beaterheep

so the damn jeep started running like crap 2 days ago. anything over 1/8 of the gas pedal and it popped through the intake stumbled and surged under load. but if i pushed the clutch in it still revs up just fine. replaced the fuel pump, replaced the fuel filter,replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires are fine, regulator is dry-- no gas in the vac line so that tells me its still good(?) now it idles fine but pops/surges/stumbles under any kind of load. revving it up it pops and stumbled around 1200rpm and clears up over 3000 rpm. I'm sick of freezing my @$$ off in 2ft of snow trying to get the p.o.s. to run right and i kind of need to be able to drive it, right now the plates from the jeep are on my beat @$$ plow truck so i can get around(rotted fenders, squishy brakes and a 2007 inspection sticker...yeah can't drive it on the road much!!) anyone have any ideas??? help!!

i saw the scrambler pickup, like the idea. and the f150 mid 1980s box is light as hell too cause the fenders are fiberglass. thought of using one of those, cutting the wheel openings to the same shape as the manche, and reusing the rear flares off of my bed. oh, and i hate the damn ranger bed everyone keeps posting lol. ive got a set of mid 80 something chevy stepside fenders. just need a box now, theres an old dodge fullsize up the road with an 8ft stepside bed, guy died a few years back, his kid takes care of the place, theyre trying to sell the land for a housing development, i might have to go leave a note saying i want the bed...swap the jeep lettering from my tailgate to that one, narrow it a foot, bob it a foot, perfect...

my bed needs some help and i want to bob a little off the rear of my truck, ive got 3 options i can think of--- 1: narrow stock comanche bed and graft on 80 something stepside fenders 2: 1980 something fullsize stepside bed narrowed to comanche width 3: mazda/toyota/s10/ranger stepside made to fit leaning towards option 2 because those would be the easiest beds to find. no one made much for a stepside bed when it comes to smaller s10/ranger style trucks, newer beds look too modern. thinking a 1980 something bed and swap on a waggy header panel, paint the whole thing 2 tone, use the "jeep" centersection of my tailgate grafted onto the stepside gate...any ideas or opinions would be appreciated!!! pictures too!!!

whats the hydraulic valve go to?

cut the line back by the firewall, slap a dab of epoxy or jb weld on the end of the line. done

my 88 had one really bad spot when i bought it, by the pass front spring hanger, patched it with 3/16' steel, found 2 other spots and patched them too, just plated the last 2' of the rear frame when i built the rear bumper.

your going to want to throw that d35 away and find an 8.25 out of a cherokee. the 35 sucks. running 33's your chances of blowing it up are high. i broke my stock d35 on the street with little 215/70/15 tires, tires spun a little in the rain, grabbed again and pop no more rearend. ive got an 8.25 from a 94 cherokee and i welded the diff and i havent had any problems yet

ive got an arb bumper but the vac can is still there. thinking ill ditch the stupid valve on the heater hose under the hood and see what that does. should help a little, then if need be ill unhook the heater door and just move it manually to hot for now lol

so, why the hell does my heat blow decently hot from defrost, but when i put it on heat it blows barely any warmth? truck can run for hours, defrost is warm but not hot, and heat is barely what youd call "room temperature" it friggen sucks!! any ideas?

why not get one of those military trailers, looks like the back off an m715? or use a stepside off an early 80's or late 70's truck and cut it down to size? just trying to think of something different, stepside beds from the 70's and 80's were kind of generic, unlike the guy who put a ranger bed on his manche....

defrost switch might work, youd be better off using a fog light switch of the power/comfort switch from aw4 manches, ive got a bunch of em here but thats a bit of a drive for a switch lol...

finally wired up the led strobes ive had here for a week. put the tailgate back on, loaded the jeep and the trailer with 85 bucks worth or scrap, next is the trans swap, add 2" front spacers to the coils, new clutch, trim the rear quarters and add to the rear bumper, come spring new rims and 35's. go figure its too damn cold out now...

sams u pull it in worcester, i think its 2 bucks to get in, usually has a nice selection of jeeps

so, ive got an internal slave ax15 from a 95 cherokee, along with the attached 231 t case. it will be replacing the peugot $#!&box and the attached 231 t case. problem is the 95 t case dosnt work, i can get another t case, or is it worth it/easy enough to swap the 95 input shaft into my perfect working 88 t case? also-clutch master/slaves---peugot has a brand new master cyl, can i just splice the line into the ax15 line and use it? ive heard of just using brake line fittings and it works fine, seems like the best solution. clutch--they use the same clutch so as long as my clutch is still good i can reuse it(peugot) and not have to change anything? other then the tcase linkage needing some tweeking(i may just make a custom setup) everything bolts in once i change the pilot bearing correct? I'm doing this swap on my dirt driveway in an unenclosed carport in the friggen winter so i want to make sure ive got everything figured out before i freeze my @$$ off!!

spare parts. you don't need that

like it says, looking to swap a 96 aw4 into my 88 manche, i need the renix era flexplate and torque converter in order for everything to work right, anyone have one, price with shipping to 01007?? pm me!!!

or i use a renix era converter/flexplate and it would work...ideally an ax15 would be best...

crap. how hard is it to swap to the 96 system? whole computer wiring etc etc swap? i don't plan on hooking up the neutral safety switch, crank position sensor is the same, so whats the difference?? i want to keep my renix system and my motor and just put the 96 trans and t case in, whats the difference between the years? i suppose i can always get a flexplate/converter from a 90 and older jeep...

so, here's the deal, my ba-10 has a leaking slave, grinds randomly between gears and hates the 1-2 shift when cold, I'm getting a rusted out 96 cherokee with a mint running motor, newer aw4 trans and 231 tcase for $250 tomorrow. i plan on swapping in the auto trans/231 from the 96, i know ill need the tcu and wiring, running an external cooler, my question is this--a: front driveshafts are the same length in comanches and cherokees correct? b: my original combo was a 4.0 ba-10 d35/d30, i swapped in a 8.25(1" longer snout then the d35 according to the measurements on here) so if i swap in the automatic trans, which takes a 1" longer driveshaft then the manual, my current driveshaft should still fit fine due to the 8.25 i swapped in making up the 1" difference correct? (I'm spring over in the rear and 5" lift in the front)

saved a chevy after it broke 2 body mounts when it slid over on a ledge, couldnt start the truck cause the fan wouldve taken out the radiator. had to drag it forward then push it down off the ledge. the manche crawled all around it like a spider on the wall...

no cat, flowmaster super 44, flex pipe through the bed to a 4ft tall 3" dia. stack with a flapper lol, only did it cause people told me i wouldnt, well, i had a spot of rust next to the drain plug in the front corner of the bed so this gave me an excuse to cut the rust out, and it sounds friggen sweet too, not too loud til about 2000rpm, and if you really get on it its loud as hell...

pm me if the spacers are still available, how are the wheels/tires as well? shoot me a pm as I'm not on here too much--

just make it a flatbed, that bed is done for!!

looked at it, realized i didnt want to be out in the wind and cold doing anything to it, lightbar still needs to be wired, front lights need wiring, belt needs changed, still need to weld on the drivers side rear shock mount. looks nice with the temporary 34's on it though...

driving without the clutch works great if you don't have what happened to me today-replaced the master awhile back and never bled it fully due to a rusted bleeder. it worked fine after a few pumps so i forgot about it, stuck in heavy traffic today and it jammed in gear due to low fluid in the resivior, it finally burped out the last of the air in the system...2 months after i replaced the master... thankfully a guy parked around the corner happened to have some spare dot 3 in his truck...works great now!!