TrailReadyMJ

Header = exhaust manifold. In fact the term header is more correct in our application, the stock exhaust uses a header. A "header" is a tubular exhaust manifold. A standard "manifold" is cast, and usually more of a log shape with less flow.

:agree: If they won't let you have just the parts you need for less, make sure you can get your money's worth! They probably don't have $250 in the whole jeep, and they'll get at least that just out of the scrap metal once crushed. That especially high if you have to pull the parts too! I tried the stock shocks above the axle... for a minute... but if you plan to wheel it, they will severely limit wheel travel! Next I just welded brackets to the axle and used longer shocks: Then when I did my 8.8 swap I ended up completely relocating mine, so the shocks are not the limiting factor when flexing off-road. By in-boarding the top mounts, they only travel half as much for the given amount of wheel travel. Note that this does create more sway, but I used pretty stiff shocks and it rides great. With the shocks at this angle, the dampening is reduced greatly, therefore the stiff shocks don't ride so stiff. I may have a bit too much of an angle on them though, and will probably reduce the angle a bit when I have to change shocks again. Flexes good, and feels very well balanced! Same spot, two angles. Notice the front and rear wheel travel is about equal.

One thing I would like to add about this is to check your motor mounts before/while you replace the manifold! These manifolds like to develop cracks, but a bad motor mount is the most common cause I have personally ran into (next to submerging them in water when hot). The bad mount creates a lot more movement of the engine, thus pulling back and fourth on the manifold. Since the exhaust is more or less holding it in place, this eventually creates cracking on the manifold, usually on the back tube. In general, if a non-moving part goes bad, there is usually another reason for it. Just something to lookout for.

Yes... they did. The rear wheel cylinders never changed, same part number for ALL year XJ and MJ, 84-01! The front calipers did go through a change in 1990, but that was before the dual diaphragm booster was installed in 96. There are NO worries with this swap whatsoever! I did it on my old 90 XJ with nothing but positive results. It's also a very common swap and has been done many times. No one has ever complained after doing it. At the same time, I agree it will not be a fix to your current problem, and is only considered an upgrade, not a fix. I still say take a look at the rear adjustments! If the pads aren't tight enough, they will require excessive travel to engage, thus the cylinder needs more fluid than the MC pushes, resulting in a soft pedal. These can be manually adjusted with a flat screwdriver through the slot on the backing plate (below the axle tube, it should have rubber grommet in it). A service manual should be able to describe this procedure in better detail than I, but post up if you need help. And I wish you the best of luck with your financial situation.... and they say the recession is over :shake: :mad:

Something is definitely off then, with the weight of the V8 in the bed, it should still stop normally. I have had mine loaded down with firewood (locust logs, weighing more than a couple AMC V8s), and only took a little more than normal to stop it. That was also with 33s. Are you running cheap pads and shoes? Good ones will make a difference! And again, are you sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted? This could explain ALL of your problems. Even if there are new parts, it doesn't mean the self adjusters are self adjusting. I will add that I now run rear discs, and it stops even better. The stock brakes aren't bad, but there is almost always room for improvement. I also have a 96 booster and MC in my garage just waiting on me to install it. How are you applying more pressure than they ever intended when THEY are the ones that switched to these boosters? Your not really applying a lot more pressure than you can with the original parts anyway, it's just much easier to press the pedal, making for a much more comfortable and responsive feel.

:agree: I personally think bushwackers look funny unless your running a 35" or larger tire. Not to mention, unless it's a mall crawler, they like to get ripped off on the trail. If your looking to trim the fenders a bit, you can re-use the stock flares. There will be a little gap along the lower body lines, but it doesn't look bad. Many have also had good luck with two sets of rear TJ flares trimmed to fit. They are larger than our MJ flares, but not as ridiculous as the bushwackers. Here is a pic of my old XJ with relocated stock flares. Of course now I don't even run flares! (passes inspection in my state, may vary!). I only trimmed what I needed to for the 35s. They are cut and rolled under at the lip. But again, 31s should fit without rubbing the fenders, just the LCAs at full lock (if running stock wheels/backspacing)... That is unless off-road with your swaybar disconnected, but if your bumpstops are correct, it won't matter here either. Worse case, you can throw a couple extra stock isolators in front as a "leveling kit" to match the rear to get a bit more clearance without trimming.

Looks like a clean truck, nice find!

