Oizarod115

you're not going to machine it at your house, right? why not toss it in the bed, run it up to the machine shop and ask their opinion.

renix to HO isn't really that bad, you just need ALOT of parts from both if yuo're really interested in it i can probably help you with most things since i just did this (89-97) the most expensive bit is going to be adapting the TPS to the HO throttle body. ~100 bucks from hesco or a jerry-rigged solution that i'm not proud enough of to display publicly but works fine on my truck. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17821

so now you're getting a JEEP ax-15/231 combo for 75 bucks? thats a pretty sweet deal. round here you can get a shop to bench build that manual under 500 bucks. and you'd still be far ahead at 575 with a new (rebuilt) transmission!

but if you could get a little toyota diesel and put in front of it and put all THAT in your truck you'd be golden :idea: :wavey:

that's a rather pricey diff cover yuo've got there, i think those go for ~90 bucks.

the wattage on the bulb doesn't really matter, that's just the style bulb you use. we've been testing cars this way for years at the shop i work at. it definitely does not kill computers on jeeps, fords, volvo's, dodges (thats all the ones i've got first hand experience with) can't speak for everything but i find it highly unlikely you would kill the computer this way

can't be 86, looks short-bed to me. (or maybe my eyes are slippin)

cheap fix... pay for a plane ticket, i'll fly to TX you pick me up, we drive it back to ga.

Noid lights can be made cheap by the home mechanic! get a 5w tag bulb, (small push in bulb) bend the tabs down from the glass base of the bulb so you have two prongs sticking out, un-plug injector, plug in bulb (make sure its plugged in the contacts) hit the key and watch for flashing bulb :idea:

i wonder if the zj disk is similar in size to the wj? if so yuo may be able to run wj calipers/pads and zj rotors (just for the sake of being complicated.)

makes mathematical sense. a 33 is 15% larger than a 28.5 (235/75/15) and 3.07x1.15=3.55, then consider that most trucks came factory with 215s not 235s and it leaves you with 3.73s (that and the fact that the tires weigh more.) but in reality the gear choice depends on what you're doing. if you wan't good fuel economy and plan on driving 15k+ a year in the truck or doing any highway time you want to go numerically lower (3.73s or so) if you're planning on driving it 5-10K a year and don't foresee any long-distance trips in it, you'll like the power and feel of 4.10s, if you're planning on straight offroad, go ahead and shoot low (numerically high) for the 4.56-4.88s you'll have tons of low end grunt, accelerate like a bat-outta-hell and it'lll be easier on the clutch offroad.

i haven't had the cahnce to go up a ramp, but i'm sure it would do well, my skinny 33s tuck nicely! even still, i bet it wouldn't beat your score lol. :cheers:

you need to be absolutely sure the junky bottle isn't losing pressure, ANY pressure loss on that truck will cause overheating quickly, bad cap and or bottle, i had a new one from MOPAR that wouldn't seal in under a year

nvm turns out there are some 2wd 4.0s in the JY :cheers:

Looking for a buddy, need an HO (91+) flywheel (not flexplate) i know theyre all over ebay but he's on a tight budget if anyone has one laying around they can put a price on! :cheers:

the shake with down on power, could the truck be misfiring, and getting the transmission to kick-down and some more rpm covers it up or clears it out? or is it definitely a driveline/wheel-speed related vibration?

since this thread has been solved i'll add on to it, my truck has had the rear prop valve bypassed and it ate a set of mopar shoes in <20k miles. doesn't that seem a bit excessive? (it was never driven with the e-brake on, lol) most vehicles don't need rear brakes for 80-100K miles, is it the prop valve mod's that cause the rear brakes to wear so quickly?

how tough is that L bracket? might consider boxing the sides looks like a nice setup other than that i've been pondering how to make my own too.

my problem with the locks from the store is you don't get a glove box door lock to match :dunno:

fuel injected 5.0Ls you're looking for a yellow 19lb/hr injector Sweet Thank you. i added a link to the site i bought them, the mustang style are a little better flowing than the cheaper ones are

fuel injected 5.0Ls you're looking for a yellow 19lb/hr injector http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/jeep

thats a pretty good price, i got a set of ford 5.0L injectors (correct flow lb/hr) from five-o motorsports for somewhere in the 200$ range a few years ago so 105$ is a good price for a set of 6 and you're welcome to run it rich if you want to but there's probably another problem you could chase down and get it hammered out straight

thanks! :USAflag:

sooo, the slave cylinder is leaking?

that looks like maybe 2000$ truck, only if its rust free, he didn't mention anyyything about rust in jersey... RUH ROH. these people are on DOPE!