yxmj

Hard to do in a Renix.......... Nothing is impossible.....if you want it bad enough :thumbsup: http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/t38048063/renix-xj-with-v8-zj-136amp-alternator/

If the battery is disconnected, the engine dies That one line gives you your answer.....once started your engine should run without the battery being connected..... IMHO....stick with Jeep parts....Try finding a 1997 V8 one......There were some rated at 136 amps http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/97-98-136-amp-alternator-swap-1226669/

It will be internal. I just did one, Same amount of work for a 2,5 as a 4L The only "special" tool that was not already in my box was an 18mm socket that was needed for the trans bolts. As far as the slave itself....i bought mine on ebay....$58.....it came out of California....the only advise i have is get one with a metal body not a plastic one. :thumbsup:

X2 I had the same noise (my MJ had sat for 10 years) I used an white lithium grease that came in an aerosol can with a straw ( I think from the factory it is a graphite based lube)......undid the cable..... shot as much as i could in.....put it back on and drove for a couple of days and repeated the process. I did it from the bottom....i would expect that if you took the time to pull the dash and get at the speedo from the top gravity would help you pull in even more lubricant and speed up the process. :thumbsup:

To answer the OP question, yes you can put an updated rad with cap in. I just installed a 2000 xj 4l rad in my 87 MJ.2.5 FYI if you had a 2.5 it would have come with a normal rad with a cap (looks like a CJ/YJ rad) Another cooling trick i use in all mine, is with the secondary electric fan (if you don't have one they can be picked up at any JY) I put a cab mounted switch that activates a relay under the hood, then i run the lead for the secondary to the relay. I find it gives better control over cooling when wheeling, towing, or just sitting in heavy traffic. Also if you run a secondary tranny cooler mount that in front of the electric fan to really give you control. :thumbsup:

??? I've never encountered a forum on which you can't go back and edit posts. (Although some do have a time limit, after which editing isn't allowed.) Yes

I think we all agree on that point, so how about you start? You have several corrections you can already make, then we can hash out the finer details as an ongoing project. I suggest you go to your first post, make the corrections, then let's see where we stand. :popcorn: Yes I will start cleaning it up. To be honest I did not realize that you could go back and edit posts.....other forums do not have that option

Hey guys I am the OP And by no means is any of this taken as an insult. I would think it would be great to compile as much of the facts as we can and re-write the specs correctly so they can be a quick helpful guide for all. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

:agree: :thumbsup:

Possible there are errors....i did not compile the list.....but somebody knowledgeable did. Please give me an example of a pre-92 D30 that is not vacuum disconnect? as well as you should possibly re-read the line about the 44's I believe you are correct about the pioneer being available till '92 :thumbsup: And for you and the mods and admin by all means lets get this list as up to date and accurate as possible so it can be a quick reference for newbs and greybeards at any time . :thumbsup:

After a quick look on the web i see that your truck could also have come with a borg warner T5 i posted a great article with all specs call "Comanche Specs" in this form for more info :thumbsup:

Comanche stock specs Common Design All MJs were built as a full unibody design with the body and frame rails tied/welded together as one piece and cannot be removed, however, the rear is a fully boxed frame with the bed bolted to it, making the bed removable. All MJs have solid axles front and rear. The suspension consists of coils for the front and leaf springs for the rear. All MJs came with disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear. Also, all MJ's through all years are equipped with a height sensing proportioning valve that is used to change the bias of the brakes if the bed had a load in it. For those curious to the differences in Cherokee's and Comanche's: The taillight lenses are different from a Cherokee's, the wheel flares are the same (as a 2dr Cherokee), hoods are swappable from 84-92 models Cherokee's (Cherokee's above 92 used spring-loaded hinges), and all mechanical/electronic parts forward of the firewall ARE identical. Body The body comes only in standard cab model with a rear double-top hatch tailgate. Comes in longbed or shortbeds two-tone versions. Long bed versions come with a larger gas tank than the short bed and is located front of the axle. Short bed version was not avaiable in 1986. Interior: Door panels are removable as stock. Bench seats and bucket seats DO NOT have the same mounting brackets as XJ seats. Gauge cluster is removed by 4 screws. Gauge cluster during 86' have mechanical-powered gauges. On 87-90 gauges, The speedometer uses a cable, but all gauges 91-92 use a computer cable. Wheelbase: Short Bed 2wd=113.1 4wd=112.9 (18 gal tank) Long Bed 2wd=119.6 4wd=119.4 (16 gal [longbed, opt shortbed] 23.5 gal [opt longbed; standard from 1989) Dimensions: Overall length was 179.3" for shortbeds, 194.0" for longbeds Overall curb height was 63.7" for 2wds, 64.7" for 4wds Track width was 57" with the 15x6 rims, 58" with the 15x8s Body width at the rear flares was 71.7" Length of inside of box at the floor was 73.7" sb and 88.5" lb Width of box at the floor is 55.3" for both sb and lb Width between wheel wells is 43.8" Box depth is 16.4" Engines 2.5L I4 TBI (fuel injected) - 117 hp @ 5000 rpm, 135 ftlb @ 3500 rpm - used in 86 and updated in 87-90 to 121hp (2.5L became MPI in 91 and was rated for 130hp @ 5250 and 149 ftlb @ 3250) GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm - used only in 86 Italian VM 2.8L Turbo Diesel - 140 hp, 236 ft lb torque - used in overseas MJs 2.1L 4 cylinder Turbo Diesel - 85 hp, 132 ft lb torque. 4.0L I6 EFI "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm - used 87-90 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO" (High Output) - 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm - used in 91-92 Transmissions Manual Transmissions AX4 - 4 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used 86-92 with 2.5L I4 and 2.8L V6 engines and 2.8L turbo-diesels T4 & T5 - 4 & 5 speed manual - manufactured by Borg Warner - used only in 86 with 2.5L I4 and 2.8L V6 engines AX5 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 2.8L V6 and 87+ with 2.5L I4 AX15 - 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin - used with 4.0L I6 engines Automatic Transmissions Torqueflight 904 - 3 speed automatic - used only in 86 with 2.8L V6 and 2.5L I4 engines and 2.8L turbo-diesels AW4 - 4 speed automatic, electronically controlled - manufactured by Aisin - used from 87-92 (87-92 models include a Power/Comfort button that adjusts the shift points, also known as a towing package; all transmissions came with the towing package and came with a transmission cooler; 88+ models used Power/Comfort switch for off-roading) Transfer Cases The transfer cases used are all chain driven with aluminum housings. NP stands for "New Process" which is the brand, if you will. NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 ratio low range - used 86 NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-92 NP228 - "Select-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.6:1 ratio low range - used 86 NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-92 Driveshafts Front Driveshaft - On 86-87 MJs (NP207 t-case) the front shaft is a "GKN" style shaft. On 87-92 MJs (NP231/242 t-case) the front is a "double cardan" two-piecedriveshaft with a CV joint at the transfer case end. Rear Driveshaft - The rear is a one-piece shaft with standard u-joints at both ends. The slip yoke is located on the output shaft of the transfer case. On 86-92 models, the yoke slides in and out of the transfer case and is lubricated by the ATF fluid internally. Axles Front Axles Dana 30 high pinion - reverse cut - 27 spline, 1.16" diameter shafts, 7.13" ring gear - used 86-92 (all axles are vacuum disconnect, and have 5-260x u-joints) Rear Axles AMC-20 - 29 Spline, one piece axle shafts, 8.875" Ring Gear; Metric Tonne axle in 86. Dana 35 non c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 86-89 Dana 35 c-clip - 27 spline, 1.18" diameter shafts, 7.58" ring gear, 2.62" axle tube - used 89-92 Dana 44 non c-clip - 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts, 8.5" ring gear, 2.75" axle tube - used 87-89 on some, (not all) MJs equipped with towing package. (note for D44's: All MJ's equipped with the stock D44 come with the Metric Ton Package) All rear axles are made of a spring under axle design. Gearing 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission Cooling Systems Open style - any normal cooling system used today. Opposite of closed style described below. Closed style - has no radiator cap and utilizes a pressure bottle. This style cooling system was used in 87-90 MJs and XJs. Airbags No airbags during Comanche timeline. Trim Levels 86 - Custom, X, XLS 87 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, SporTruck 88 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 89 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 90 - Base, Pioneer, Chief, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 91 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck 92 - Base, Laredo, Eliminator, SporTruck Production Numbers MJ (4x4 only) SWB/LWB 1986 23,251/xxxxx 1987 6,199/6,685 1988 6,895/9,167 1989 5,354/5,021 1990 3,283/2,129 1991 5,188 (TOTAL) 1992 3,142 (TOTAL)