:agree: Also the jack could slip causing a disaster! According the Firestone website, they make a Destination MT in a 235/75/15. This would be your best choice with the 3.07s. I will add these are good tires! I ran a set of 33s, and they lasted around 70K miles and never let me down (rotated very often!). I wasn't easy on them either! Took me through Tellico (r.i.p.), Uwharrie, Callantee, etc... etc... without a stumble. If they made a 35", I would have got them for the MJ! I will also add that these, at least the 33s, run pretty true to size. They were larger than friends 33" pro-comp MTs and BFG MTs for example.

JCR off-road used to make a rear bumper, and they still sell the brackets. You could try to contact them to see if they can make more, or have one tucked away somewhere??? I ran without a rear bumper while I was building mine, and all I could think about was some idiot rear ending me. If you get snow, a rear bumper in winter is a good idea. These beds are getting hard to find!

Yes' these are LIGHT trucks! Remember these are uni-body trucks, and they actually weigh less than a full frame wrangler! A 4.0 TJ has a curb weight of 3229lbs. A 4.0, 4x4, MJ has a curb weight of only 3090Lbs! A 2009, 4dr cobalt ls, with auto trans has a curb weight of 3216, so it actually weights MORE than an MJ!!! I have had mine on scales at the steelyard, and with all current mods (heavy bumpers, rockers, 35" swampers, loaded toolbox, etc...) and me in the cab (180lbs), it still only weighs 4100Lbs. I had it loaded down to 6520 going in! :eek: Poor truck, at least it was short trip! It handled it pretty good though considering I had about a ton in the bed! Remember, they have had to add a lot of extra weight to vehicles in general over the years due to safety requirements, and other various reasons such as quieter interiors. In general, 80s vehicles are known to be tin cans! They used thinner steel compared to older vehicles, FSJs for example, but didn't have all the extra bracing and plush, quiet interiors, they do today.

I agree, you may actually have the elusive stock 4.56s, but it's more likely to be 4.10s. I'm not sure if they ever put 4.56s in a 2wd :dunno: If you pull the cover, there will be numbers stamped in the ring gear. This will either have the ratio, or the tooth count on it. For the tooth count, just divide the larger number by the small to get the ratio. If you don't know when it was done last, it would be a good idea to pull the cover to change the gear oil anyway.

Almost every time I use a reman MC it seems like I go through a few bad ones before I get a good one. If they miss one little burr when honing the cylinder, it will cause a defect. Another thing you may want to check is the rear brakes. If the pads aren't adjusting correctly, or the wheel cylinders are bad, it can create the same symptoms.

To change it! Who knows how old and nasty that gear oil may be. Just pull the cover, get the ratio, reseal with RTV, and fill with fresh gear oil. Should be no need to pry on the cover, just hit it sideways with a rubber mallet, or hammer and block of wood. This will break the seal without damaging the sealing surfaces. Just keep a bolt in the top of the cover (pretty loose) to keep it from flying off making a mess.

On the aussie site, just click on lockers at the top of the page, or just clock here, lol. http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/lockers.html Looks like they are out of stock on the D44 at the moment, but that happens often with them because they sell out. For the lock right, there is an applications button in red on the left of the page.

I'm currently running a lock-right in front and limited slip in the rear, and it's a great combo if you do a lot of street driving. An auto locker in the rear isn't that bad, especially with an auto trans, but it will let you know its there at times (although my posi does too when its slick out, even the occasional bark when giving gas around a sharp turn when dry!).

Thanks for the kind words man. Hopefully I can get the gears soon, things keep popping up preventing me from doing so. I miss my 4x4! Will be a necessity before long though, winter is just around the corner and if anything like last and I would be screwed in 2wd!

I have had good luck with both Lock Right and Aussie. Detroit used to make a "quick lock", but they had problems (inferior materials). No experience with the spartan. You can find lock rights in about any 4wd catalog or website. http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/lockright.html Aussie lockers here, and can order from website: http://www.aussielocker.com/

There are many different variations of lockers out there, but as mentioned, they all do the same basic thing by giving equal power to both wheels. They basically provide the same function as a spool, but allow for some differentiation to make for more friendly driving, similar to a posi but stronger (a posi will slip if for example you pull a tire off the ground). This is probably the MOST effective modification you can do to a 4x4. I've seen locked jeeps on 31s go more places than with open diffs on 35s! As far as locker types, you basically have two choices. Selectable such as ARB, OX, eaton, etc... or Automatic such as Detroit, Lock Right and Aussie The lock Right and Aussie are the cheapest, and called "lunchbox lockers". These use the current carrier and replace the spider gears. These are the cheapest and easiest to install. Others such as the Detroit, ARB, etc.. are full carrier replacements and require backlash adjustment for the gears. They are also much more expensive, but with that comes added strength. I personally have run lunchbox lockers for years with no regrets! The first time you climb up something, pull a tire (or two) off the ground, and keep going, your efforts will be rewarded! Just be careful, you can easily get into trouble since you can go where you couldn't before This is the best example I could find. I was able to keep going up this without even spinning even though my wheel is off the ground. (in my old XJ, front locker, rear spool) Ended up here before a broken front axle shaft caused my buddy to break out his winch. Small joint axle shafts + 33s + locker + skinny pedal = :doh: Doesn't help that I was plowing dirt with my windshield either! I miss beating on that thing!

