the right place? This is annoying, since I should have done it right when it was out of the truck! :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Any pro-fessioneal advice appreciated. -Tom

That happened to me, too. I got all the other bolts out, the tank off, and lifted hard up on the bed from the other side, until the bolt broke or pulled through the bed. My bed was going to scrap anyway, so I didn't care. If you are putting the same bed back on, you might have to be more gentle! :fs1: Tom

Thanks! Saved me some time.

Yup, that's her! Let me know -- thanks!

swapped a 1986 box on my 87, they cut the wires. I kept my old harness, and there was a round hole going through the sheet metal that hangs behind the bed, anyone know the diameter? Apparently 86 used a different location! Just wanna make sure I cut the right size hole! THanks Tom

I got mine at rockauto.com, not a bad deal. Not to hijack, but I put my fuel pump in and am putting the tank back in this weekend. Is there a "wrong" way to put the pump/float apparatus in? The float goes in that pan? I just popped it in there, will the float just end up where it belongs, or did I need to take special care? :eek:

I appreciate all the advice. I am going to spray paint it while it's off. I wanted to avoid taking it to the body shop (haven't even picked one yet) dismantled, or half dismantled. The only close color I could find at all of Autozone, Pep Boys, Home Depot, and Walmart, was Krylon "Camoflage" Khaki in ultra flat. That's pretty much what I want. So I'm going to spray a couple of coats on the bed front and cab rear, best that I can, and have the body shop more or less match it up. It may not be a perfect match, but it will be better than having maroon in there! Not going the cheapo route, but I'd prefer the truck be fully assembled and running before I drive it to the shop. Thanks again! Tom

Any recommendations on rattle can brand of flat desert sand?

No, I'm not painting it! I just got a rust free long box on my 87. I put new studs in it (it was off an 86) and mounted it on top, haven't bolted anything down, waiting for all the snow to melt. I was talking to a buddy of mine, and I told him I want to paint it that flat, desert sand/military color (it's now Cordovan). He said that before I bolt the bed down, I should maybe get a rattle can and spray the back of the cab and the front of the box, since the paint shop might not be able to get in there. Does anyone here think I should? Would a body shop want to take the box off to paint in between the cab and the bed? Sounds like a stupid question, but I know nothing about paintwork. Thanks Tom :ack:

hey got a good 86 LWB box, put on my 87. Junkyard cut the harness, would like the harness back to the plug, if anyone has it. 87 up harness is different!

Yeah, that's what it looks like, Jeff. Since it was a balmy 43 degrees today and supposed to be tomorrow (warmest in weeks), I'm gonna give that a try tomorrow. I'll be happy as a pig in you-know-what if it's that easy. Rebuilder maybe didn't snug it up enough. Tom