I can give some simple advice that will give you some answers. 1) ax4 or ax5........simple answer....is there a 5th gear.....if not ax4 if so go to 2) 2) Now we know it is a 5 speed....2 were available.....lay under the truck and have a look at the tranny.....does it have a thick plate(about 3/4") that seems to separate the front of the trans from the rear? Google a picture of an AX5 or AX15 and you will see the plate I mean. If yes....it is an AX....if no it could (and again I say could) be a BA. Now to the rear end......A picture here would be helpful......Look on the bolts that hold the rear end cover on.....is there a tag on one of them? Now some people would tell you to jack it and rotate the tire and count the drive-shaft revolutions....I would go with the 2 birds with one stone method.......lets do some investigating and maintenance at the same time. Go down to your favorite auto parts store and get 2 quarts (liters) of gear oil (75w 90 ??) and a tube of RV silicone At home (jack it and put on stands if you don't have the clearance) put a pan under the diff....loosen the bolts pry the pan a bit at the bottom till the fluid runs out then remove the pan. Now (with a tire or the drive shaft rotate the diff....there will be a number stamped on it write down all you see. Clean the diff cover (now would be the time to add some paint if you want) apply silicon and reinstall.....let sit for a bit the add your fluid until it reaches the add hole. Ok now with the numbers.....either post them or just do simple math.....it will not be stamped .....3:73 or 4.10 it will have the numbers of the crown and pinion teeth stamped in....simple division divide the larger by the smaller and that will give your ratio.

First I should have said it is a 2.5 AX5 2WD 4:10 Believe it or not that was the price. As far as what was wrong with it.... it was all UV and time related from sitting. The sun had caused the glue to release on the rear view mirror and the headliner........both had to be reglued The tires, though they looked great as you walked up to them (still had the new little knobs) were cracked and chalky The paint and stripes (though looking good in the pic) was faded and cracked from the sun. There were a lot of rubber parts (o rings on the slave) hoses and belts that needed changing. Fluids need changing. But all in all obviously nothing to cry about. Kijiji even supplied me with the 31" BF's and the aluminum rims as well as a 4 speaker kenwood deck so (not to rub it in but to blow my own horn) after the repairs and slight upgrade. I am still under the $800 Mark :banana: But more upgrades will be added...... . :MJ 1: . (already have a 88 cherokee laredo donor waiting to sacrifice it life for the team) :thumbsup:

Fair enough :thumbsup: Still looks like some nice scenery to me........ Google Winnipeg......I don't have to go to a mountain to find that kind of snow.......just to the driveway.... . :MJ 1: .

I like the stance, any lift in the rear? How was it driving around town and on the highway? No..... never touched the rear

This beauty went on KIJIJI at 9 am I took off work and drove out and bought it by 11. $300 Fits in nice with the other jeeps in the drive. Originally came with a cap (nice one with screened in venting windows) that I took off but put on from time to time, and the original Mj rally wheels with caps. Here is the best part....it had been sitting for 10 years had 87,000 original kms (54,000 miles)

No I have lots of power,,,,but again mine is geared lower. If you can get away with out the lift great ( I installed V8 ZJ coils in the front for extra clearance. Sits nice now.

I guess I can count myself lucky....up here all we have to get passed is a "safety" right at initial registration. No smog concerns at all, the only real emission concern is if you have an intact operational muffler. Any engine mod (intake or otherwise) is of no concern as long as it poses no risk to the list of requirements for the Safety. I guess that is the trade off you have to pay for the beautiful sights and sunshine down there. We get off easy.....but in return we have to worry about negotiating 4' high snow drifts (no worry.. . :MJ 1: . ...hammer down)....and if the Jeep will start at -50 :thumbsup: As a side, in making this post, I was just trying to help out other MJ owners in a positive way....if this simple "Free" mod even adds 1/2 a HP or 1/3 of a MPG......too me it is worth it, successful and priceless :thumbsup:

I have 31 x 10.5 x 15 BFG AT's that I like. I am running 4.10's and both in town and on the highway it doesn't feel under-powered. The only thing will be you might need a little lift for clearance

I guess you missed the point of the post every pony counts........especially ones you get cheap and easy :thumbsup:

So the point of this post was to say.........you have no knowledgeable input of the topic..... :thumbsup: good job

Well send your info to K&N and all the other companies that at selling the cone style cold air intakes for $250 + i am sure that it would have the same effect it had on me. :thumbsup:

Hit a JY there are tons of YJ's XJ's and ZJ's that use the same set up. You should be able to pick up the tube (and air box if needed) for less than the cost of a repair :thumbsup:

Well drilling the holes would do the same job as far as air flow for sure. Up here I don't need to worry about passing an emissions test but my real goal in putting on the 50% mesh was to try to keep out as many of the flying critters as I could while still maintaining max air. :thumbsup: And yes the restriction plate was removed (on the 87 it is a plate operated by a vacuum pod that closes to let warm air in off the manifold during colder months) (On my YJ the screen is larger and covers as much area as your hole pattern) Noise was never a concern to me this 2.5 is quieter that all my 4.0's ( especially the one with a header and a straight pipe...... :brows: )