Check your TPS sensor. This is the most common cause of high idle at start up. Probably just needs adjusting. I just went through the same thing. If it was a vacuum leak, it's doubtful to be an intermittent issue. If the MAP is bad, your more likely to have a low/rough idle. These would also cause problems the whole time, not just at start up.

I'll try to help clear some things up, but may end up adding to the confusion :D There are really only 3 bolt in front axles: HP Dana 30 found in all MJs and pre 00 XJs (most older models have 2 piece passenger shafts with vac disconnect) LP Dana 30 found in 00-01 XJs and most TJs, and ZJs. LP "Dana 44" found in Rubicon TJs. The Rubicon D44 is not a true D44. It still uses D30 outers, and retains the unit bearings. They gave it a D44 center so they can advertise it as a D44. IMHO this axle is not worth it unless you can get it cheap! IIRC these all had 4.10s and a factory locker. The LP30 isn't even worth looking at. The HP 30 will by far be the most common, and your best choice. Gearing ranged from 3.07 to 4.56 (although 4.56s are extremely rare. I am pretty sure they only came on 4cyl autos with tow package). 3.55s are almost standard in 4.0 auto XJs and MJs. A LP44 will be slightly stronger than a HP30, with emphasis on "slight", and really not worth the effort in most cases. The rear axle has been covered, but to add to the non-bolt in list, don't forget the explorer 8.8s. This is a relatively easy swap, and if from a 96+, you get disc brakes in addition to the 31 spline axles. If you have any questions on this swap, I have done several and would be happy to provide any info you need. As far as high pinion vs. low pinion, here's the breakdown. If you look at the teeth on a ring gear, you will notice a flat side, and an angled side like this |\ . The flat side is the "drive" side of the gear, while the angled side is the "coast" side. When a low pinion axle is used in the front, you will be driving on the coast side of the gear while moving forward. The coast side is roughly 30% weaker than the drive side due to the deflection created by the angle of the tooth. With a HP axle in front, the reverse cut gear pattern allows for proper rotation, and uses the drive side while moving forward. There really aren't many HP rear axles for these reasons, although a hi9 conversion for a ford 9" is HP and variations of HP Dana 60s have appeared in the aftermarket.

:agree: Looks like the washer fluid hose to me too.

Well, it appears you are doing everything right. It seems there is either a high pressure leak, or a line is soft and expanding. If you have a helper, get them to pump the brakes with the engine running while you reinspect the soft lines for expansion and check everywhere for leaks. Problems may show themselves under high pressure that you can't re-create without the booster. Didn't pop in my head earlier, but have you checked the rear brakes? Is it possible your rear brakes are worn, or not self adjusting properly? Are the cylinders in good shape? Worn, or non adjusting shoes can cause over expansion of the wheel cylinders. I ran into this several years ago in my old XJ and experienced similar symptoms. The pedal would get pretty firm with it off, and almost to the floor when running. I replaced the cylinders, shoes, and springs and the problem was solved. Of course leaking cylinders would also cause issues, and may not be spotted right away without removing the drum.

Cool, let us know how they work out

A few questions just to confirm your situation... How did your brakes feel before you replaced the front lines? Did you bleed everything (including rear) until new fluid came out? Did you bleed them in the order you listed them? (RR, RL, FR and FL) How firm does the pedal get with the engine off? If it just feels as it normally does when running, it's not enough. It should be stiff enough you can barely push it down with the engine off. The only thing that happens when you start the engine is it provides vacuum to the booster. There really isn't anything else that changes other than the power assist from the booster. It is also a direct link between the pedal, through the booster, to the master cylinder. Also, make sure one of your soft lines isn't defective and bloating under the pressure. This could explain a hard pedal when off, but soft when running due to the extra force provided by the booster. It may just be weak enough that it doesn't expand until it reaches high pressure.