Oizarod115

yeah, universal help section park light sockets are most likely the cure for your lit up turn signals. fixed mine, they both did it at some point. (10-20$ and 1-2 hours tinkering around in the driveway, not difficult) the part-time light is becuase the front-axle disconnect is not disconnecting whether it be due to a bad vacuum switch, a stuck shift fork or stuck vacuum unit. the switch is in the front axle not the transfer case so you are not damaging anything to drive like this, just the aggravating light.

x2 gotta go back over what you just messed with first.

check the switch in the transfer case to see if all the moving around didn't just speed up a pre-eminent failure.

Something like that yeah, It would be best to get a new pressure plate but since you obviously don't mind dropping the transmission you could put it together with yor original one and se if it works. You shouldn't be able to spin the clutch disk once the pressure plate is bolted up, try stickin your alinment tool in it and spinning

oh yeah, the renix manifolds REALLY don't line-up to the head AT ALL. i don't know how or why it worked. but it did. probably down on power but since my clutch was going out, and now it's lifted i really can't tell a difference.

i think i have the answers you're looking for... the PO of my truck swapped in a 97 motor (not knowing that the intake/exhaust was different) and it ran just fine. however when i found out it was wrong i began swapping things around and fixing it up correctly. in order to put a late-model 4.0L in your truck while retaining the renix fuel injection you will need a BUNCH of stuff -HO fuel lines (can be spliced with your own underneath the truck) -HO intake (preferably 99-01 just because) -HO fuel rail (i used a 91-95 one don't know if it matters) -HO exhaust manifold and intermediate pipe -and either adapt your throttle body to the ho intake with a magic spacer or adapt your TPS to the HO throttle body -swap over a bunch of sensors, figure out how to keep the wiring for the ECT and Knock sensor off the exhaust -late-model power steering pump/lines/brackets. (IIRC you use the renix return line and cut it to fit, and the HO pressure line) -figure out or ask me when the time comes and i'll figure out which belt length i used (no belt for a cherokee will fit, available commonly at any parts store, just not for a cherokee, ordered by length)

like said, my boss has completed a 4.0L into his 2.5 97 tj and he had to replace damn near EVERYTHING. tons of wiring, a cluster swap, a fuel tank/sending unit. nightmare and not worth it for the power. a 5.3 GM v8 would be PERFECT swap candidate.

Yes the old coolant did stink really bad when I drained it. doesn't necessarily mean its the head gasket, the old coolant could just be reallly funky, how's the new stuff smell, and how long does it take for the engine to heat up when started and idling? if it heats REALLY fast you may be getting exhaust in the coolant

i don't know if the two will work together or not, that's where my knowledge base runs out bud! you will have to run the flywheel for your truck otherwise it won't start. but i don't know if the pressure plate from the tj will work, you may need a clutch kit for an 87-90 model and then use your own slave.

does the coolant STINK reallly really bad with tthe cap off? bad motors and head gaskets generally have a terrible smell to them.

the pressure plate should not fit flat without the bolts in it. you should have to pull it down against the flywheel with the bolts, (almost abusive) if it just fell right on then it might be incorrect this is basically because it should be engaging the clutch as soon as it gets tightened down, then the slave presses on it and it releases the clutch.

nah, i just meant that the clutch should be engaged even if the hydraulics are all screwed up. did the pressure plate have to get pulled up with the bolts or did it just fall on nice and easy?

i wasn't kidding htat the clutch disc can be installed backwards, and it won't work. the clutch should be engaged with the master cylinder REMOVED from the truck so if you don't have engagement at all then youve got a problem does it make any noise or try to move at all?

we need to know which 5 speed you have because 89 was a cross-over year. if you have the puegot then yes it will fit if you have the AX15 then no it will not fit.

should be an easy breezy 1-2 hour job, you will need a helper to work the clutch pedal as you bleed the air out, just like a brake system.

you should be able to get a clutch slave/master from the dealer thats pre-assembled and bled, just bolt it in the truck and ride. if your truck does not move at all with the transmission in gear and the clutch released then you've got bigger problems than a bad master or slave. could possibly have a backwards clutch disc or somethign else silly going on inside the bellhousing. i would suggest getting the pedal to feel right before pulling the transmission though, that way you get one problem solved at a time.

if you REALLY want to lower it i would use an explorer 4x4 v8 leaf pack (1" or so drop from stock) and if that isn't enough a stock cherokee shackle out back to lower it about another 1"

ive heard just about EVERY front end component has been replaced but havent heard a thing about the control arms. if they are stock then you DEFINITELY have some problems. 20 year old bushings in those control arms is probly the problem. if you are running a stock or similar to stock track-bar then you shouldn't use a drop pitman arm. the pitman arm and the track bar need to be parallel to each other. you could have extremely out of balance tires, a bad steering link, or bad control arms, all of this in conjunction with a poor alignment can cause death wobble

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available??? What fluid would you suggest? 10w30 is the suggested fluid for an ax15 right now, actually. i'm running a standard off the shelf 10w30 in my truck since i didn't want to pour 50$ worth of high-end fluid in a 20$ transmission if it turned out to be no-good. lots of companies like redline and royal purple make manual transmission fluid, but i don't know if they're the sort that will eat the synchros in our super-picky/ancient transmissions.

definitely try cleaning the NSS, its probably fine!

most of the intake kits i've seen re-use that hose unless you know of some that do come with it (I'm out of touch) check the junkyard for sure, should be cheap

you probably won't get any performance out of a simple muffler/tailpipe; there's a good likelyhood of your header being cracked where the pipes come together (also where the egr comes off on renix models) the addition of an aftermarket performance header MIGHT give some uumph but i still doubt it. what kind of brakes are you talking abuot? just some upgraded rotors and pads? or caliper/knuckle swaps and rear disc brakes? the most bang for your buck on braking is going to be a 96 cherokee brake booster or a WJ (unsure on the year) brake booster. and/or a rear proportioning valve bypass, and some rear disc brakes. i wouldn't waste the money on "high performance" rotors and pads, just buy a quality brake pad and some made in USA rotors and they will work just as well, the downfall in our brakes is the size and the brake booster.

if the pump is good you can zip the line off the fuel filter, give the pump 12v and wait til it runs out of fuel... might take a while if its full maybe 30 minutes? I'm not sure but thats what i'd do if it didnt have much in it.

renix does have an idle screw you're not really supposed to move it but its there, and it is adjustable if needed.

everything is commonly available... not sure on 4cyl that MIGHT be external slave (easy) but a 6cyl is DEFINITELY internal (not that bad.) transmission in a jeep is really no big deal, first timer with the necessary tools could do it in a day